Amazon sells the OEM for about 90 apiece. With free shipping it's a good price.
Just crossed 160k miles and need another 100k - am i on the right track?
- Thread starter OnTheEllipse
- Start date
Amazon sells the OEM for about 90 apiece. With free shipping it's a good price.
OnTheEllipse
Member
I haven't done much reading up on replacing the steering rack bushings. it's suggested above that I have an alignment done after replacing the lower ball joints and outer tie rods....and the steering bushings? Of course, I'd only like to get an alignment done once.
If I don't get to the steering bushings the same day as the lower ball joints and outer tie rods, will that be a big deal, alignment wise?
If I don't get to the steering bushings the same day as the lower ball joints and outer tie rods, will that be a big deal, alignment wise?
You won't need an alignment after the bushings. It's possible I'm wrong but other people here can sound off. The only reason you need alignment after the tie rod ends is because you fix the alignment by adjusting those and there's no way you get them 100% back on exactly like the others.
If you haven't done the lower ball joints and ends before, doing both those and the bushings in a day is a lot of work. But that depends on your tools and how quickly you pick everything up.
Good luck!
thegipper
New member
Before you mess with the bushings, check them first. Have someone you trust turn it on (in park) with their foot on the brake and parking brake set. Have them turn the wheels back and forth while you get under their and watch the steering rack. If it slightly moves back and forth (like mine) it's fine. If there is a lot of slop, they need to be replaced.
Don't waste money on parts that don't need to be replaced since you have quite a few other things that do need to be replaced.
If the LBJ's and tie rod ends come apart like they should, it doesn't take long at all. If the tie rod end doesn't want to separate, it can be a total PITA. There are several videos on youtube and write ups that will show you the easiest way to do it. It's not rocket science just make sure you do it correctly and torque everything back down to spec. Definitely get an alignment afterwards.
take care
Don't waste money on parts that don't need to be replaced since you have quite a few other things that do need to be replaced.
If the LBJ's and tie rod ends come apart like they should, it doesn't take long at all. If the tie rod end doesn't want to separate, it can be a total PITA. There are several videos on youtube and write ups that will show you the easiest way to do it. It's not rocket science just make sure you do it correctly and torque everything back down to spec. Definitely get an alignment afterwards.
take care
Last edited:
OnTheEllipse
Member
good to know, thanks. i've already purchased them, so I'll just put them in if the job isn't too much of a pain in the ass. sounds like maybe it is.
not super-worried about the price on this stuff....put a grand or so into it is way cheaper than car payments!
OnTheEllipse
Member
Spark plugs and wires - done
Lower ball joints and outer tie rods - done
Man, those old castle nuts were super rusted. It would be a very easy job if it weren't for the rusted cotter pins preventing me from getting a socket all the way down on the nut. I had the pitman puller but not the tie rod puller. That was a big mistake.
Thanks for all the advice and props to those Timmy 4Runner YouTube videos! What a great resource.
Lower ball joints and outer tie rods - done
Man, those old castle nuts were super rusted. It would be a very easy job if it weren't for the rusted cotter pins preventing me from getting a socket all the way down on the nut. I had the pitman puller but not the tie rod puller. That was a big mistake.
Thanks for all the advice and props to those Timmy 4Runner YouTube videos! What a great resource.
