just found used toyota e-differential

[devldogs55]

I called the local wrecking yard and they have a used Elock Rear diff from Toyota (don't know what year) for $400.00. They will also guarantee i for 1 year from purchase.

My rear diff has a bad ring and pinion. The guy said on the phone that this was a complete Toyota rear diff and would include ring and pinion. Does that sound right?

How do people like their Yota e-diffs?

 

[Leo Ahearn]

'dog, it may help you tremendously to get hold of a Haynes manual for the 4Runner. It has breakdowns in it that show how the pieces fit together.

Quite simply, a boneyard selling a "complete rear end" would not have taken the time to disassemble the rear end, take the ring and pinion out, put it back together, and sell you a rear end without the R&P.

You still need to verify it has the gear ratio that your old one has. Did you do this?

Owning an '01 4 door TRD, I can tell you the e-locker is ideal for the use you described in your other thread. You don't know it is there until you push the button to turn it on, then it's locked.

How the electronics (switch, wiring, 2 hi/4 hi cutout, etc.) associated with the factory installed e-locker work in your truck is beyond my understanding of them. Not sure what it takes to make the factory e-locker lock in your rig. Maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[devldogs55]

I haven't verified it because when I called them back about 3 hours later.. they said they had sold it. Don't know when the next one will be in, but they said they have got and sold quite a few in the last few months.

I was pretty disappointed needless to say.:bash:

 

[hodgepodge79]

Just for comparison, I paid $300 for both a rear e-locker third member (1998 4runner), and a front IFS diff (1992 4runner).

 

[devldogs55]

That's a pretty good deal! I think that since it seems so hard to find these Toyota Electronic Lockers, if I find another entire Elocker 3rd member for around 400 bucks, I'll buy it!

I was reading a writeup I found where a guy ordered one from his local dealership for around 800 bucks!

If that were to happen I would just go with the ARB (which I might even still do). We'll just see what the funds permit.

As my truck is right now, I have a bad ring and pinion in my rear diff.. and I was using it as an opportunity to upgrade w/ a locker. The TRD E-locker was the entire 3rd so it didn't look like I was going to have to buy new ring and pinion gears in addition.

Let me get another thing straight if I can...

If I got a Detroit EZ Locker, it puts together in it's own carrier, and I have the mechanic drop it into my original housing.. correct? Shouldn't be any mods there but I'll have to replace my ring and pinion gears since they're bad anyways.

If I end up going with the ARB, there will be mods, but it comes with carrier as well, and fits into my original but modified housing. Again.. I still replace ring and pinion.

 

[ovrrdrive]

With a V6 auto you probably have 4.56 or 4.88 in yours now. Have you verified your current ratio?

 

[Leo Ahearn]

Devildog55 said, "If that were to happen I would just go with the ARB (which I might even still do). We'll just see what the funds permit. "

I'm new to the 4R but was into Jeeps for a few years. First off, the ARB locker runs about $800 just for the locker. Secondly, you need an onboard air supply to engage and disengage the ARB. Next, it has to be installed, as does the ring and pinion, by someone that knows what they are doing.

The "ARB versus stock e-locker" is like comparing apples and oranges, especially if the main issue you are chasing is a worn R&P.

I'm not sure of OX makers lockers for the Toy axles, but I'll be going with a manually actuated locker like the OX for whatever I build next. ARBs air lockers are subject to blown O-rings, and if an O-ring has to be replace then the rear end has to be torn down and the gears re-set. All it takes is a slight tweak to the housing or axle shaft and an o-ring gets torn. No thanks with the manual locker like the OX on the market.

 

[mith]

For people looking for e-lockers, have any of you considered using a rear axle from a FJ-80? I started considering this a couple days ago, not necessarily for the locker, but I think it's a little wider and a little stronger. I've heard of other people replacing their stock rear axles with FJ-80 rear axles, but haven't really done much research yet to find out how much work would be involved, if it's as simple as unbolting the old and bolting in the new or if it would require more work.

But, I believe e-lockers were a fairly common factory option on FJ-80s, perhaps more than on later model pickups and 4runners.

Plus, it might be a little easier to find components for a '98 FJ-80 rear axle than say, for example, a '86 4runner rear axle.

Like I say, I only started considering it a couple of days ago, and haven't really done much in the way of research yet. I don't have the funds to get a new axle at the moment, but I'm going to have to do something soon; my pinion seal is leaking, I'm thinking of getting lower gears, and I figure if I'm going to have the axle off to do all that stuff and plan on replacing it in the future, I might as well go ahead and do it all now rather than buying parts I'll just have to replace if I swap axles later.

 

[devldogs55]

First off... I have checked the code in my doorjam and it says I have a 4.56 gear ratio.

All I meant when I said I might as well go with ARB was that if I was going to spend money in that range anyways, I might as well. I realize that it is quite different and still more costly. I would expect the whole ARB installation to run me about $1200 - $1500 from what I've been told.

I don't believe OX makes what I want for my Yota.

The stock e-diff is still my first priority, however I am even still considering an automatic locker... mostly the EZ Locker. I just don't have a good feeling about putting it on my daily driver - especially one that sees a lof of snow.

Thank you for all the replies so far, everyone here has been awesome! I think I'm going to like it here - not so sure about my wallet though.

 

[Leo Ahearn]

DD, I put an aussie locker in my '92 YJ rear end.

The good: they are cheap and relatively easy to install. The carrier may need grinding for it to fit, so a dremel is needed along with the ability to flush the rear end out real well to get the iron chips out. It works GREAT offroad, period end of sentence.

The not-so-good: They change the way the vehicle drives. You can get some weird sensations/bucking/noises when making tight turns. If you make a u-turn and apply the throttle before straighting up, the locker tries to lock while it is ratcheting, making things get real interesting. Same for sweeping turns. On and off throttle makes the vehicle change lines somewhat, using up the slack you have in your steering system. According to the local long-time Jeep store worker and Jeeper (Mike @ Predator Offroad, Colo spgs CO) the locker has a service life of 20-30k miles due to wear caused by the ratcheting. Also they are viewed as weak compared to the "real" lockers and can be a point of failure on the Dana axles. I have not seen one for a Toy axle so cannot say if this holds true or not, but a spider replacement type locker is going to have to be rather small diameter.

Would I do one again? YES, but in the FRONT, not the back. In the Jeeps with a 2 piece axle this means that the front driveshaft now spins, but this is not a big deal. As long as you have one locker, then you'll make forward progress when a wheel gets off the ground. Since my '86 has manual front hubs, I may look into a front locker for the IFS.

HTH with your decision and glad to see you are up-to-speed on the air lockers. I drove a really well built YJ that had them and they work nice, plus the onboard air is nice, but I'd put mechanical or electrical ahead of them now that there are more choices on the market for a good strong locker.

 

[devldogs55]

Thanks LEO. I have another question now.

I just found the E-locker entire rear axle assembly for $450. The guy said it is for a truck WITHOUT ABS. Is there any way to find out if I have ABS in the rear? Kinda sad to say I don't know for sure.

 

[Leo Ahearn]

The Haynes manual ($17.00 at the local auto store) for 79-95 makes no references to ABS for the 4runner and pickups.

generally, you should be able to look at the master cylinder and count the lines. ABS systems generally have a "from" and "to" line, versus standard systems just have a "to" line.

My guess is your 4runner does not have ABS.

 

[fourwd1]

Thanks LEO. I have another question now.

I just found the E-locker entire rear axle assembly for $450. The guy said it is for a truck WITHOUT ABS. Is there any way to find out if I have ABS in the rear? Kinda sad to say I don't know for sure.

IIRC the ABS form that era had a "module" mounted on the rear diff. Check yours.