Just bought a 1st gen

Chikokishi

New member
Questions:

Can someone point me in the right direction for learning about how to lift one of these?

My Gas guage drops off at 1/2 a tank, my oil guage doesnt appear to work.

The button for the back window doesnt work, and the key for the back window works sometimes.

When i rev the engine, the throttle decelerates really slowly, so when i shift the engine revs in between gears.

Thoughts or comments on any of this are appreciated!
 
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For the lift and a lot of general maintance, I reccomend yotatech.com. Also, what engine, transmission, and so on.
 
How much lift do you want? Or better yet, why do you need the lift, what are you going to use it for?
There are quite a few threads on the rear window problem, I think it has been covered pretty well so search some of those up.
For your other questions I would also need to know year, engine and transmission.
 
You have a few choices on how to lift. The best way I reccomend from personal experience is to get some Old Man Emu (OME) rear leaf springs, I would suggest the 2" lift version. These springs are super flexy, very comfortable, built extremely well and only cost me $100 each. You will also need bushings, possibly front pin hangers (from dealership) as they could be corroded/welded together. I also went with the OME greasable shackle which gave me yet another 1/2" height increase. Also you will probably want to get some new U bolts. I picked up the Rancho U bolts for Toyotas and they are great, cheaper than the OME U bolts. And finally, you are going to need longer shocks, there are several good brands that are made for 2" lift applications. I grabbed a set fo KYB MonoMax (from partsgeek) and so far they are pretty good. They aren't Bilsteins or OME but they are good enough for the daily driver/mild off roader use.
Again, for the front you have a couple of choices. You can get an IFS lift kit which looks like a PITA. Or you can get beefier torsion bars that you can supposedly crank on without preloading them too much so that you don't sacrifice ride quality. And then there are ball joint spacers. I just installed a set of BJ spacers on my 1987 this weekend. I don't have much to say about these yet as I slapped them on, took a quick drive then parked it to start an engine rebuild on my friends 20R. I can tell right off that it has a bit more travel and I can hit bumps much harder and notice more flex instead of the soft bottoming that it had before the install. But without an alignment I didn't feel like driving it around too much. The ball joint spacers are 1.5" high and will give you 1.5" of lift. You can relax your torsion bars if they are already cranked up and lose some of that 1.5" or you can go the other way and gain more lift.
Sheesh, I went and typed a whole bunch of stuff...
Let me know if you want any part #'s for the OME stuff or whatnot, I actually posted my price quote in a thread a while back that has all the part numbers for the rear lift I did. I can bump it so you can take a look.

Edit: Hard to say what is going on with your fuel gauge, all I can think of is try to get 12V to the dash wiring and see if it will go all the way up. Your oil guage should be a bit easier, check the passenger side of your engine and see if you have a terminal in the block that is missing a wire. It is either not connected and needs to be put back on, the wire could be all messed up and shorting out or you could have a bad sender in there. Easy fix either way.

Edit2: Here is the price quote for the rear end suspension parts I ordered, only thing missing is the rear shocks and the pin hangers that I picked up from the dealership (like 3 bucks each or so). I actually walked out the door paying $400 even so ignore the price total at the bottom, turns out shipping them to the store price was overquoted and I opted to pick them up from them. If you are anywhere near the place where I bought mine I reccomend these guys 100%.
 

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The fuel gauge is a pretty common problem. It's the sending unit in the tank. Mine does the same thing, top 1/4 works then goes straight to the bottom. At least the low fuel light still works. I have read that the sending unit can be cleaned but I can't confirm that. I figure I will try to clean mine someday and see if it works and if not then I will replace it.
Oil gauge, check the connection at the sending unit, mine was corroded. Cleaned it and it works fine now.
Check your throttle linkage, make sure it is moving smoothly, don't lube it with wd40.
Window button may need to be cleaned as they get lots of crap and coffee falling into them. The relay board for the window is behind the drivers seat behind the panel that the seatbelt is mounted to, sometimes the relays fail. I had a problem with mine and had top re-solder the connections on the board.
You might have other issues with the power going to the window or lubrication in the rear window as well.
Good luck with it. Do some searching about the window as there is a lot of info available on the web about it.
 
I took my car out last night for about a 15-20 mile cruize about. I filled the tank, and after 20 miles the gas guage hasent moved. haha. When i was done driving there was a slight smell of something burning when i got out of the car, but it went away really quick so i couldnt pinpoint it. Discovered that when i try to switch the lights to bright, they actually shut off. Never got my window to work, but the button makes aweful crunching noises when i push it, i think your right about the food. lol. It idles really slow and the engine vibrates sometimes. Found out that the trottle was a backyard mechanic job, looks like htey broke it so they just crimped it back together. There is a small hose under, and just foward of the trottle with a big plastic yellow coloured cylinder at the end of it and on the other side of that cylinder is a small connection, i think it might be a vaccuum leak. I bought a compass for my dash, and i found out my car has a crazy electrical field all over the dash, so i had to put the compas in the middle of my window for it to read right.

Current projects (Ill move this to a different forum next post):

Fixing the brights
Fixing back window
Swapping the studded tires for more road like tires
Installing new radio
Buying/installing speakers and amps
Cleaning it (Previous owner did a terrible job of this)
 
The gas gauge sending unit can be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner if it's not in too bad shape. You have to pull it out and remove it's cover to get to the windings.
 
Discovered that when i try to switch the lights to bright, they actually shut off.

Visit that 4Crawler site for a sweet guide to fixing this. The pics are not that clear (well my combo switched looked a fair bit different) but it does work!!
 
Fuel guage & back window

Under your back seat you'll find a hatch (closer to the pasenger side) that when removed will expose the top of the tank and the sending unit that you need to get at. It is actually the fuel pump and sending unit all together. I replaced mine with another whole assembly (used) and haven't had any more problems. You can try cleaning it but don't be surprised if that doesn't fix it. I suspect the whole thing new from toyota isn't much but I never looked.
As for the back window problem, try this. Have someone hold the button while you push the back tailgate closed. I found this same prob on mine too and was shocked when that actually fixed it. It just isn't closing tight enough and the safety switch keeps the window from working. Who knew?
 
I bought a compass for my dash, and i found out my car has a crazy electrical field all over the dash, so i had to put the compas in the middle of my window for it to read right.



wooo, yer dash is the bermuda triangle! watch out for random things appearing on your dash :)
 
I made it for my 1st gen and one for my Tundra. If you're interested, let me know and I can probably help you put one together. It's all plastic and "Slides Like Butter Baby" but I'll warn you, it ain't cheap.
 
So i was looking under my hood...

1, the accel link to the pedle had broke at one point in it.
2, the cruiz control was disconnected and the shorter pedle like was connected to its port
3. cruiz control was left just hanging out.
4, after realizing this i think "Hmm, i should have a cruiz control inside somewhere"
5, turns out the steering wheel in my car.. isnt for my car. i have no cruiz control on the dash anywhere, but i have the whole kit under the hood... Yay.
 
most 1st gens had a "stick mounted" cruise control. That means all of the Set/Accel/Resume/on/off were all on a stick on the left side of the column. Should have been a short stubby little thing, near the turn signal switch. I think it wasn't til the 2nd Gens that the cruise controls were actually mounted inside the steering wheel.
 
most 1st gens had a "stick mounted" cruise control. That means all of the Set/Accel/Resume/on/off were all on a stick on the left side of the column. Should have been a short stubby little thing, near the turn signal switch. I think it wasn't til the 2nd Gens that the cruise controls were actually mounted inside the steering wheel.

haha yep. I found it! thers def a hole there.

UPDATE:

I fixed the brights (the connections has black on em.. just sand papered it off)
I *fixed* the rear window. the window lock button seemed to be faulty, so i grounded the input wire going into it, and it works fine for now!

Iv also put a 300 watt pioneer amp into it, 2 noname 12" subs i bought at a yardsale, and a Virtual reality (walmart =( ) deck with usb and sd card reading on it. (which is why i got it.. and it was only 80$)

my throttle still likes to stick at 1800 rpm... iono if i should get a stronger spring or what. Eventually i need to get a new accelerator cable, and then a cruiz control multiswitch.
 

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