KDSS worth it?

You are a unique fellow to do what you do and still run sway bars!

Perhaps you need to amend your post to read "hard-core modders", lol. After all, it's the incompatibility of the KDSS with extensive modding that makes it worthless; not how hard core you use the truck :)
 
Damn, I guess I'm not a hard core off roader then because my KDSS is still hooked up and works just fine. :D

I just like the articulation of a SAS with no sway bars. It's like a mule with ADD on Aderall, staring at all the little rocks. It makes driving over the bad stuff easier because the truck always has all four wheels planted, and the travel with a SAS rig with no sway bars is ridiculous. I can also appreciate that such a vehicle isn't something that is in any way as driveable around town as my TE, but there's a price for everything.

Honestly I haven't really wheeled either of my 4Runners. I think if it came down to it, I wouldn't know how.
 
^^Showoff. Completely stock KDSS mini-flex
But it's still flexing pretty good. I can't think of a single situation I've been in where I said "damn, if only I didn't have my sway bars on I could've made it". With a long travel setup it's a totally different story.

I just like the articulation of a SAS with no sway bars.
It's just different. You choose different lines and still have lots of fun.
 
You can definitely fully disconnect/remove all the hydraulic components and basically just leave the electrical components open. The only issue left is the getting rid of the KDSS check light, which might be a simple work around on paper, but inconclusive because [MENTION=74569]SOcalTRAIL[/MENTION] gave up trying to bypass it, lol. As far as I understand it does not seem to cause any main ECU check lights, and only affects the KDSS ecu, so it shouldn't cause the truck to be running in limp mode with the KDSS light on.

One thing I've always wondered is, if you can some how figure out how to adapt the passenger side "solid" bushing arm onto the driver side in place of the KDSS pistons. If it could work, you'd pretty much be able to keep the sway bars intact and just lose the off-road benefits.

Anyway, it sounds like you're on the right path to fixing it, hopefully swapping out all those bad shocks in each corner help alleviate most of the clucking!

An update...Lolrax finally got his KDSS Clunk fixed (Exact same symptoms as mine). It was the rear swaybar bushing between the KDSS piston and the swaybar. Part # 48818-60020. It seems weird that a $20 bushing would fail in 50k miles..... Here is his post for anyone interested:

Club Lexus Forums - View Single Post - Rear Suspension Rattle

I am going to replace the 2 rear bushings first before I do anything else, and if that helps, replace the 4 in the front. If that does the trick, I may be able to hold on to that seeping $1300 AVS suspension for alittle longer!
 
An update...Lolrax finally got his KDSS Clunk fixed (Exact same symptoms as mine). It was the rear swaybar bushing between the KDSS piston and the swaybar. Part # 48818-60020. It seems weird that a $20 bushing would fail in 50k miles..... Here is his post for anyone interested:

Club Lexus Forums - View Single Post - Rear Suspension Rattle

I am going to replace the 2 rear bushings first before I do anything else, and if that helps, replace the 4 in the front. If that does the trick, I may be able to hold on to that seeping $1300 AVS suspension for alittle longer!

Nice that it's a cheap fix!

If you do end up doing the replacement yourself the rear bushings are pretty easy to access and put back together with a little bit of muscle; but the front ones are another story. It's going to require some more finesse to get the bar back into place. Not positive, but maybe you can use the KDSS lift install thread I made as a guide to disconnecting and reconnecting the front and rear sway bars. Hopefully it's similar enough. Good luck :)
 
Nice that it's a cheap fix!

If you do end up doing the replacement yourself the rear bushings are pretty easy to access and put back together with a little bit of muscle; but the front ones are another story. It's going to require some more finesse to get the bar back into place. Not positive, but maybe you can use the KDSS lift install thread I made as a guide to disconnecting and reconnecting the front and rear sway bars. Hopefully it's similar enough. Good luck :)

Thanks, I saw that thread awhile back, I'll go through it again for the rear sway bar disconnect. I'll start off with the rear, and see if that helps atleast the rear, then go from there.
 
Thanks, I saw that thread awhile back, I'll go through it again for the rear sway bar disconnect. I'll start off with the rear, and see if that helps atleast the rear, then go from there.

You should not have any problems doing this yourself. Let me know if you need any help. I have performed lift installs on two KDSS equipped Runners with no issues. My garage is open if you need assistance.
 
KDSS explained.

Look at the picture on post 36. The KDSS piston is controlling one of the sway bar pivots. Without KDSS, that pivot would be fixed to the frame. The Upper chamber of the KDSS cylinders (above the piston), both front and rear, are connected together and the lower chambers are connected also. The little accumulators are to allow small bumps to be "ignored" at the other piston.

In the case of body roll, both pistons move together in the same direction. Since the chambers under compression are connected, the sway bar pivot controlled by the KDSS does not move significantly and the sway bars act normally preventing body roll.

Off-road on an offset-hole uphill, the right front wheel goes up, the right rear wheel goes down, the left front goes down, and the left rear goes up. The KDSS piston in the left front cylinder goes down, and since the KDSS piston on the left rear goes up, the KDSS reinforces the articulation, allowing the sway bar pivots to follow the movement of the left wheels. This acts like the sway bars are disconnected except that the KDSS hydraulics reinforce the articulation by allowing and helping the sway bar pivots to move up and down.

KDSS would not help nose dive under braking or squat under acceleration, but to control roll on-road and articulation off-road, it seems like a great idea.

I can think of two possible problems with a suspension lift with KDSS: the changed angle of the sway bar arms cause problems; and longer travel suspension may be too much for the KDSS cylinders.

I hope this helps.
 
I can think of two possible problems with a suspension lift with KDSS: the changed angle of the sway bar arms cause problems; and longer travel suspension may be too much for the KDSS cylinders.
Only option for long travel in front has increased track width, so no go there without creating a longer sway bar. In the rear, the limiting factor is the KDSS sway bar impacting the track bar, mine does this even without long travel.
 
On my third TE and the first one with kdss. Only question I ask is why did I buy a TE w/o kdss. Mostly pavement riding and day night difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Prospective 4Runner buyer here. I currently have a WRX and whenever I hit a pothole, it feels and sounds like my car is going to break in half. I'm over that feeling. I know that KDSS limits the body sway so that the truck feels tighter but does this come with a giant THUD whenever I hit a pothole? I've test driven an SR5 and it feels like I'm riding on a cloud but there are no dealers with TRD Off-Roads available for a test drive.
 
I think KDSS is probably worth it for most people.

For pure street performance I really like the XREAS system a bit more, the Limited definitely feels and rides like a street tuned truck.

Personally for the off-road enthusiast I think it's better without... I completely removed the sway bars off my 4th Gen and just better off-road, but it feels a lot different at speed. Adjustable shocks go a long way for street tuning here but I have to be more conservative on-road in general.

For mixed use, which is probably most 5th Gen owners (hopefully), I think KDSS is a good compromise, but I think I would have some reservations if you feel you are going to get mod happy with suspension.

If you plan on leaving the truck stock for the better part of its street-centric life with some weekend warrior off-road driving I say go for it.
 
Pretty much was forced to buy it as nothing in CA appears to be sold without it. Test drove an SR5 Premium without it and thought it felt great (granted I've been driving a CR-V so I guess that should be the case?).

Looking forward to the KDSS, though from what I've been told by some, once I do a lift it's practically useless? Not sure if true, but being that won't happen immediately I'm sure I'll get some use out of the KDSS.
 

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