Just started pulling to the left out of the blue

[wtcnbrwndo4u]

Hey all,
I got an alignment after my lift a couple of weeks back, everything straight and good. I was just driving to my parents' place and along the way, it started pulling to the left when I had to brake hard. Normal level braking, it stays straight. Like you're gradually braking. It also drives straight when you're not applying brakes, so alignment seems fine. But if you kinda bite into the brakes, instant pull to the left.

To me, this seems like the caliper on the right is locking up, hence pulling to vehicle to the left. What's the best way to verify this? Going to pop off the wheel tomorrow after work to take a look and see if there's anything like a bad brake hose or line. I checked the brake fluid under the hood though, completely full. This literally happened on the drive too, so that's why I'm thinking seized pistons.

Lemme know. Thanks!

 

[Inv4drZm]

Hey all,

To me, this seems like the caliper on the right is locking up, hence pulling to vehicle to the left.

It would be the opposite. If the vehicle pulls to the left, the caliper on the left side would be acting up.:tea:

 

[RonJR]

It would be the opposite. If the vehicle pulls to the left, the caliper on the left side would be acting up.:tea:

I read him to say that he thinks the right caliper has a limited range of motion, so under hard braking isn't applying as much pressure as the left, thus causing pull to the left.

No way to really tell without more inspection.

 

[wtcnbrwndo4u]

I read him to say that he thinks the right caliper has a limited range of motion, so under hard braking isn't applying as much pressure as the left, thus causing pull to the left.

No way to really tell without more inspection.

This is correct, this is how it feels in the car. It feels like the right side isn't compressing fully, or one of the pistons is seized (i.e. not pushing on the pad). I'll get into it, and find out.

 

[86scotty]

I'd pull both front wheels for a quick inspection yourself, and if nothing looks out of place go straight back to the alignment shop. Perhaps they didn't tighten something down or button it up?

If you're still driving the truck just check your wheels for heat every time you get out after driving, or better yet use a laser thermometer gun if you have one. They're great for stuff like this.

:cheers:

 

[wtcnbrwndo4u]

I'd pull both front wheels for a quick inspection yourself, and if nothing looks out of place go straight back to the alignment shop. Perhaps they didn't tighten something down or button it up?

If you're still driving the truck just check your wheels for heat every time you get out after driving, or better yet use a laser thermometer gun if you have one. They're great for stuff like this.

:cheers:

When I got out last night, I put my hand up near the right wheel hub to see if it was hot. It didn't feel very warm at all. I didn't check the driver's side for whatever reason lol.

 

[adkfinn]

When I got out last night, I put my hand up near the right wheel hub to see if it was hot. It didn't feel very warm at all. I didn't check the driver's side for whatever reason lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Las...id=1471023177&sr=8-4&keywords=temperature+gun

Save your fingers my friend. If the brakes are hot you don't want to be putting your fingers on them.... plus, this little toy is great for all kinds of useful stuff. :reddance:

 

[wtcnbrwndo4u]

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Las...id=1471023177&sr=8-4&keywords=temperature+gun

Save your fingers my friend. If the brakes are hot you don't want to be putting your fingers on them.... plus, this little toy is great for all kinds of useful stuff. :reddance:

Haha, I did say near, not on. I read that in some threads last night trying to narrow the issue down.

 

[nevada]

the pistons will usually seize out, not in. by that I mean, when you apply the brakes, there is significant force against the piston, and it will usually move out, even if just slightly, then it just fails to retract.

get the front up and spin the tires. if you have a stuck piston, you should be able to feel it. one tire should have more resistance than the other. sometimes you will need to pump the pedal several times prior to spinning the tire. to get that stuck piston pushed out, as they can relax over time.

 

[wtcnbrwndo4u]

the pistons will usually seize out, not in. by that I mean, when you apply the brakes, there is significant force against the piston, and it will usually move out, even if just slightly, then it just fails to retract.

get the front up and spin the tires. if you have a stuck piston, you should be able to feel it. one tire should have more resistance than the other. sometimes you will need to pump the pedal several times prior to spinning the tire. to get that stuck piston pushed out, as they can relax over time.

Interesting. Alright, I can check this out when I get home.

 

[Silver_midlife_t4r]

the pistons will usually seize out, not in. by that I mean, when you apply the brakes, there is significant force against the piston, and it will usually move out, even if just slightly, then it just fails to retract.

get the front up and spin the tires. if you have a stuck piston, you should be able to feel it. one tire should have more resistance than the other. sometimes you will need to pump the pedal several times prior to spinning the tire. to get that stuck piston pushed out, as they can relax over time.

So will the seized caliper have more or less resistance when you spin the tire? I'm getting some pulsation when braking, and trying to diagnose & repair. I know how to replace brakes/rotors, but don't want to throw money at it if it's not needed. (Sorry for the thread jack)

 

[nevada]

So will the seized caliper have more or less resistance when you spin the tire? I'm getting some pulsation when braking, and trying to diagnose & repair. I know how to replace brakes/rotors, but don't want to throw money at it if it's not needed. (Sorry for the thread jack)

it will have more.
the pistons get stuck in the out position, with pressure on the pad, which is against the rotor.


pulsation while braking, is almost always the front brakes. it does happen with the rear as well, but its less common and harder to feel. at highway speeds, you would typically see some bounce in the steering wheel under braking. that's a sure sign its the fronts.

though, along with the caliper(if its bad) you will want to resurface/replace the rotors and replace the pads.

I see it very often, a sure cause of pulsation is someone swapping pads, without doing the rotors.

 

[Silver_midlife_t4r]

it will have more.
the pistons get stuck in the out position, with pressure on the pad, which is against the rotor.


pulsation while braking, is almost always the front brakes. it does happen with the rear as well, but its less common and harder to feel. at highway speeds, you would typically see some bounce in the steering wheel under braking. that's a sure sign its the fronts.

though, along with the caliper(if its bad) you will want to resurface/replace the rotors and replace the pads.

I see it very often, a sure cause of pulsation is someone swapping pads, without doing the rotors.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I've only had mine for a few months, so I've been working my way through it.