KidV's 1985 4Runner

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My 140 amp alternator from the 22RE next to the 3RZ alternator. I'll have to change pulleys because the 3RZ uses a different belt. I'll have to figure out a plug adapter too, they're both three-wire so that shouldn't be hard. It bolted straight up to the block though, no fab work or bracket modification necessary.
 
It's worse than that, I think the stock 22RE alt is only good for 50 or 60 amps.

Can I say I love the tension adjuster on the 3RZ bracket? That'll be so much easier than the old "lever the alternator out with your pickle fork while you try and tighten the adjustment bolt" method. If I ever build a 22RE truck again, I'm totally snagging a 3RZ adjustment bracket for it.
 
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Slave cylinders are identical. The one from my truck is only two years old, I'll use it and hold onto the other for a spare. It looks like I can reuse the clutch fork too, though I'll be replacing the throwout bearing while I'm in there.

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This is awesome! Ive always wondered how this motor would perform in one of these trucks. Better yet, your doing the swap so the write-up will be readable. Thanks for all the help you provide on this site, when this swap is all said and done, a lot of us may have to copy you haha
:snacker:
 
Got the clutch line bent around without too much trouble, but I'm seriously considering getting a brand new hard line and replacing it anyway. It'd be cleaner.

I think I can unbolt the fuel hard lines and bend them up over behind the bell housing and get them swapped the same way, but I want to hang the motor in the bay and see where everything lines up before I start that. It might be worth having a shop make me a nice long flexy stainless fuel line instead.

Picked up my shims today ($120!!!), but didn't have time to install them. That's first thing on the list tomorrow morning, and then I can put the head back together and take the motor off the stand. The cams look like half-priced crap but I can't afford to do anything about that now, so I'll run them and make sure that a set of LCE cams is next on the goodies list. That'll probably mean more shims. Yay.
 
Bahahaha! I brought the wife in to see this and she was like 'why would someone do that?'
I DID tell her it wasnt you

I appreciate that! The Skittle and most of my stash of 22RE junk is off to a new home, hopefully the next owner of that motor has some better luck with it.
 
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My 140 amp alternator from the 22RE next to the 3RZ alternator. I'll have to change pulleys because the 3RZ uses a different belt. I'll have to figure out a plug adapter too, they're both three-wire so that shouldn't be hard. It bolted straight up to the block though, no fab work or bracket modification necessary.

I'm running a 22RE alternator on my 3RZ, just throw the stock 3RZ pulley on and the 3 wires were the same color on mine (Red Yellow White) but mine was the old style plug, I think they changed that in 83.
 
Sunnuva***** I did the exhaust valve shims backwards :mad:. They were already too tight, and like a dumbass I ordered thicker shims. I'm so pissed right now.

Looks like the intake shims I took off were a little thinner than the exhaust shims, I'll go through the shims I took off and find the thinnest and figure out where I need them and maybe I won't have to reorder too many more shims. Those stupid things aren't cheap.

Did I say sunnuva***** yet? Sunnuva*****.
 
So I didn't have any leftover shims thin enough, and had to order more. That hurt, those things aren't cheap.

While I'm waiting, I'm messing around with other little stuff. Toyota didn't design the PS idler to be serviceable - the bearing is staked into the pulley instead of held in with a snap ring, and they want to sell you an entire new idler bracket with pulley for waaaaaaaaaaaay too much. I googled around for a bit and couldn't find anything but a couple forum posts from guys who didn't want to pony up the dough. I don't wanna pony up the dough either, screw that. I've got a hammer.

Mangled the stakes:
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Went to work with a socket:
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Three minutes later, one idler pulley bearing, NSK6301DUX. I bet the new one costs me less than $10. Take that, Toyota.
 
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I want to take the valve cover somewhere and get it nice and clean and pretty. I understand you can't hot tank aluminum, and the valve cover baffle isn't designed to come off, so how do I get it clean under there? Do the machine shops have a chemical bath that won't eat the aluminum?
 
My .02, when you install the new bearing, don't use that same socket sitting on the inner race. Transferring the force needed to install the bearing through the bearing itself, will leave dimples in the balls and/or the races. Use a socket or bearing driver that fits the diameter of the outer race.

Also, heating the pulley slightly, and putting the bearing in the freezer for a few hours, will help with the installation.

As for cleaning under the baffle of the valve cover, any Machine shop or Plating shop should have a jet washer to clean Aluminum parts. Think of it as being like a serious dishwasher.
 
Kev if you need any greasy/dirty parts cleaned up just let me know and I can throw em in the parts washer. They don't come out perfect but it gets em nice and cleaned up. It's a jet washer as well.
 
Thanks for the hookup, [MENTION=86948]mikebontoft[/MENTION], it looks a lot better. Hopefully my shims show up today and I can have them replaced and the valve cover back on by tonight. Then I can start working on the new engine mounts.
 
Shiny.

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Glad I sent them in, one was completely stuck.

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Camelback Parts jacked up my second order of shims, sent me the wrong ones, so I'm still at a standstill getting nothing done. Hopefully the correct ones will be here by the weekend.
 

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