Just kissed 200K miles
- Thread starter ValWicked
- Start date
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Items I've replaced since I rolled over 200k (at 240k now):
- XREAS
- Front wheel bearings (both sides)
- Brake light switch
- PCV Valve
- Climate control bulbs
- Serpentine belt
- Rear window weather strip
- Subwoofer
- Engine splash guards
- Lower steering shaft + yoke
- Battery
- Gas cap
- Rear rotors & brakepads, front pads
Also along the way did a complete coolant flush with new SLLC coolant, rear diff fluid, machine transmission fluid flush, power steering fluid (takes AT fluid dex ll I believe),
- XREAS
- Front wheel bearings (both sides)
- Brake light switch
- PCV Valve
- Climate control bulbs
- Serpentine belt
- Rear window weather strip
- Subwoofer
- Engine splash guards
- Lower steering shaft + yoke
- Battery
- Gas cap
- Rear rotors & brakepads, front pads
Also along the way did a complete coolant flush with new SLLC coolant, rear diff fluid, machine transmission fluid flush, power steering fluid (takes AT fluid dex ll I believe),
gm350reratliff
New member
Congrats on passing 200k!
My 4th gen is now around 205k miles. In the last 10k miles I've replaced;
Front wheel bearings- front left was getting loud on turns, no play in wheels
F & R brake rotors and pads- had close to 100k miles on previous brakes and pads were getting thin and some slight pulsing
Alternator, idler pulleys, tensioner, belt- Went to leave for work one sunny day and the alternator literally locked up in my driveway and smoked the belt. Figured I'd change out the idlers and tensioner while I was in there. The best place to break down is at home with another vehicle available to drive.
Front coilovers- the 6112 billies started leaking pretty bad and they didn't feel right, had about 50k miles on them, Dobinsons went in their place.
Front lower A-arms/ balljoints- The bushings were shot and I figured I might as well do the balljoints while I was in there. Premium Moog arms and BJs installed. I'm not confident they will last long, made in chyna.
Alarm and remote start- the 14 year old Avitel RS was getting very hit and miss when it would lock, unlock, start. Tried a few known "fixes" without success so a new, cheap Crimestopper unit installed.
Brake master cylinder and booster unit- by far the most expensive and probably the most important fix on this 4runner. Never fully lost the brakes but the booster motor was screaming every 2-3 seconds and the pedal feel was inconsistent. Nearly $1200 but an easy install and bleed. Brakes feel as good as new now.
Rear hatch exterior button pad- unfortunately, this 4th gen now sits outside in the hot NM sun most days and the button just started melting one day. I only replaced the pad, not the entire button.
So, quite a few repairs over the course of roughly 10k miles but not all were the 4runners fault or were even OEM parts. There's quite a few off-road miles on this 4th gen over the last 8 years so not all of this is a surprise at all. Still cheaper than a new vehicle payment and I still enjoy driving this thing after all these years.
Every vehicle is different- environment, maintenance, use, etc. all plays a part in when parts start to fail. Some go over 300k miles with no issues at all, some are replacing parts before 100k miles.
My 4th gen is now around 205k miles. In the last 10k miles I've replaced;
Front wheel bearings- front left was getting loud on turns, no play in wheels
F & R brake rotors and pads- had close to 100k miles on previous brakes and pads were getting thin and some slight pulsing
Alternator, idler pulleys, tensioner, belt- Went to leave for work one sunny day and the alternator literally locked up in my driveway and smoked the belt. Figured I'd change out the idlers and tensioner while I was in there. The best place to break down is at home with another vehicle available to drive.
Front coilovers- the 6112 billies started leaking pretty bad and they didn't feel right, had about 50k miles on them, Dobinsons went in their place.
Front lower A-arms/ balljoints- The bushings were shot and I figured I might as well do the balljoints while I was in there. Premium Moog arms and BJs installed. I'm not confident they will last long, made in chyna.
Alarm and remote start- the 14 year old Avitel RS was getting very hit and miss when it would lock, unlock, start. Tried a few known "fixes" without success so a new, cheap Crimestopper unit installed.
Brake master cylinder and booster unit- by far the most expensive and probably the most important fix on this 4runner. Never fully lost the brakes but the booster motor was screaming every 2-3 seconds and the pedal feel was inconsistent. Nearly $1200 but an easy install and bleed. Brakes feel as good as new now.
Rear hatch exterior button pad- unfortunately, this 4th gen now sits outside in the hot NM sun most days and the button just started melting one day. I only replaced the pad, not the entire button.
So, quite a few repairs over the course of roughly 10k miles but not all were the 4runners fault or were even OEM parts. There's quite a few off-road miles on this 4th gen over the last 8 years so not all of this is a surprise at all. Still cheaper than a new vehicle payment and I still enjoy driving this thing after all these years.
Every vehicle is different- environment, maintenance, use, etc. all plays a part in when parts start to fail. Some go over 300k miles with no issues at all, some are replacing parts before 100k miles.
MikeinNH67
Senior Member
Ball joint, front wheel bearings and a rear axle seal are the most recent failures on mine.
Bundutrailer
Member
Curious, nobody has replaced their water pump and thermostat?
Napalm
New member
I have, it wasn’t out of necessity I just did it because I was swapping out a leaky radiator at 195k miles.
Swapped it out, and been having check engine lights ever since [emoji2359]
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gm350reratliff
New member
Knock on wood, no.
I've drained and flushed the anti-freeze twice, so maybe that helps. Oddly enough, I just had to replace a leaky water pump on my 2017 Tundra (60k miles) and changed the thermostat while I was in there. I figure either the water pump and/or the radiator will go out next. I think I've covered everything else now, lol.
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