Searching hi and lo for this but too many misleading paths.... I've had some body work done on my 2001 SR5 (rear passenger 1/4), and now the keyless remote will not work, or program properly. There're no acknowledge beeps or anything. A keyless remote tech said he thinks the sensor might be in that rear 1/4 panel? Where can I check for this? What is the device called? Where is it wired? FYI I have two working key fobs since before the accident. Thanks
Keyless remote sensor location?
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brillo_76
Elite Member
The module is in your rear door hatch. Toyota calls them a rear door but hatch eliminates the confusion. 1996 thru 2000 under the drivers seat.
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So of course I forgot to say that we replaced the rear hatch door also, along with that quarter panel. So either they didn't replace the module, or they left the used one in and it needs some sort of reprogramming or something? I think the shop may still have my damaged rear door in the junk pile. I spun in heavy weather and hit a concrete ledge backwards right across the D-pillar and tail light. I'll dig into the parts diagrams too for reference. Thanks!
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would swap your module. I sure hope they matched your chassis wiring with the replacement.
As the years are not compatible.
I suspect your original module will fix your issue provided the wiring matches the vehicle.
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Endlessblockades
Senior Member
It there any way to extend the reception? Mine loses communication at 10 feet and sometimes less...
RodrickHeffley
Member
IIRC, there is a wire that comes off the RS3000 box that is the antenna wire, however that might be for the 3200, I remember reading about an antenna of some kind while doing research on the security systems, but I can't remember for sure
since you have a 3200 (I presume as you have a 2000, I believe this will help: OEM Keyless entry extended range MOD | Tacoma World)
phattyduck
Elite Member
Minor correction - '99-'02 is in the rear door (hatch), not just '01/'02. '96-'98 is only part of the RS3000 alarm, dealer/port installed.The module is in your rear door hatch. Toyota calls them a rear door but hatch eliminates the confusion. 1996 thru 2000 under the drivers seat.
-Charlie
RodrickHeffley
Member
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Thank you for that write-up link! Well into it, someone on the Taco forum mentioned the same results from a new $60 OEM fob. I wonder if that's true (lazy me has joined the chat)?
blarchitect
Member
Keyless beeper is under the hood on passenger fender near hood hinge.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Good catch.. Thank you Charlie. I didn't think it went back to 99..
So it matches the fat lip and the headlight change..Just a couple of notes about the coil procedure:
1: With bare wire coiled up that way, it's all shorted to the point nearest the insulation. Thus, the "length" of the bare wire is no longer than the point closest to the insulation where the coils all touch. IF the wire had remained insulated, it would have an increased "length". As it is, the only length gain you get is the insulated portion of the wire. Running it up the A-pillar that way, you DO receive an increase in the antenna's length. But the coil of bare wire is just a big, single wrap inductor.
2: The plastic or rubber insulation the wire used is covered with has virtually no impact on the radio waves used by the fobs. Leaving the insulation on, and making a coil that way, you make a large, heavy duty inductor. A single loop of the insulated wire does more to increase the receiver's sensitivity. The wire wraps on the CB antennas are insulated, and evenly spaced. This increases the antenna's length, essentially. One method that could be used is to wrap the insulated wire around the wire bundle, as evenly as possible. Using the wire's as a core, however, adds some capacitance that may affect the antenna's properties. It's response to the specific frequencies the fobs use.
The best thing to do, if possible, would be to run the added wire up the A pillar, and then across the front of the roof. Heck, if you're going that far, running the wire all the way around the edge of the roof gains the greatest length, and, being so close to all the windows, and windshield, allows for the best possible reception. There's a reason, however, that CB antennas, in the old days, were tuned by clipping short lengths of cable off until the transmit strength was maxxed out. Now, they're tuned at the factory.
I'd wager the receiver for the fobs in the truck is of the best length for the frequencies the fobs use. Adding wire just allows for better routing.
3: Just so you know my credentials, I was a Radar Technician my entire working life, with the Navy's equivalent of a BSEE. The final 15 years of my working life, I was the Lead Electronics Tech for a US Customs Aerostat site.
Have fun, all!
Pat☺
1: With bare wire coiled up that way, it's all shorted to the point nearest the insulation. Thus, the "length" of the bare wire is no longer than the point closest to the insulation where the coils all touch. IF the wire had remained insulated, it would have an increased "length". As it is, the only length gain you get is the insulated portion of the wire. Running it up the A-pillar that way, you DO receive an increase in the antenna's length. But the coil of bare wire is just a big, single wrap inductor.
2: The plastic or rubber insulation the wire used is covered with has virtually no impact on the radio waves used by the fobs. Leaving the insulation on, and making a coil that way, you make a large, heavy duty inductor. A single loop of the insulated wire does more to increase the receiver's sensitivity. The wire wraps on the CB antennas are insulated, and evenly spaced. This increases the antenna's length, essentially. One method that could be used is to wrap the insulated wire around the wire bundle, as evenly as possible. Using the wire's as a core, however, adds some capacitance that may affect the antenna's properties. It's response to the specific frequencies the fobs use.
The best thing to do, if possible, would be to run the added wire up the A pillar, and then across the front of the roof. Heck, if you're going that far, running the wire all the way around the edge of the roof gains the greatest length, and, being so close to all the windows, and windshield, allows for the best possible reception. There's a reason, however, that CB antennas, in the old days, were tuned by clipping short lengths of cable off until the transmit strength was maxxed out. Now, they're tuned at the factory.
I'd wager the receiver for the fobs in the truck is of the best length for the frequencies the fobs use. Adding wire just allows for better routing.
3: Just so you know my credentials, I was a Radar Technician my entire working life, with the Navy's equivalent of a BSEE. The final 15 years of my working life, I was the Lead Electronics Tech for a US Customs Aerostat site.
Have fun, all!
Pat☺
phattyduck
Elite Member
Not exactly. The back door ECU handles wireless reception from the OEM remote and rear door functions (window, wiper and their safety interlocks) and communicates to the body ECU via the multiplex communication bus. There is no 'security system' in that function.
Security functions are done by an (optional) RS3200 system that plugs in up front at/near the body ECU. The body ECU controls a number of 'body' functions like the keyless beeper (in the engine bay), door lock/unlock, auto headlight off, etc.
The Limiteds for '99+ (and maybe other trims optionally in later years?) also got a SEPARATE immobilizer system that works between the key cylinder and ECU.
-Charlie
RodrickHeffley
Member
That's good to know, I've been trying to research these systems, but there's so little information on them that I can't find enough to get started.
As far as I know from my research if I'm not mistaken there are one of two systems that could have been installed, one with lock/unlock and rear window roll down (which I was led to think is part of the body ecu from what I have read) and another that just locks and unlocks (which I believe is the base RS3200). I've been trying to figure out what does what exactly in that regard so I can begin working backwards to add in the rear window function system to my 98.
I guess I need to just try and find a security system in a junkyard from one of these and get to work with a multimeter to figure out what functions do what. The only hurdle I've been stuck on is how to tell which system a vehicle has, if it was equipped with one.
Worst case scenario, I can use the RS3000 remote with its strange dual-system buttons between two separate RS3000 systems in my 4runner, one system can be the OEM security, tied to one button on the remote, and I can make the other button roll down and up the window with a separate system.
Time will tell, I really just need to find a few security boxes to tinker with at a junkyard.
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OP here. I'm going to see if I can recover the rear hatch wiring from the damaged door (if they still have it in the junk pile) of my 2001 SR5. I'm not sure of the year on the door we installed but I may be able to find out from the body shop buyer, or maybe a S/N or something. All this sounds daunting to sort out!! :shocked:
phattyduck
Elite Member
My understanding is that the '96-'98 never had the ability to roll down the rear window remotely. I'd be happy to be corrected by a '96-'97 owner. I only used a '97 SR5 as a parts truck (but have pulled an RS3000 out of it - yes, it is an ugly mess of wires).
The '99-'02 only has the ability to remotely roll the rear window DOWN, not up. To roll it up, you have to use the key in the rear hatch or the dash button.
-Charlie
RodrickHeffley
Member
yeah you're correct about them not being able to roll down remotely, that's what I'm looking to add to my 98, using either another RS3000, RS3200, or something else one way or the other, it's just going to be a lot of wiring that I need to research first
Update: I took the rear door (hatch) apart and confirmed it has the orange box ECU unit and all the wires in the assembly look in great condition. The body shop manager did indeed scrap the old door. However, he says they always pull and replace the electronics and wiring of the original units unless they are too damaged during the incident. The new door from LKQ Parts was a '00 SR5 model he thinks, but is checking. So all the wire harnesses and plugs matched. The wire harness of replacement door at hinge area was cut coming from LKQ, so that sort of confirmed he indeed swapped the wiring. All the wiring including the hinge area was in great condition with black tape mostly intact everywhere. Attached is a photo of the ECU unit and P/N checks out for '01 compatibility. So the question is, like someone asked here, is this unit also the remote receiver for door lock/unlock? Also note, I confirm all functions of door lock/unlock, window up/down with dash switch, window up/down with key, wiper, operate as they should. Just not any remote function. I tried to reprogram myself via youtube instruction, and I hired a keyless remote tech to also try to reprogram. there was never any beep or flash to indicate anything was communicating during the reprogramming. Also, I have the "beeper" in the front passenger fender by the hinge. What's next?
And apparently I need to figure out how to add a photo here
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And apparently I need to figure out how to add a photo here
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