KDSS rotted out-need replacement advice please!

Hi, I just had the KDSS delelted by a shop on my 2010 TE. Northeast also.

The KDSS light remains on though. I would like to turn it off either by software (OBD2 scanner?) or physically (disconnect it).

Did you encounter this issue? If so, what have you done?

Thanks.

I have yet to clear the KDSS light on my dash... currently living with it at the moment.


May I ask what did the shop do to delete? did they remove the hydraulic pistons and leave the bar disconnected on drivers side? or did they install something in place of the hydraulic pistons?
 
I have yet to clear the KDSS light on my dash... currently living with it at the moment.


May I ask what did the shop do to delete? did they remove the hydraulic pistons and leave the bar disconnected on drivers side? or did they install something in place of the hydraulic pistons?

Did you get any info on doing the kdss delete. I know people have their lives and can get busy but it seems like they just disappear too lol.
 
Search "Apache Offroad", they make a set of brackets to retrofit non-KDSS sways onto the rear and provide part numbers of other parts needed. For the front they say the LCA's are the same between KDSS/NON KDSS the provision is there for the link just a hole needs to drilled out and a nutsurt added to the frame. Obviously the rear brackets need to be welded on rear frame/axle housing. My buddy just bought a 2010 Trail with KDSS light on - reading 0psi so he has a leak somewhere and found these. I emailed them to see if they ship to Canada. I just bought a 2020 TRD OFF ROAD with KDSS after my order for a new 2024 got canceled by Toyota. I am willing to buy these brackets now and just throw them on a shelf for 10 yrs or whenever my KDSS has a problem that's not worth fixing haha. Love it so far though. The brackets are $68 on pre-order right now.

For the warning light I can't say for sure but it may be as simple as applying 12vdc to the appropriate wire in the cluster like you would for a TPMS delete
 
So just wanted to post an update on my KDSS situation....
finally got back to addressing the KDSS issue on my rusty ol' Canadian 4runner. I was starting to get sick of the lean and rolling around corners.


Decided to go with option C) and remove the KDSS pistons and install some modified/fabricated links.

Finished the rear last weekend and it went really smooth. Ended up purchasing the rear right side link and lengthened it to 13 1/2 inches in length from center of the bolt hole to the bottom of the link. Also had to cut off 1/4 inch on each side of the upper bushing in order for it to fit in the perch where the KDSS piston used to be.


With just the rear link installed, the driver side lean is practically gone and the body roll has significantly decreased going around corners.

I have been driving for a week now and on road/highway ride is definitely better but this mod is going to to take away some wheel articulation and I'm guessing will make the ride off road a little stiffer/bumpy. I have yet to take it on a really rough trail to test.

I plan to fabricate and install the front link next week along with installing Bilstein 6112s/5100s all around and see how the performance is when all said and done.


So for all you northern folks that have rusted out or corroded KDSS components and don't wanna pay big $$$$ to have it replaced, this may be a solution for you. Ended up spending about $200 USD on parts for the front and rear sway bars. If you know how to weld or have a friend then this can be a pretty simple solution.

Some pics attached of the mod

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Did you ever install the front fixed link? I've been exploring options for KDSS removal and this looks interesting, wondering how it all turned out.
 
Did you ever install the front fixed link? I've been exploring options for KDSS removal and this looks interesting, wondering how it all turned out.

I did install the front link and everything turned out... ok. I actually had to purchase another Rear-Right link in place of the front left KDSS cylinder. The FR link would not fit in the perch on the frame where the cylinder was.


I have been driving it like this for a few months now and can say the vehicle now rides a bit "rocky" rather than "rolly". I no longer have that wheel articulation that I did before.

At low speeds you definitely notice that the vehicle rocks back and forth more than it would with the 'failed' kdss cylinder.

My next step is to install the Bilstein 6112 coilovers and drive again...

TBH I am also considering removing the front left link that I Installed and see how that rides as well.
 
If I understand correctly the RF link is the only one that is now different, i.e. the others are all (except for length) based on the RR? And was the front one also 13.5 inches? Thanks.
 
I did install the front link and everything turned out... ok. I actually had to purchase another Rear-Right link in place of the front left KDSS cylinder. The FR link would not fit in the perch on the frame where the cylinder was.


I have been driving it like this for a few months now and can say the vehicle now rides a bit "rocky" rather than "rolly". I no longer have that wheel articulation that I did before.

At low speeds you definitely notice that the vehicle rocks back and forth more than it would with the 'failed' kdss cylinder.

My next step is to install the Bilstein 6112 coilovers and drive again...

TBH I am also considering removing the front left link that I Installed and see how that rides as well.

Thanks for the update! My KDSS is still functioning as normal and I'm just looking into options for how it could be disabled down the road if it fails etc.

That being said I can confirm it does ride quiet a bit more rocky than SR5's I've compared against when its functioning so if your was totally failed it would be quite rolly. I'd suspect the ride you described is exactly KDSS on road feel with locked cylinders.
 
If I understand correctly the RF link is the only one that is now different, i.e. the others are all (except for length) based on the RR? And was the front one also 13.5 inches? Thanks.

The Front Right link and the Rear Right link are both factory... never touched them...

The 'custom' front left link I believe had to be 14.5... The truck was actually level once I did the rear left link.. so for the front left, I just measured from perch to kdss bar and I believe it was about 14.5... had to use a REAR RIGHT LINK and lengthen it to that length because FRONT RIGHT link would not fit in the perch where the kdss cylinder used to be.

hope that makes sense
 
Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the front one ended up being an inch longer than the rear one. You mentioned having to grind the side down to fit into the bracket. Was that still true on when you used the RR on the LF?
 
Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the front one ended up being an inch longer than the rear one. You mentioned having to grind the side down to fit into the bracket. Was that still true on when you used the RR on the LF?

That is correct. had to trim off roughly 1/4" on each side. I used a hand grinder with a zipcut wheel.
 
I have yet to clear the KDSS light on my dash... currently living with it at the moment.


May I ask what did the shop do to delete? did they remove the hydraulic pistons and leave the bar disconnected on drivers side? or did they install something in place of the hydraulic pistons?

Hey, I never receive notifications in my own mailbox from the site when a new message is posted. Only if I connect to this site.

In any case, they basically replaced the KDSS with the standard SR5 suspension. The holes are already there but the shop had to find the correct rod to fit, or adapat one, into the openings. I am sorry I don't know the exact names of the parts. All the KDSS tidbits were removed including hydraulics. I was warned it would probably leaked somewhat after the mod but it didn't.
 

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