KidV's 1985 4Runner

Got it. Edited the post upthread.

I'll look at the wiring and see where the check connector sits in relation to the fuel pump relay.
 
Nights are for research. Daylight is for tinkering. The serial connector is built, and the computer has a home. It's not waterproof, so I can't put it in the kickpanel where the stock computer lived. I decided to mount it in back of the glove box, and used some scraps of rubber to further isolate it from vibration. Next time I pull it out I'm going to go over it with some silicone anyway to at least keep the dust out.

20140903_155311_zps1soneslx.jpg~original


The big hangup now is just working out the dual triggers the computer needs for timing.

I thought this was interesting. With all the hullabaloo over how to make a reliable splice, you'd think the manufacturer would certainly do it "the right way", yeah? Nope. Crimp splices and electrical tape, all through the 3rz harness and now in the 22re harness.

attachment.php


I'm still going to solder and heat shrink everywhere I can, but I'm going to stop worrying about whether it's good enough.
 
The first picture on this page is the diagram we need. I see pin 37 is fuel pump relay control. Test connector would override that I think.

Wiring and Sensors

The test connector under the hood doesn't go to the ECU - I tested good continuity between it and the Circuit Open relay with the ECU pulled, so we could just leave that jumped and have power to the fuel pump with ignition on. I'd rather not bypass it if we don't have to though, and if that pin 37 is live only when the motor is running then we won't have to?

eta - Nevermind. Pin 37 is taking power from the fuel pump relay, so scratch that idea.
 
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thought i'd check in over here, its been quiet lately what you upto kid?

Trying to figure this PITA of an ignition. I should cork that dist port and go to coil over plug, except I ain't starting over now.

The 22RE distributor has a VR sensor in it which serves the same purpose as a cam position sensor. The 3RZ distributor does not have one of those OR a cam position sensor - there's got to be something in the distributor that tells the computer what time it is, but what it's got, what kind of signal it's putting out, and whether or not the Megasquirt can read that signal are all open questions. It doesn't help that I'm stupid or that Mike has a life and can't drop everything to wrench on my junk for me every weekend. If all else fails I can put a Hall sensor on the crank pulley, and if I don't get this figured out in a couple weeks that's exactly what I'm going to do, but I'd really rather not have to do that.

How big of a pain was it to wire/install in the elocker in your front diff? You have to grind the housing down don't you?

Oh man, busted! I haven't actually done that yet, I'm still waiting on delivery of the locker because [MENTION=62048]thardy[/MENTION] can't be bothered to come see his friend once in a while :flipoff:. You've got the right idea but there'sd a little more to it than that - you have to grind out a notch for the elocker motor to fit into the stock housing, then you have to build up some weld outside that notch and drill and tap for the new studs. Go to Google Images and look at the difference between a regular 8" diff gasket and an 8" elocker diff gasket, you'll see what I'm talking about.

The wiring is basic, check out these threads:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/89502-how-diy-retrofit-elocker-wiring.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/172211-e=locker-wiring.html
 
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Lol sorry man I wasn't trying to call you out!

I have done some research on them but not a whole lot. I haven't decided if I want a air or electric locker for the front diff later down the road. The elocker sounds like way too much work though IMO.

Putting one in the back would be a different story though.
 
Maybe I'm being a weenie, but I don't like the idea of anything but a selectable in the front. When you look at the cost of an elocker vs the price of entry for an ARB setup, doing a little retrofit work is a no brainer, I have to save money everywhere I can.

The rear is lots easier - buy a 3gen elocker and housing and slap some leaf spring perches on it. That may actually be what I end up doing, I bought Ty's entire rear housing and I may just shove the whole thing in back and leave the front open for now.

Gotta get the truck running again before I worry about that though.
 
Maybe I'm being a weenie, but I don't like the idea of anything but a selectable in the front. When you look at the cost of an elocker vs the price of entry for an ARB setup, doing a little retrofit work is a no brainer, I have to save money everywhere I can.

The rear is lots easier - buy a 3gen elocker and housing and slap some leaf spring perches on it. That may actually be what I end up doing, I bought Ty's entire rear housing and I may just shove the whole thing in back and leave the front open for now.

Gotta get the truck running again before I worry about that though.

I'm right there with you on nothing but a selectable front locker. I know some people who wheel with a fixed locker in the front and turning on a technical trail did not seem fun.
 
So this just found it's way into my garage...

20141019_125500_zpsuv5gdrkc.jpg~original


I've never welded stick in my life, it'll take some playing with. But once the truck is running again, look out. I'm gonna make some shit.
 

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