Just curious if it even matters which NGK spark plug to use out of the list?

Just curious if it even matters which NGK spark plug to use out of the replacement list?

I think the original plugs for the 3RZ-FE are Nippon Denso ND K16R-U, gapped at 0.031" (sometimes listed as 0.032") at 14ftlbs (dry, at no anti-seize) torque.

The NGK web site lists suitable replacements as
1. Standard NGK BKR5ES
2. OE NGK BKR5EYA
3. GPower NGK BKR5EGP
4. Iridium NGK BKR5EIX
5 Ruthenium NGK FR5BHX

Pricewise, they are roughly equivalent given there are only 4 of them and they're pretty inexpensive so the question isn't at all about price.

Which works "right"?

Presumably, all the marketing aside, I can't go wrong with OE.
But does anyone have good or bad experiences with the other variants?

(And, yes, I will avoid Bosch at all costs.)
 
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Same question about marketing with the sparkplug wiring loom.

3RZFE wiring loom Toyota Part Number 90919-22387
1. Local Toyota Dealership $150 (out of stock, 1 day away)
2. Camelback Toyota Dealership $83 (in stock, days away)
3. Local Parts Store $42 (in stock)

If I buy it at a parts store, what brand (NGK?) do you generally recommend?
The original owner said the current four wires were put on about a dozen years ago and that they're from a parts store in another state.

The labeling says "Belden Premium 5mm cable SAE Class F-KI".
Does the width or SAE class of coil wires even matter?
 
NGK RC-TE66 Spark Plug Wire Set - Amazon - 30 bucks + shipping. You can get these almost anywhere for 30-40 bucks a set.
 
From another 4 Cylinder lover to another...

Go stock original plugs or NGK. Replace every 30k.

Use anti-seize (light coating) and torque to 20 foot pounds.

Wires might be Napa Premium. Got a pic? Almost as good as OEM. They're fine.

Check those valve lash/clearances.

Enjoy!
 
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From another 4 Cylinder lover to another...

Use anti-seize (light coating) and torque to 20 foot pounds.


Enjoy!

I could be mistaken but I think you are off on the torque spec for the plugs.

I think the number is 14 or 15 foot pounds from memory, pretty sure it's not as high as 20.
 
I think the number is 14 or 15 foot pounds from memory, pretty sure it's not as high as 20.

I put a tiny bit of anti seize gray paste on the threads and some dialectric grease on the rubber so that it won't stick so much when removed.

The plugs were pretty worn so I replaced the plugs and torqued each to a half turn or so.

Then I replaced the wires.

What I don't know yet is how to tell without taking things apart, if I need to check the valve clearances.
 

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I could be mistaken but I think you are off on the torque spec for the plugs.

I think the number is 14 or 15 foot pounds from memory, pretty sure it's not as high as 20.

Correct. FSM 14 foot pounds and dry (from memory)

FWIW... I've been using a bit of anti-seize, sparkplug socket, 6" extension, and torque wrench set @ 20 foot pounds. Set's them right in the 'goldielocks' zone.

That's my interpretation of the 'FSM 14 foot pounds dry'.

HTH
 
...

What I don't know yet is how to tell without taking things apart, if I need to check the valve clearances.

There was a video a while back on this forum with what it will sound like when adjusted to far out.

Will try to find it.

Got lucky: Engine noise? 3RZ experts please help

IMHO... That's a bit too noisy. If that was coming through a mechanics stethoscope that would be better. Want just a little bit of an audible tap. If there's no tap valves are to tight.

Here's another one: Toyota 3RZ-FE Valve Adjustment

Valve adjustment is just kind of a pita on the 4 cylinder because it's buckets/pucks/shims but for long term engine health needs to done. It's a feature. :)

Grab a mechanics stethoscope and start randomly listening to your valve train. After a while you'll pick up on the nuisances.

P. S. For wiring harness I use Napa Premium (with the lifetime warranty). Nicely affordable. No complaints.
 
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Words to at least be aware of, from folks with at least a little experience and data

While I was reading about the corona on the spark plugs in your link and then noticing the corona on my plugs, I just noticed the number 1 plug (on top, where the plugs are in order) is a bit grungy on the insulator but maybe that was from the misfire on cylinder 1.

As I read your helpful link, I found this NGK secret decoder chart which seems to explains the plugs.

I had to ride my bicycle to get the parts and they only had the standard NGK BKR5ES in stock but it seems the only thing I lose are miles given the heat range is the same.
 

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