KidV's 1985 4Runner

So this just found it's way into my garage...

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I've never welded stick in my life, it'll take some playing with. But once the truck is running again, look out. I'm gonna make some shit.

i just got one too!! have no where to plug it in tho
 
i just got one too!! have no where to plug it in tho

I have 220 on the back deck where somebody used to have a hot tub. I wired up an outdoor box from Lowes and it works fine. I need to check the cable gauge between that box and the breaker though to see if it's up for the 50 amps.
 
Oh man, busted! I haven't actually done that yet, I'm still waiting on delivery of the locker because [MENTION=62048]thardy[/MENTION] can't be bothered to come see his friend once in a while :flipoff:. You've got the right idea but there'sd a little more to it than that - you have to grind out a notch for the elocker motor to fit into the stock housing, then you have to build up some weld outside that notch and drill and tap for the new studs. Go to Google Images and look at the difference between a regular 8" diff gasket and an 8" elocker diff gasket, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Wait a minute here, I didn't figure in delivery or friendship dues (which you are 3 months late on). You better hurry and pay those dues so I can pay Andrew. I payed Brad and Brady last time they came to help on my truck. Oh and You're the one with a pickup!! Some duma$$ decided to sell his and get a bigger car for the baby.:noidea:
 
I have to plug DIYAUTOTUNE.com. I emailed asking for help figuring out the particulars of a Hall sensor/trigger wheel setup, and their tech support found me a different solution that would be easier to implement and cost less - they call it the Zeal daughterboard, and it goes into the same case the Megasquirt sits in. One of the things it does is modulate the signal from the VR pickup in the dizzy into something the Megasquirt can wrap it's head around - perfect! The board I ordered was shipped promptly, I got a Priority Mail tracking number three hours after I hit submit. Dudes are fast.

The board itself comes unassembled, which is intimidating until you realize that in addition to the instructions posted on line, the board has the location for each component printed directly on it, and each component comes individually wrapped with it's part number and it's location on the board printed on a sticker. They've done their best to turn this into a Lego set, and it's great. Of course, you don't have to solder Legos, and that's the part that I'm probably going to screw up.

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I just watched, like, three Youtube videos on assembling a PCB board, so now I'm almost an expert. I'm gonna botch this up anyway though. :tongue1:
 
Nice. Go get a desoldering braid and solder sucker if you don't already have one.

^ This!
It also helps to have a free standing magnifying glass to see the little solder connections. Don't worry too much about appearance either, as long as your solder points are not touching each other, don't worry about it looking fancy. If some points do run together, sometimes you can get away with just scraping some solder away in-between and not have to melt it away and cause further issues.
 
If it were me, I'd use Rosin Core Solder, tin the tip of the soldering iron, and make sure you don't end up with cold solder joints. As that would be annoying to diagnose.
 
Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm using 60/40 rosin core, a 25 watt iron, and I've got a braid but no solder sucker. I think I'll order one though because the braid is a little imprecise.

I also think my iron is not hot enough. I read that you want a low watt iron to avoid burning the board (and the paths on the board), but I think I'm having to hold the iron on the board too long and burning it anyway. Should I get a hotter iron for this?
 
Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm using 60/40 rosin core, a 25 watt iron, and I've got a braid but no solder sucker. I think I'll order one though because the braid is a little imprecise.

I also think my iron is not hot enough. I read that you want a low watt iron to avoid burning the board (and the paths on the board), but I think I'm having to hold the iron on the board too long and burning it anyway. Should I get a hotter iron for this?

Kid - I would HIGHLY recommend a kit like this one. You can most likely pick it up at your local RadioShack...

Make: It Soldering Starter Kit | RadioShack

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:rapture:
 
Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm using 60/40 rosin core, a 25 watt iron, and I've got a braid but no solder sucker. I think I'll order one though because the braid is a little imprecise.

I also think my iron is not hot enough. I read that you want a low watt iron to avoid burning the board (and the paths on the board), but I think I'm having to hold the iron on the board too long and burning it anyway. Should I get a hotter iron for this?

Hey.
I think this link might help you. Potting Solutions Overview of Potting Electonics

Several lifetimes ago I helped develop a process that would waterproof and dampen vibrations for electronics in highly specific hazardous applications. You don't need to go to our extremes so I just gave you a general info link.
 
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Got the Zeal board assembled and connected to the Megasquirt today. Got an email into DIYAUTOTUNE just to make sure I got all the connections correct, and assuming I did the next thing to do is make the connections between the engine harness and the computer (about an hour) and then I can plug into the Megasquirt and start programming. *giggity*

So pretty.
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Not pretty :(. But it should work.
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Making connections on the Zeal board - I bought a $5 jig thing on Amazon and made another with a chunk of solid core wire and a pair of alligator clips. It's like having five hands!
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Tying the Zeal board into the Megasquirt. Assuming I got all the connections correct, I can button these up in the case and be done messing with circuit boards.
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If I had half the patience and understanding that you have KidV, I'm sure I'd have turbo'd my 4Runner by now, but I'm with thardy on this one lol. ^^^

Can't wait to see this up and running.
 

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