kayaks on roof rack

[cangler]

So I just got myself a pretty big kayak for fishing (Jackson Cuda 14', weighs about 70 lbs). Anyone transfer big kayaks on their roof rack? I'm looking for a system that is easy for one person to load/unload properly and quickly as possible, something with wheels to help roll it up onto the roof rack. I have a spoiler on the rear so that makes rear loading not really an option without risk of damaging the spoiler.

 

[T4RUSAF]

Here is my transport system, two straps and some padding lol.

Sorry fort useless post, can't help you with what your asking. But I thought my transport system (or lack there of) was a bit ghetto, but worked.

 

[rebelbowtie]

i dont have pics of it anymore but i used to carry two 12' kayaks on the roof of a lifted Jeep Wrangler (4" pro comp short arm on 35" tires) strapped down to the factory roll cage. kayaks are pretty darn light, you should be able to throw them up on the roof by yourself.

in fact here is a picture of my same Kayak on my friends mk4 VW golf

 

[cangler]

Yeah, 70-80 lbs isn't too bad weight wise but because it's a tad over 14 ft long and 30 inches wide, it's extremely awkward to lift/carry by yourself. It feels like it's much heavier. I will defiantly need a trolley (found this one: C-Tug Kayak Cart Canoe Dolly | Paddlesports & Kayak Accessories) to transport it from 4R to water and vice versa... but also would need some sort of wheels in the back of the rack (that can extend past the spoiler to avoid any contact with the spoiler) to assist with guiding it up unto the rack safely (no damage) and then retracts once the kayak is loaded. This seems perfect Thule*-*887XT Slipstream but the max weight capacity is right at my boats weight so not sure if that's a problem or not.... wish the weight capacity was at least 85 lbs. I plan on adding stuff to the kayak that may add some weight to it anyways.

 

[matty]

Get this. I have a Current Designs Crosswind which is like 95 pounds and about 19 feet. I have a Hully Roller adapted to the hitch mount, and it rolls right on without affecting the spoiler. As an added bonus, it is on the rack and tied down in 3 places instead of 2 on just the bars.

 

[jdkilroy]

There is a product by Thule called the "Hullavator"

Thule 897XT Hullavator Demonstrated by Rack Attack - YouTube

I just put mine in "J" racks but 70 lbs is pretty heavy to be playing with over your head; especially if a breeze acts on it while you're trying to load it. (lot of surface area there) The "Hullavator" is pretty spendy but its cheaper than trashing your rig or your self.

 

[cangler]

Get this.

I sort of like this idea, but I don't have a hitch right now. Do you know if they make this same design but with rollers on the bar to make it even easier to just roll it up onto the rack? I would have to invest in a hitch if I want to go this route, which is fine... but want to explore all the options first.

There is a product by Thule called the "Hullavator"

What concerns me is my boat weight without any modifications is probably more like 75lbs, and plan on adding fish finder, etc... will only increase weight. The weight limit on that Hullavator is only 75lbs which really concerns me. Another thing, does it mount properly to our factory roof rack? How heavy is your yak?

 

[jdkilroy]

I think you will want to create a really sound platform to start with.

The main rails for our roof rack system are quite strong; the factory cross bars are not. You will not want to trust your kayak with those cross bars while doing 75 (or more) down the highway.

You will want to get a pair of cross bars to mount on your factory rails. You will want to mount them as close to the rail ends as possible to maximize the distance between the cross bars and to take advantage of the the strength of the feet that are bolted to your roof. (under the end caps). Once you have a good solid set of well-spaced cross bars you have a lot of options.

I can't assure you that the Hullavators will handle 100 lbs but I'm going to bet that they have a significant safety factor built in. I mounted a set on my wife's car and I can tell you that they are very heavily built. They are not cheap. The "J" bars would serve you well and cheaply but you would want two of you to place the kayak on your roof if you will be adding gear that stays in the boat. (I think the fish finders can be mounted so that they are quickly removable)

(To answer your question, the kayak you see on my Runner is ~ 63 lbs, 17'-6" long. I put it on and remove it my self but I'm 6'3" so perhaps a little easier for me and I do it a lot)

There are often roof rack components from Thule and Yakima for sale used. Craigs List is a good resource. The equipment new is spendy but Thule guarantees for life and Yakima may as well.

Sorry for long winded response; hope it helped some. I will add a photo of the cross rail set up in just a bit.

 

[rebelbowtie]

man your guys kayaks are really heavy, i wonder if mine weighs that much...

 

[sonerick]

Since you want to have something that's easy to load/unload, have you considered a small trailer? I know it might be more expensive, but it seems like the best option in terms of ease of loading/unloading. (*Edit, I just read that you don't have a hitch. Still might not be a bad idea if you're willing to invest in one though.)

I myself just picked up a j-bar rack for my yak. J-racks in general are a pain in the ass to load and unload alone, especially with a lift since the yaks are so big and awkward. However they are cheaper and simpler than other rack options i saw. The model I picked up was the yakima hullraiser aero. I do not recommend it for two main reasons:

1. The straps included with the hullraiser do not clamp very tightly. I have a set of ratchet straps I could use instead, but at $150 I think the ones included should be pretty damn sturdy. These however, are not.

2. The clamps that hold the j-rack to the crossbars are plastic and seem to flex quite a bit when torqued down. With a kayak on the roof acting as a wind sail, it's hard not to be concerned about this flimsy piece of plastic since it's one of the things keeping the kayak from taking off down the highway.

If this rack had costed $50 bucks, maybe I'd keep it, but at this price ($150) I am disappointed with it's quality. I'll probably exchange it for the thule hull-a-port j-bar rack, which seems to have a better design.

 

[cangler]

I think you will want to create a really sound platform to start with.

The main rails for our roof rack system are quite strong; the factory cross bars are not. You will not want to trust your kayak with those cross bars while doing 75 (or more) down the highway.

I thought our factory racks (including our cross bars), could handle at least 100 lbs? I'm looking at your photos and your main rails look different than mine... mine are round and the cross bars (which are flat) slide inside the main rails with locking twist knobs. It seems really sturdy. Did you have bad experience with the factory cross bars in the past?

Since you want to have something that's easy to load/unload, have you considered a small trailer? I know it might be more expensive, but it seems like the best option in terms of ease of loading/unloading. (*Edit, I just read that you don't have a hitch. Still might not be a bad idea if you're willing to invest in one though.)

I was trying to avoid a trailer because I don't like the idea of extending my vehicle length, and how trailers take up more room etc

 

[jdkilroy]

Cangler:

I have the basic roof rack that comes with SR5. My cross rails had plastic ends that slid into the tracks and I didn't trust them. As I said earlier, the forces trying to rip your kayak off the roof are significant when you are traveling at highway speeds. Add to that, buffeting cross winds and ... well, you get the picture.

 

[cangler]

Cangler:

I have the basic roof rack that comes with SR5. My cross rails had plastic ends that slid into the tracks and I didn't trust them. As I said earlier, the forces trying to rip your kayak off the roof are significant when you are traveling at highway speeds. Add to that, buffeting cross winds and ... well, you get the picture.

I'll look at my cross bars again and see if I see any plastic, but I don't recall seeing any plastic other than the twist knobs. Yeah, I defiantly wouldn't want plastic holding the cross bars on to the main rails.

 

[Roadtripr]

I got a 16 foot kayak that with all is over 80lbs.

I use Holly Rollers on the back bar:
Yakima Racks & Carriers › Shop › Water › Top › HullyRollers

Mako Saddles on the front.
Yakima Racks & Carriers › Shop › Water › Top › Mako Saddles

The back spoiler is a pain. Put a towel on it. Park your 4runner w a slight incline, front up. Throw the front of the kayak on the spoiler and lift the rear of the kayak and push it on the rollers and move it forward until you are in position.

The cross rails are a little soft but can handle it (70+ miles per hour). With time you might get better cross bars (Thule or Yakima), add the tow hitch bar etc. But this should work till then.

Definitely get a cart or wheels to transport the kayak when going from truck to water

 

[cangler]

The back spoiler is a pain. Put a towel on it. Park your 4runner w a slight incline, front up. Throw the front of the kayak on the spoiler and lift the rear of the kayak and push it on the rollers and move it forward until you are in position.

That concerns me... isn't that a lot of weight/pressure being put on the spoiler? You're basically using the spoiler as a pivot point right?

 

[Roadtripr]

That concerns me... isn't that a lot of weight/pressure being put on the spoiler? You're basically using the spoiler as a pivot point right?

It seems to handle it, but if the towell moves you are going to scratch the spoiler.

Just found this and I might try it out
Yakima Racks & Carriers › Shop › Water › Lift Assist › ShowBoat
Seems easier than adding a hitch bar.

 

[cangler]

That showboat may be an option despite only supports up to 80 lbs, that should be good enough. But can you tell what's the different between the showboat and the showboat 66 ?


edit: just figured out the regular showboat don't include the needed support bars, man they are expensive!

 

[Roadtripr]

It looks like it could go directly onto the 4runners cross bars. However, you might want better crossbars anyway. I used to have a crossbar for my 99 4runner and it was much quicker to put the kayak rack on that way than screwing them on and off each time.

 

[cangler]

It looks like it could go directly onto the 4runners cross bars. However, you might want better crossbars anyway. I used to have a crossbar for my 99 4runner and it was much quicker to put the kayak rack on that way than screwing them on and off each time.

Do the yakima crossbars mount to the existing 4R main rails, and you just remove the factory crossbars?

 

[jdkilroy]

Cangler,

yes, Yakima and Thule (and possibly others) make "feet" that attach to your factory rails which you then attach the new cross bars to.

You can explore this at thule.com or yakima.com

The nice thing is that you can move this set-up to your next vehicle or a different one as needed.

By the way, that Jackson looks like it will be a sweet fishing platform.