mikebontoft
New member
oh yeah... guess I'll head up the rear from now on. don't expect me to stay behind if it's a flat out race though
KidV's 1985 4Runner
- Thread starter KidVermicious
- Start date
oh yeah... guess I'll head up the rear from now on. don't expect me to stay behind if it's a flat out race though
KidVermicious
New member
So, the 22RE and 3RZ motor mounts appear to be identical. The location is different on the frame, though, it won't just bolt in like I was hoping for a second there. Once I get the old 22RE out I'll decide if I want to relocate the motor mount location on the frame or hack up the mount and offset it between the motor and frame, like the Chilkat conversion mount. I need to eyeball the motor in the bay before I'll make up my mind on that. I hear the intake plenum can interfere with the larger dual-diaghram booster that's patiently waiting on my shelf, so I'll have to keep that in mind.
I may have the wrong computer. I just read that '97 was the first year of the distributorless ignition, but this block is definitely designed around a distributor, making it a '96 or '95. The computer is labeled '97. I'll need to do some more digging, see if there's a serial number or something on the block I can use to ID it and figure this out. I'd like to keep the distributor, it's supposed to be easier to wire. It might be cheaper to use the computer I've got and convert to coil packs though?
I may have the wrong computer. I just read that '97 was the first year of the distributorless ignition, but this block is definitely designed around a distributor, making it a '96 or '95. The computer is labeled '97. I'll need to do some more digging, see if there's a serial number or something on the block I can use to ID it and figure this out. I'd like to keep the distributor, it's supposed to be easier to wire. It might be cheaper to use the computer I've got and convert to coil packs though?
mikebontoft
New member
it shouldn't be an issue either way. Might be a little harder to wire, but if you get the coil pack harness along with it, it would be easier. you also wouldn't have to worry about timing trouble.
KidVermicious
New member
These bearings look practically brand new. That's encouraging.
mikebontoft
New member
Encouraging... or concerning.
KidVermicious
New member
Shut up.
KidVermicious
New member
Mileage is unknown, but I think it's been into at least once, the RTV on the pan looked fresh. The scuff marks on the bearings are very few, and utterly superficial, I can't feel them at all. The journal is completely unmarked, no visible scratches or pitting at all. Clearance is .04ish on the ones I've checked, but I'm going to look at the other mains and the rod bearings too just to be sure.
I'm no expert, but this looks like a fresh rebuild to me.
I'm no expert, but this looks like a fresh rebuild to me.
mikebontoft
New member
Right so leave it alone. and triple check your torque on those bearing caps.
The main bearing clearance is .04? :wow: Way too much clearance between the bearing shell, and main journal.
Just looking at the specs for the 3RZ-FE, main bearing clearance is listed as:
No. 3: 0.0012-0.0022
All others: 0.0009-0.0019
How are you checking the clearance? Using a Micrometer to measure the journal and bearing shells would be ideal.
If using Plastigage, the journal and bearing shell must be free of oil. Oil will affect the reading.
So once the cap with the bearing shell is removed, spray some brake clean on a clean rag, and clean the oil off the main journal, and the bearing shell.
When the journal and bearing shell are dry, then place the plastigage on the journal, place the cap in place and torque to spec.
Step 1: 29 ft. lbs
Step 2: 90° turn
Make sure the crank doesn't move while torquing down the cap, or while removing the cap. If the crank moves, do the measurement again. Then measure the Plastigage. Ideally you would measure the clearance in several spots, for each bearing.
I'd check the rod journal clearance too.
Connecting rod journal clearance is: 0.0012-0.0022
Of course once all the bearing clearances are in spec, you'll want to put some assembly lube, or at least motor oil on the bearing shells and journals, when assembling the final time.
KidVermicious
New member
.04 mm, sorry
. And yeah, I'm just using plastigauge. No fancy micrometer or dial gauge here, though I'm going to need one shortly for the transfer case rebuild I've been putting off.http://www.markofshame.com/fsm/01_Tacoma/Seperates/Service manual/119.pdf
The bearings all measured in spec, and they all had that new look to them. The thrust clearances were all good too. I'm not going to dig any farther into the bottom end, this thing is fresh. The timing chain and guides look new, and the valves that I've checked so far are all in spec too. I only barely got started with that before knocking off for the morning - I'll check the rest of the valves just to be sure because there's a little variance in the ones I've looked at, and then I'm going to call this motor good and move on. I think I'll run a break-in procedure once I've got it installed just in case, it looks that new in there.
Got some goodies from LCE in the mail today, just a valve shim tool that I might not even need and some intake studs and other little stuff. Got an Aisin clutch kit on the way too. If the weather cooperates, I'll start pulling the 22RE tomorrow or Monday!
KidVermicious
New member
I'm glad I checked them, several valves are out of spec. That means pulling the cams and replacing shims, then putting everything back and checking clearance again, pulling them to replace shims again, I think I liked the 22RE valves better.
mikebontoft
New member
yeah it sure takes awhile... I had to do that on a Jag V8. 16 valves per head.
KidVermicious
New member
Took advantage of a break in the rain to finish pulling the old motor. Now you see it:
Now you don't.
Filthy filthy engine bay. I'm going to finish the valves on the new motor, then I'm going to rent a pressure washer and clean the hell out of the bay. I think I'm going to drop the trans and clean it and the rest of the undercarriage while I'm at it, it's all gross from a front main leak I had a while back. Just nasty.
Now you don't.
Filthy filthy engine bay. I'm going to finish the valves on the new motor, then I'm going to rent a pressure washer and clean the hell out of the bay. I think I'm going to drop the trans and clean it and the rest of the undercarriage while I'm at it, it's all gross from a front main leak I had a while back. Just nasty.
Be careful where you point the pressure washer. That much water pressure can easily get past seals on electrical connectors, and mechanical components like the joints in your steering linkage for example.
Unseen corrosion on electrical connectors, can lead to a diagnostic hassle.
Unseen corrosion on electrical connectors, can lead to a diagnostic hassle.
KidVermicious
New member
Copy that. I'm pulling the harness anyway, and I'll bag anything else that might not like high pressure soap.
Hyde802
New member
Took advantage of a break in the rain to finish pulling the old motor. Now you see it:
Now you don't.
.
Did your check engine light some on when that happened?
Im so pumped for this swap! This things gonna rip.
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