KDSS Leaking - Limited experience from dealers, need help

mgreezy

New member
I noticed the boot of my rear KDSS Stabilizer has hydraulic fluid all over it. This is on a 2017 TRD ORP with a 2.5/1 Daystar Spacer Lift with 64k miles.

I’ve been told by dealers that this requires a special tool. Unfortunately, I have not found a mechanic who can explain how to repair the system. I’ve only found horror stories on this forum and the internet with what sounds like bad advice from dealers on both cost and prices to repair. Some people are saying as much as $2,500-4k!?

I’m hoping that someone with personal experience can shed some light on potential solutions.

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I'm in a similar situation, expect up at the front. 2016 Trail, 85k miles, 5100 1inch lift. I can't really tell if it's hydraulic fluid or not, but the bottom of the boot appears to be moist. I dried it off, hoping I could identify what color the residual was but it was just black grease/grime. I went to the dealer out of curiosity and was told that since I'm out of warranty it's not covered.

If you have an extended warranty go to the dealer and have them check it out.
 
take it off, take the boot off, take the piston to a shop, have them rebuild it. Re-install, have a hydraulic shop re pressurize the system. It's not voodoo. It's just hydraulics.
 
Did any of the dealers blame the spacer lift?


Toyota will always find a way to deny a claim. The dealer wants to do the repair because they get paid for it. But, the dealer is required to be honest about the lift height. So yes and no.


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I'm in a similar situation, expect up at the front. 2016 Trail, 85k miles, 5100 1inch lift. I can't really tell if it's hydraulic fluid or not, but the bottom of the boot appears to be moist. I dried it off, hoping I could identify what color the residual was but it was just black grease/grime. I went to the dealer out of curiosity and was told that since I'm out of warranty it's not covered.

If you have an extended warranty go to the dealer and have them check it out.


Does your truck handle poorly? Is the KDSS still active?

I haven’t found a thread on how to remove the KDSS. Just a bunch of theory and hypothesis.


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I also have KDSS and have read most of the threads regarding KDSS piston failures.

To summarize:
1) It is a HIGH pressure system
2) Toyota stealerships will not have the tools to deal with it.
3) Lexus stealerships may have the tools to deal with it.
4) Various results from dangerous to no issues at all have been reported from simply disconnecting the KDSS pistons and zip tying them out of the way. I have no opinion nor recommendations regarding this and hesitate to say anything.
5) Repairs are costly. :crybaby:

Best of luck!
 
Repairing the cylinder seal (assuming you can find a seal kit) should not be that hard. You will have to de-pressurize the system, remove / repair / re-install cylinder, re-fill fluid (this is the hard part because you will need a high pressure pump, bleed the system of air, calibrate system. Read through the link below. I have not done this but after reading through it, I think the problem will be in getting the pump to put new oil in. The rest looks simple. There are a ton of cautions about it being under high pressure so make sure you understand that. Good luck and hopefully you can find a lexus or toyta dealer that knows so you don't have to do it yourself, but you can, it's not rocket science if you are mechanically inclined.

Toyota 4Runner: Bleeding - Suspension Control System(w/ Kdss) - Service Manual
 
Does your truck handle poorly? Is the KDSS still active?

I haven’t found a thread on how to remove the KDSS. Just a bunch of theory and hypothesis.


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The threads to remove it are out there, just have to dig a little.

My truck handles fine and the KDSS service light isn't on, so I think everything is fine. I don't really care too much to be honest.

When I go over large bumps at 20+MPH, I get a clicking/snapping (best of my description) sound upon compression coming from the driver's side. Not sure what it is. I'm planning a suspension refresh pretty soon, but not planning on doing anything with the KDSS piston other than making sure it's not leaking. I'll also be installing the Treaty Oak KDSS spacer kit to see if that helps a bit.
 
KDSS PISTON leaking into boot and now tiny bumps are loud, no lights yet but just curious if anyone knows about repairing? I’m doing bushings and tie rods in a couple weeks when my parts arrive. Over 100,000mi and this is the FIRST issue I’ve ever had with her. Also, spoke with multiple Toyota and Lexus dealerships in my are and they have NO idea what I’m talking about LOL.


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2021 ORP with 58,000 KMs. Noticed hydraulic fluid on the boot at the front. Dealer seems like they are going to take care of it under warranty but I am a little worried about them fixing it incorrectly since it KDSS seems to be a little understood component. Fingers crossed. No lift and almost all pavement driving, just the occasional logging road.
 
My 2018 TRD OR developed a rear leak at 40k miles. I was quoted $2k to replace it. Dom (Dr KDSS) told me that the hydraulic rams are not rebuildable (based on him having dissected them). If true, then this is contrary to some of the posts above. I am in the slow process of having a rigid drop link fabricated to replace both rams rather than converting the sway bars to the non-KDSS version. These would be made by buying the passenger side rigid links, cutting them and extending them to fit in place of the hydraulic rams. I'm willing to lose the off road articulation in order to not be held hostage to this Toyota price ripoff. I will post something after it's been fabricated, installed and ridden on.

I should add that in the 5k miles since I saw the seepage, I haven't noticed any difference in handling and not any clunking I was told I'd hear when the fluid level gets low enough.
 
No issues with mine thus far, but when/if that time comes, I will likely remove the system up front and replace the rear with a fixed sway bar.
 
KDSS is the option that allows you to navigate a sharp curve at 70 mph with less body lean. For the couple times you need it for that, it costs $4,000 to fix. Cheaper solution is to slow the F down.
 

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