Knock sensor bypass on 1990 3.0 v6

[barnett468]

KNOCK SENSOR BYPASS ON 1990 3.0 V6

Does anyone know with 100% certainty how to completely bypass/eliminate the knock sensor on one of these so the check engine light still functions?

I have read over 100 posts regarding this info and only found one that claimed to know how but it didn't understand what they wrote.

Anyone know a mechanic in the Temecula or Lake Elsinore or Riverside area that knows how to successfully do this or at least successfully relocate one so it works.

I have relocated it to a bracket on the head that I made . I tried both a chevy sensor and a replacement toyota sensor both with the new toyota pig tail and neither works . I was considering tapping a bolt hole on the head and installing it directly into the head so it gets more noise and see if that works but I'm not optimistic.

Thanks for any help.

 

[kc15842]

I'm in Elsinore and am not proud to say am using a remote knock sensor. FYI, it wont pass smog with the remote setup.

 

[barnett468]

I'm in Elsinore and am not proud to say am using a remote knock sensor. FYI, it wont pass smog with the remote setup.

i do not care if it passes the visual test . can you explain in detail what worked for you or would you be interested in coming over and taking a look at it to see if you can figure it out? glad to pay whatever is fair.

thanks

this is what i did . the green wire goes directly to ground . the bracket is around 3" long

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[kc15842]

You shouldn't need the green wire if the bracket is bolted to the head. Is the white wire going directly to the ECU?

 

[barnett468]

You shouldn't need the green wire if the bracket is bolted to the head. Is the white wire going directly to the ECU?

Thanks very much for the reply . I added the green wire after my first test failed to insure it was grounded . The white wire goes to the new 12 inch long $20.00 factory Toyota pig tail which plugs into the original harness.

I have not tried to do the complete harness bypass with shielded/coax cable yet and that might be a bit beyond my comfort level . I am a mechanic but I only work on older non computer cars.

I have read that there is supposed to be a 5 volt reference coming from the ecu going to the sensor on the sensor wire but I could not tell if that was accurate for this year and model . I did check for voltage on that wire with the key both on and off and with the sensor both connected and disconnected . I also checked it connected with the engine running and there was no voltage . I did this with a DC volt meter . I was considering getting an AC volt meter to check the sender output with but have not done that yet but even if I do, I have no idea how many volts it needs to keep the check engine light off and not retard the ignition timing.

I should have the existing unused bolt hole in the head drilled and tapped in a few hours so I can screw the sender directly into the head to see if it gets more noise/signal from the engine and enough to function properly.

I also read on a Supra forum that the original sender wire sometimes needs to be replaced with shielded wire all the way from the ecu to the sender and this is what I probably can't do . I also am just getting off crutches and still can't do much work at all so even if I could normally replace that wire, I probably can't maneuver well enough yet to do it at the moment.

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[barnett468]

drilled and tapped an exhaust hole in the head and tried both sensors in it and the light still quickly came on.

put one sensor in the head and connected the other sensor also and laid in on the intake so i had 2 sensors hoping to increase signal and the light still quickly came on.

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[HanginInUtah]

Seems like a lot of effort to bypass a sensor. Why do you want to bypass it? What are you going to gain?

I've had two 4runners, and on both of them I've replaced the pigtail between the sensor and the harness. No problems with the actual sensor, and no codes. I realize it's a pain to get to without removing the intake, but all the extra work you've invested seems about equal to a couple hours of wrenching.

Don't get me wrong... I'm not trying to come across critical, just curious why.