Jumping Actuator + My 99 won't come out of 4x4 on its own [Blinking 4x4 lights]

[BoomSticks]

First, have a video of me jumping my 99 limited actuator, and the pin diagram.

Jumping actuator pins.

Now, the problem.

As you saw, I can jump the pins and it'll move and click in and out of 4x4.

However, once I hook it back up, the 4x4 light doesn't stop blinking, and it'll only make noise switching into 4x4, not out.

I've replaced the front and rear pressure sensors. Tested the vacuum, everything else I can think of.

What next?

Is there a way to open up the actuator housing to maybe clean or lube in there?

[PS- it just sat in a shop for a couple very cold months while we did a motor swap. We didn't touch anything from the bell housing back, and are using the same harness as before.]

 

[chattyT4R]

I am having pretty much the exact same issue, like literally the same just in a 2000. You can open the actuator and clean/lube, but for me that didn’t fix the issue and it’s not very fun putting it back together. I would say if your actuator is working, don’t bother opening it. You would only have to do that if it was jammed imo. Try testing for continuity between pins 1 and 4-6. Pins 4-6 are the limit switches for inside of the actuator that the ecu uses to tell the actuator motor to stop spinning or what position the motor has spun to. 2wd should have continuity between 1-6, 4wd 1-4, and mm 1-5. Me and another member, and now it seems you as well are all having the same problem right now. The other member and I have both tried new computers as well but to no avail. I only have 3 threads started and one of them details my 4wd issues, so if you want to look through that to see if it sounds similiar please do, especially if you find a solution let me know!

 

[BoomSticks]

I am having pretty much the exact same issue, like literally the same just in a 2000. You can open the actuator and clean/lube, but for me that didn’t fix the issue and it’s not very fun putting it back together. I would say if your actuator is working, don’t bother opening it. You would only have to do that if it was jammed imo. Try testing for continuity between pins 1 and 4-6. Pins 4-6 are the limit switches for inside of the actuator that the ecu uses to tell the actuator motor to stop spinning or what position the motor has spun to. 2wd should have continuity between 1-6, 4wd 1-4, and mm 1-5. Me and another member, and now it seems you as well are all having the same problem right now. The other member and I have both tried new computers as well but to no avail. I only have 3 threads started and one of them details my 4wd issues, so if you want to look through that to see if it sounds similiar please do, especially if you find a solution let me know!

Thanks, I'll try those pin continuity combos.

And for my reference if I need it:

Post #10, Feasibility of a "J"-Shift to Multi-Mode Transfer Case Swap

 

[BoomSticks]

4wd troubleshooting

 

[BoomSticks]

2000 4Runner FSM - Printable - Google Drive

 

[BoomSticks]

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/267778-another-4wd-broken-thread-3.html#post3234560

 

[BoomSticks]

TR-50 Inspection (2000 4Runner) One Touch 2-4 Selector System.pdf - Google Drive

 

[BoomSticks]

Anyone have a link for an electronic wiring diagram for a 99-00? At least for the 4x4 system.

It seems like the TC isn't sending the signal to the front to unlock.

We can manually jump the front VSVs to lock and unlock the front.

We can manually jump the TC actuator to lock and unlock the center.

The TC actuator will go into 4HI when the shifter is pushed into 4HI, but the signal telling the TC actuator to go into 2HI just isn't getting through to the TC actuator or front diff/VSVs.

 

[Tinigunner11]

Anyone have a link for an electronic wiring diagram for a 99-00? At least for the 4x4 system.

It seems like the TC isn't sending the signal to the front to unlock.

We can manually jump the front VSVs to lock and unlock the front.

We can manually jump the TC actuator to lock and unlock the center.

The TC actuator will go into 4HI when the shifter is pushed into 4HI, but the signal telling the TC actuator to go into 2HI just isn't getting through to the TC actuator or front diff/VSVs.

Here you go! These here belong to [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]. Just want to give credit where credit is due. I am also going through this same problem with my 2000 Limited.

pushewd by austin jenkins, on Flickr

pushewdp2_0001 by austin jenkins, on Flickr

Here is also a link to the rest of the 4wd wiring. Please let me know if it doesn't work and I can email it to you or anyone else! Again these originally came from [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o_aJaaihSa6ViuF-w9pfRbImD1eDD2lm/view?usp=sharing

 

[TheDurk]

Good work. My hard drive crashed and I lost those scans (I still have the paper manual.) Nice to have them back.

 

[Tinigunner11]

Any update on your issue?

I found the issue with my limited's 4x4 problem. Figured it may help you as well.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...e-issues-blinking-4wd-lights.html#post3161790

 

[BoomSticks]

A small update, my lights are still blinking, but we were able to manually jump the front to unlock it.

The work around I've been using to at least get out on some trails is to pull off the vacuum hoses from the VSV, and putting the front hose on the rear VSV nipple. Can't remember which colors are front and back.

That locks the front, and then when I put the hoses back on in their normal spot, the front unlocks.

The entire time, the front driveshaft is spinning, so I'm assuming that means the truck thinks it's still in center locked 4x4.

The next thing I'm going to do is replace all the transfer case position switches.

I've already replaced the one on the front diff, and the one furthest back next to the actuator.

-->Does anyone have the part numbers for all the position switches I need for this? My google fu is weak today for some reason.

99 limited with AWD button J shifter

The ones I've figured out are:

84222-12010 (already replaced)
84222-60081

[top left t case rear, with pigtail]
[top left t case front, with pigtail]

[top right t case, with pigtail]

[front diff] (already replaced)

 

[Bad Luck]

[MENTION=138238]BoomSticks[/MENTION] Have you pulled all the switches and checked for continuity when closed? There's 2 by the 4wd actuator, 2 on the left top center of the transfer case, 1 on the right top of the transfer case, and 1 on the front differential ADD tube by the ADD vacuum actuator?

 

[4thgen619]

Ok mine is doing the same thing as boomsticks and I have checked all sensors and replaced the ones that weren’t working

 

[4thgen619]

[MENTION=138238]BoomSticks[/MENTION] Have you pulled all the switches and checked for continuity when closed? There's 2 by the 4wd actuator, 2 on the left top center of the transfer case, 1 on the right top of the transfer case, and 1 on the front differential ADD tube by the ADD vacuum actuator?

Mine is doing the same thing as boomsticks did they ever find a solution ?

 

[BoomSticks]

OMFG this adventure is finally done.

We started taking out the position switches and testing them with the meter with the continuity beep.

When we went to grab the connector for the front diff position switch, the harness flipped over and we saw a splice that had come apart.

The second we fixed that splice and plugged the connector back on, the flashing stopped, AWD button worked, and everything else worked perfectly. :banana:

 

[Bad Luck]

OMFG this adventure is finally done.

We started taking out the position switches and testing them with the meter with the continuity beep.

When we went to grab the connector for the front diff position switch, the harness flipped over and we saw a splice that had come apart.

The second we fixed that splice and plugged the connector back on, the flashing stopped, AWD button worked, and everything else worked perfectly. :banana:

I'm glad you got it fixed! Wiring gremlins are some of the hardest things to diagnose!