Just installed Silvania Silverstars

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daytonaSURF

New member
Well, they were INCREDIBLY easy to install! The hardest part is forgetting not to touch the bulb. Its definitly whiter. Not blue like the cheaper immitations. Overall they look really good. Id reccomend them to anyone. I have a 97 so my lights might be a little duller then you all w/ newer ones.
BTW, I picked them up at a local Discount Auto Parts or AutoZone (whatever it is now) for about 30 bucks.
 
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They are alot better than stock. Especially for the 4th gen T4Rs, you can see the difference between the color of the fog lights and the lowbeams. Both of them are 9006 bulbs.

Maybe I should take a picture to show you what I mean.. maybe there's already a picture on here... i'm still new here.... :D
 
I was just thinking about getting a set. Does anyone know the part/model numbers for high/low beams and fogs on a 4rth gen? TIA.....
 
For the 4th gen: Low beam and fog lights both use 9006 and high beams use 9005.

I have a set in my low beams and fog lights and really like them so far. But, I switched out my low beams today for some SPP Superwhite bulbs. I'm testing them out.
 
For a little more brightness, take a 9005 (high beam bulb) and modify it to fit the 9006 housing. It takes about 20 seconds to dremmel off the tab on the bulb.

That's what I did and it works pretty good.

The lumens on the 9005 is 1700, compared to the 9006 at 1000
 
I've nevered even thought about cutting off that little piece of plastic. So its like having your high beams on all the time but aimed like a low beam.....

any pictures or comparisions?
 
Thanks Cdoyle. I did the mod today and it looks good. The mod only took about 10 minutes to do with the dremel. It looks bright but I don't know how it compares if I would use the 9006ST . One thing I'm concern with is the 9005ST lifespan may be much shorter than the 9006ST (according to Sylvania website). Well, I'll find out once they start burning out.
 
ya I wasn't sure about lifespan when I first installed them, but I've had mine for about a year now, so I think it's worth it.
 
Having had allot of experience with lighting on my Galant VR4 Rally Car I have some simple advise. Just like there is no substitute for cubic inches in an engine, there is now substitute for WATTS when comparing Halogen lights. Yes, I know all about lumens etc. Anytime you color a light bulbs globe (part of glass that houses the filament) you loose lumens. The only way to make this up is with more power (WATTS).

Currently I am running Hella Optilux 80W lowbeams and 100W highbeams. While they are, unfortunately, blue globes, the extra 60% in WATTS more than makes up the difference. Are they better than HIDS, HELL NO! Are they better than Sylvania's, not sure as I have never tried them. Are they better than stock, HELL YES! Still, I really do wish Hella still brought to the USA their 100W, clear globe 9005/9006 bulbs. Those were made in Europe and way better than their blue, Korean Optilux product.

I want tot try the highbeam bulb mod for the fogs right now! My fogs do not go down the road at all! I am hoping removing the "cover" on the globe of the stockers will give me some more coverage.
 
Duc Hunter is absolutely right about more light, only more watts will make a real difference. Don't be fooled by the blue color. Just a word of caution, more watts create more heat. Make sure you keep an eye on the reflector/fixture and wiring for signs of melting. It is a good idea to use dielectric compound/grease on the electrical connection between the bulb and connectors. I've used the Nappa brand bulbs (Wagner/German made) in several cars, 80/100 and 100/130. I have not seen a brighter bulb then the 100/130 Wagners, not even the PIAA, Catz, etc., you can't get a better bang for the buck at $13 each.

Koz
 
Duc Hunter said:
I want tot try the highbeam bulb mod for the fogs right now! My fogs do not go down the road at all! I am hoping removing the "cover" on the globe of the stockers will give me some more coverage.
Click to expand...

but the thing with the fog lights is that it is in a projector housing... it will still give that distinctive cutoff.

oh.. and i just did "conversion". On one side i have my 9006ST and on the other side the converted 9005ST.

Results: 9006ST still gave better results. A little more of a "whiter light". The converted 9006ST gave off a "warmer" light. I will take some picture tonite.
 
Have you installed these in the 4-Runner (gen 4's) yet? Any issues with too much heat in the housings? If so, can you post pictures? I'm very interested, this seems like a great deal!


Koz said:
I've used the Nappa brand bulbs (Wagner/German made) in several cars, 80/100 and 100/130. I have not seen a brighter bulb then the 100/130 Wagners, not even the PIAA, Catz, etc., you can't get a better bang for the buck at $13 each.
Koz
Click to expand...
 
iFORCE said:
but the thing with the fog lights is that it is in a projector housing... it will still give that distinctive cutoff.
Click to expand...

I am well aware that the fog lights won’t project light up on the vertical plain because of the design. Regardless of design fog light s ALWAYS have a cut-off beam. They are designed to shoot light low, wide and far down the road under the fog while not causing the fog itself to flare (light up because of reflected light) into the drivers eyes. I want them to shoot light farther down the road. Toyota has designed theses to only fill in light between the bump and where the low beams hit the road. This is not a fog light at all.
 
Duc Hunter,

Fog lights are designed to shine light directly in front of your vehicle on a downward angle. The TOP of the beam should drop approx. 4 inches below the mounting height of the fixture at 25 feet. Whereas driving lights should be focused to shine further down the road as you would like. The CENTER of the beam should drop only 1.5 inches at 25 feet.

Yes the fog light beam should be focused low and wide but not as far down the road as driving lights. The Toyota fog lights are designed as such, unfortunately (for you) the focus profile is designed in the reflector. If there is a manual adjustment you may be able raise the whole beam profile some. I would suggest adding aftermarket driving lights.

Koz
 
Koz said:
Duc Hunter,

Fog lights are designed to shine light directly in front of your vehicle on a downward angle. The TOP of the beam should drop approx. 4 inches below the mounting height of the fixture at 25 feet. Whereas driving lights should be focused to shine further down the road as you would like. The CENTER of the beam should drop only 1.5 inches at 25 feet.
Click to expand...

Not to start a pissing contest, because that is not my intent at all but..............I believe you are wrong. I have been driving rally cars and road racing cars (Silver State Classic style racing on real roads) for years. Fog light should shoot several hundred feet down the road at a minimum, should have a cut off beam to their top and a wide angle. Driving lights go 2000 feet plus down the road, have a narrower beam patter that has more elevation on it.

Modern manufactures use the term "fog light" too loosely. They use them to fill holes they have in the headlight beam patter and for "cool" factor. They are simply not functional.

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Beams.htm
 
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