KidV's 1985 4Runner

Scored a replacement drivers seat today to replace the existing one, it had a broken bolt on one side and wasn't stable. New one is completely intact, and even has the lumbar adjustment knobs and such, woohoo! Not bad for $25.
 
Picked up my gear install kit from one of the local vendors today for a screaming deal, still looking for an empty or busted third to put these gears in. I can always regear one of the 4.10s, but I'd rather sell 'em.

The drivers door has a busted knob on the wing window, torn and useless weatherstripping, and a rusted spot that makes it not worth fixing anything else on it, so I started a door swap this morning. I grabbed a door from a local fellow (looks like this), and it's absolutely gorgeous and I think I'm going to paint the whole truck exactly like that. I'm in the middle of converting the full-length window to my wing window setup, which is kindof a PITA, but I think I've got it figured out.
 
Sunnuva*****.

Got the new tie rods on today with a minimum of hassle, but I couldn't get the alignment dialed in so off to the corner shop I go. My guy says "no wonder you can't align this, your wheel bearings are shot and there's too much play in your drag link". I think he's wrong, I can barely feel any play at either spot but what do I know, I'm just a driveway monkey.

I just about had enough socked away to get my thirds regeared, now I'm gonna have to blow that on wheel bearings and a drag link rebuild kit. Not to mention take the time to rebuild the knuckles while I'm in there, which I didn't want to do yet. This truck is pissing me off, lol.

Anyway, here she sits on the 33s. Not for long, because there's no way I'm going to drive around on $1000 of rubber with a jacked alignment, but whatever. Maybe I'll get busy and get the entire front end rebuilt this weekend and just leave them on. Maybe monkeys will fly outa my butt, too. :flipoff:

IMAG0724_zps9b7678f8.jpg~original
 
The bearings look fine, but there was ZERO preload on the nuts - I spun them off with my fingers, didn't even need the 54mm socket. I might go get new bearings just because of that.

In other horrible news, soup in the knuckle. So it's gonna be a full teardown, I didn't want to do this until I was ready to regear that third dangit.
 
I just about had enough socked away to get my thirds regeared....wheel bearings and a drag link rebuild kit....take the time to rebuild the knuckles while I'm in there, which I didn't want to do yet.

a decade's worth of building race-ready watercooled VWs taught me this:

slow down. take your time. do it right the first time. do it all at once (if possible).

it's all worth it in the end. it's even nicer if you have something else to drive in the meantime.

patiently waiting to blow t4r up with advice on rebuilding this....

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sorry to hijack your thread but nobody likes mine lol. this is a stupid question but i need to verify, po has a wire going from the driver kick panel fuse box through the fire wall and back to the fuel pump. i know it makes the pump hot at key on. is it safe to assume they were to lazy to replace the relay and thats all i need to do to get it right? thanks...:shrug:
 
Everything is going back together now - slowly, because I only get a few hours a morning to work on it, but I should be done in another day or two. Working around all the filthy oil-cake definitely slowed things down, but everything is cleaned up now. Got the knuckles on and trunion preload fiddled with this morning. I still need to pop the birfields open so I can clean and grease them properly, then bolt everything else up.

Separating the draglink from the DS steering arm was a nightmare. The pitman end came off easy enough, but the ball socket on the other side was literally fused to the draglink with rust. Three days of propane, PB Blast, and BFH didn't free it, I ended up taking it into a machine shop. Red at Hunter Machine got it red hot and still had to work at it for over a minute with the air hammer to get it to come free.

It didn't make a dang bit of sense to have the diff empty and the axles pulled and then NOT yank the third and regear it, so I scraped up the cash and 5.29's are now in the truck, with the Spartan in the rear. So much for wheeling the truck stock, right? I'm talking to a fellow about picking up his used BudBuilt transfer case skid, if I score that I'll install it at the same time as the 4.7 case and I'll be ready to rock.

SWCRunner, I wish I had the luxury of taking my time. With time on my hands, I'd have pulled the axle and done all the work on my bench, I'd have stripped and painted everything, and I'd have taken the opportunity to armor the axle and brace the knuckle balls and steering stops.

But it's a daily driver, and I don't have a backup, so I'm forced to go at it quick and dirty. I'm going to start watching for a deal on a complete axle that I CAN take my time with and do it right.

patiently waiting to blow t4r up with advice on rebuilding this....

537586_10152613512345517_136739691_n.jpg

It's actually pretty straightforward - of course, it always is with hindsight, right? I worked from the FSM and Roger Brown's (4Crawler's) writeup and didn't run into anything that slowed me down other than rust and dirt. Get the complete Trail Gear rebuild kit with fresh bearings, I loved knowing I had all the replaceable parts and gaskets and such sitting there waiting for me, I didn't have to worry about whether I'd forgotten something.

You'll certainly want a complete set of tools. I found my pickle fork very hand for separating the trunion bearings from the steering arms and end caps, I had to drive all over town to find a place that had a brass punch on the shelf, and you're going to want a pull scale - I grabbed one for weighing fish from the sporting goods store. If you haven't played with cone washers before you're in for a treat, and from the looks of that axle it might be a really fun treat. :)
 
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sorry to hijack your thread but nobody likes mine lol. this is a stupid question but i need to verify, po has a wire going from the driver kick panel fuse box through the fire wall and back to the fuel pump. i know it makes the pump hot at key on. is it safe to assume they were to lazy to replace the relay and thats all i need to do to get it right? thanks...:shrug:

I'm not a wiring guy at all, but that seems like a fair assumption!
 
Lookin good! Man I swear my picklefork is my superhero tool. I've found that it is the perfect size to slide in behind a grinder blade to grab the nut incase the spindle lock breaks.
 
nice build! i like to see a slow budget build like mine haha. how's your stock steering holding up? i suppose i'm gonna have to go crossover here soon too but i really haven't had too much trouble
 
nice build! i like to see a slow budget build like mine haha. how's your stock steering holding up? i suppose i'm gonna have to go crossover here soon too but i really haven't had too much trouble

I don't have room for highsteer with the OME lift, so until I figure out a low crossover, it is what it is. :)
 
Regular high steer arms won't work. I could have custom ones made, but that's bucks. A friend turned me on to a quick and cheep low crossover that I'm looking into, if it works out I'll post details.

Cool if you needed high steer i have a brand new pair left over from my SAC, that's why I asked. Good Luck and post up the details. :peace:
 
So glad spring is here. Front axle is back together and I'm rolling around my driveway putting my thirds back in, and I'm NOT freezing my arse off. It's great, 65 degrees and climbing, woo hoo!

Tonight I go pick up the used BudBuilt crossmember I just scored, and then tomorrow the 4.7 case goes in. Saturday I intend to hit the hills with a whole crew of miscreants and get this truck dirty,
 
nice progress! i'm feelin the good weather as well, unfortunately i'm trapped behind a desk rather than under my truck.
how much did the bud-bilt cost ya? i've been throwin around the idea of making my own
 

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