Just got a used transmission with unknown service history put in, what to do?

[noxor]

Hi all!

I am going to be making a build thread soon, but in the meantime, I could use some advice.

I got a 99 4runner limited (v6 3.4 4x4 elocker etc) used recently with 130k on it. My dad got it in NY since i live in NV, so I wasnt able to look at it until we had it already, but he had several friends + mechanics look at and it checked out. Nothing in the way of service records, which I now think was a mistake, but, moving on.

On the drive from NY to NV the tranny shit the bed, slipped bad going up a hill and thats when I found out the fluid was terribly burned and black. I feel like an idiot for not getting all the fluids replaced or looking at it myself before the drive out (an oil change was done) but figured I would get it here, then start digging into maintenance. Learning experience...

So I got a used transmission from a junkyard put in, has similar miles to mine, I was told. I asked the shop to put a new filter in the used one, which they said was done. Made the 1500 more miles with no issues, and the fluid from the dipstick is red like it should be. Reeks, but no burned smell (am told Dextron fluids smell no matter what).

Should I do a flush like in the video below, and install all new fluid? What kind of fluid do you recommend? I want to wheel with this thing and would rather pay a few hundred up front to put in a good synthetic rather than normal fluid which would wear the trans faster, from my limited understanding. Do any of you recommend transguard? Edit: (also, I did not actually see the shop drop the pan and put in a new filter, am i being paranoid or should i drop it myself to verify, since I may have it drained anyway?)

THANKS EVERYONE :bigok:

OP, if you decide you want to renew your ATF, you don't need to take it to Toyota or another shop to get this done. You can do your own flush using the transmission fluid pump to move the old fluid out via the transmission cooler return line. It's not a hard job at all but it helps to have a friend or family member to help with the process.

Here's a video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did showing how to do it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[noxor]

may as well make this a new post. have been searching lots online + threads and have found this.

Let me jump in here with one of my favorite topics. The filter in the transmission is simply a screen. Don't bother opening up the pan. A screen isn't a filter. Also the magnets do catch some of the metal shavings and grit but what if you could catch more with a simple mod? And it only cost $16?

Look into Magnefine inline filters. I immediately put them on my PS and transmission whenever I get a new/used vehicle. There is a large dough nut shaped magnet at the entrance of the filter to catch the metallic stuff and then a paper filter element like an oil filter to catch everything else. What if it gets clogged? It has a built in bypass valve to let fluid flow around the filter. These are designed for 30,000 miles on transmission. The best part, it is installed in the trans cooler line. I have a perfectly functioning Mercury Villager with 135,000 and I did a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. At 129,000 (it was in for the last 40,000 miles) I pulled off the Magnefine filter and it was still catching metal on the magnet even though the fluid was fresh and the pan magnets still in place. My point is this, even though the pan has magnets, the Magnefine removed even more and it does it as the fluid flow passes over it on the way back into the transmission. I swear by these filters.

This picture shows how much metal I was able to wipe off the magnet. So much so that I could lift the paper towel with the magnet.

The fluid flows by the magnet first, from top to bottom

from their website: (dual filtration)magnet and element removes 99.97% of metal wear particles

So now my plan seems to be to:

1) do a drain + flush myself, install new fluid that y'all recommend (and transguard?

2) magnefine filter instead of dropping my pan

3) replace radiator since im assuming its original radiator on vehicle, koyo a1998 seems popular on this forum. i don't want the pink milkshake but figure if i put in a new rad that should last me a few years without needing to worry about getting a BM trans cooler, right?

thoughts?

 

[mtbtim]

may as well make this a new post. have been searching lots online + threads and have found this.




So now my plan seems to be to:

1) do a drain + flush myself, install new fluid that y'all recommend (and transguard?

2) magnefine filter instead of dropping my pan

3) replace radiator since im assuming its original radiator on vehicle, koyo a1998 seems popular on this forum. i don't want the pink milkshake but figure if i put in a new rad that should last me a few years without needing to worry about getting a BM trans cooler, right?

thoughts?

1) Yes, do the flush on your own. You just need to choose an ATF that is compatible with Dextron III. You can go the traditional fluid route or synthetic.

2) The reason people say dropping the pan isn't really necessary is because the filter on the bottom of the trans is just a metal mesh filter. It doesn't filter out fine particulates and it's not prone to clogging unless you have a serious load of metal shavings in there. With that said, dropping the pan and seeing how much accumulation of metal you have on the magnets and in the filter gives you an idea of the health of your trans. When I bought my rig, I only had 111,000 miles so I opted to not drop the pan. If you have 200,000+ miles, I'd lean towards dropping the pan, cleaning up the magnets, and cleaning or replacing the mesh filter.

3) Yes, replace the radiator. It's good insurance. A new radiator isn't going to 100% prevent the pink milkshake from happening, but it's going to reduce your chances significantly. How prevalent is the pink milkshake problem in the first place? It's my opinion it's not as common as we think. Since we frequent this forum and we hear about these issues much more than the average person, we get a skewed view of the chances of it happening. But yes, I bought into the fear at some level and replaced my radiator with an OEM one and added an external trans cooler in series with the stock cooler.

In my opinion, the real reason for an external trans cooler is not to prevent the pink milkshake but to reduce the trans temps. I learned from my own experience that our transmissions can get really hot driving up grades, towing, 4 wheeling, etc. If your ATF never got above 175 degrees F, it could last 100,000 miles or more. As the temp rises above 175, the life of the fluid goes down. Without a trans cooler and you drive consistent steep grades, like traveling into the mountains, your trans temps without an external cooler will easily rise to the neighborhood of 230 degrees. At 230 degrees, your fluid will still have a life of around 30,000 miles. If you're doing really steep roads or trails or you're towing, you'll go even higher and then the life of the fluid plummets dramatically.

There's two main ways to reduce your trans temps.
#1) Turn off the overdrive when you're climbing grades and driving no faster than around 65mph. With overdrive off, your trans will run 20+ degrees cooler.
#2) Add an external trans cooler and run it in-series with the stock cooler in the radiator. This will also drop yours trans temps as much as 20 degrees.

Ok, I'm done. Good luck!

 

[T4R2014]

Dexron 3 is a dated spec. Use a fluid that meets Toyota Type IV/ Mobil 3309.

 

[mtbtim]

Dexron 3 is a dated spec. Use a fluid that meets Toyota Type IV/ Mobil 3309.

Dextron III was the spec for the vehicle at the time the vehicle was manufactured. As long as the fluid you buy says it meets or exceeds the Dextron III spec, the fluid will work.

 

[StreetCreeper]

may as well make this a new post. have been searching lots online + threads and have found this.




So now my plan seems to be to:

1) do a drain + flush myself, install new fluid that y'all recommend (and transguard?

2) magnefine filter instead of dropping my pan

3) replace radiator since im assuming its original radiator on vehicle, koyo a1998 seems popular on this forum. i don't want the pink milkshake but figure if i put in a new rad that should last me a few years without needing to worry about getting a BM trans cooler, right?

thoughts?

Use this and you should be just fine — its good stuff and inexpensive too; like less than $20 a gallon. I flushed my transmission with this ATF about 28,000 miles ago. No problems whatsoever.

​

 

[T4R2014]

Use this and you should be just fine — its good stuff and inexpensive too; like less than $20 a gallon. I flushed my transmission with this ATF about 28,000 miles ago. No problems whatsoever.

​

Great fluid^ And it meets Type IV spec. However, it meets WS spec as well, making it thinner than ideal. I had no issues with it, but I found better shift quality from Castrol IMV.