1engineer
Moderator
You are a unique fellow to do what you do and still run sway bars!Damn, I guess I'm not a hard core off roader then because my KDSS is still hooked up and works just fine.![]()
You are a unique fellow to do what you do and still run sway bars!Damn, I guess I'm not a hard core off roader then because my KDSS is still hooked up and works just fine.![]()
You are a unique fellow to do what you do and still run sway bars!


Anyway, compared to your front measurement, that's a good ~10mm increase!
^^Showoff. Completely stock KDSS mini-flex :bounce:
Damn, I guess I'm not a hard core off roader then because my KDSS is still hooked up and works just fine.![]()
But it's still flexing pretty good. I can't think of a single situation I've been in where I said "damn, if only I didn't have my sway bars on I could've made it". With a long travel setup it's a totally different story.^^Showoff. Completely stock KDSS mini-flex
It's just different. You choose different lines and still have lots of fun.I just like the articulation of a SAS with no sway bars.
You can definitely fully disconnect/remove all the hydraulic components and basically just leave the electrical components open. The only issue left is the getting rid of the KDSS check light, which might be a simple work around on paper, but inconclusive because [MENTION=74569]SOcalTRAIL[/MENTION] gave up trying to bypass it, lol. As far as I understand it does not seem to cause any main ECU check lights, and only affects the KDSS ecu, so it shouldn't cause the truck to be running in limp mode with the KDSS light on.
One thing I've always wondered is, if you can some how figure out how to adapt the passenger side "solid" bushing arm onto the driver side in place of the KDSS pistons. If it could work, you'd pretty much be able to keep the sway bars intact and just lose the off-road benefits.
Anyway, it sounds like you're on the right path to fixing it, hopefully swapping out all those bad shocks in each corner help alleviate most of the clucking!
An update...Lolrax finally got his KDSS Clunk fixed (Exact same symptoms as mine). It was the rear swaybar bushing between the KDSS piston and the swaybar. Part # 48818-60020. It seems weird that a $20 bushing would fail in 50k miles..... Here is his post for anyone interested:
Club Lexus Forums - View Single Post - Rear Suspension Rattle
I am going to replace the 2 rear bushings first before I do anything else, and if that helps, replace the 4 in the front. If that does the trick, I may be able to hold on to that seeping $1300 AVS suspension for alittle longer!
Nice that it's a cheap fix!
If you do end up doing the replacement yourself the rear bushings are pretty easy to access and put back together with a little bit of muscle; but the front ones are another story. It's going to require some more finesse to get the bar back into place. Not positive, but maybe you can use the KDSS lift install thread I made as a guide to disconnecting and reconnecting the front and rear sway bars. Hopefully it's similar enough. Good luck![]()
Thanks, I saw that thread awhile back, I'll go through it again for the rear sway bar disconnect. I'll start off with the rear, and see if that helps atleast the rear, then go from there.
Only option for long travel in front has increased track width, so no go there without creating a longer sway bar. In the rear, the limiting factor is the KDSS sway bar impacting the track bar, mine does this even without long travel.I can think of two possible problems with a suspension lift with KDSS: the changed angle of the sway bar arms cause problems; and longer travel suspension may be too much for the KDSS cylinders.