LBJ replacement interval?

I just picked up an 02 with 147k miles. The LBJ were replaced by Toyota about 90k miles ago under recall, in 2005. The truck is impeccably maintained.

Should I just do them again or give them a bit of time?

How well do you sleep at night? I’d just do it now and sleep easy for the next 10 years. Why put off the inevitable ?

As for the testing, I’m betting that 99% of us could not spot a bad ball joint using the fsm Method. It’s only once they are off the truck that it becomes obvious unless they are truly grossly worn out.

Just do it. Don’t become one of those photos.
 
Why put off the inevitable ?
As for the testing, I’m betting that 99% of us could not spot a bad ball joint using the fsm Method....

That a good thing if you can't spot it, means your in spec, lol.
Spec is .5mm (0.020") max, Magnetic base flex post dial indicator needed.
Your absolutely right @90k mi replacement good for 100k mi no worries.
 
How well do you sleep at night? I’d just do it now and sleep easy for the next 10 years. Why put off the inevitable ?

As for the testing, I’m betting that 99% of us could not spot a bad ball joint using the fsm Method. It’s only once they are off the truck that it becomes obvious unless they are truly grossly worn out.

Just do it. Don’t become one of those photos.

The ball joint on the right is an AC Delco 555 branded ball joint. Note the differences in the bolt mating surfaces. This ball joint had 40k miles and the only off-road action it saw was about 100 miles of beach driving and NEVER in the water. This ball joint was LOOOSEY GOOSEY. I could move it around with light pressure from my pinky.....

The ball joint on the left is a Toyota Genuine Balljoint. Stark differences. I was too stupid to know better when I first got this rig.
 

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I'm just a newbie, but isn't it ironic that we replace OEM/factory installed LBJs with OEM ones because they fail. But also the aftermarket ones fail?
 
I'm just a newbie, but isn't it ironic that we replace OEM/factory installed LBJs with OEM ones because they fail. But also the aftermarket ones fail?
They're a wear item that has the potential to cause catastrophic damage when they fail. So far no one has found a lower ball joint that bolts in that lasts longer than OEM.
 
I'm just a newbie, but isn't it ironic that we replace OEM/factory installed LBJs with OEM ones because they fail. But also the aftermarket ones fail?


My lower balljoints are greaseable. I grease them every oil change.


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I've always questioned the move away from greasable BJ's, time has proven not a bad thing I guess.
Not gona gripe about 100k service life, price tag, lil dirt from job.
 
I've always questioned the move away from greasable BJ's, time has proven not a bad thing I guess.
Not gona gripe about 100k service life, price tag, lil dirt from job.


I always look for greaseable ball joints and swaybar links.

To me the lower ball joint failure is from rust seizing the ball and it breaking the stem from the ball.


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I always look for greaseable ball joints and swaybar links.

To me the lower ball joint failure is from rust seizing the ball and it breaking the stem from the ball...

I've changed my philosophy on greasing BJ's, 100k+ service life it ain't broke know what I mean, I don't trust A/M. All for Links.

Rust being issue could see that, thread's on the subject show stud broke, ball base separation, my area ball n base all the time most before Ah Shiite. Lol.
 
To me the lower ball joint failure is from rust seizing the ball and it breaking the stem from the ball.

There is a TON of very detailed information on this very forum about WHY they are a failure item in this particular application. It has to do with design of the system. But failures come from the bolts as often as not (though, this seems to be mostly attributed to reusing them).

I replaced mine at 190k (when I bought the 4r form the original owner, non-lifted, most off-road was a gravel driveway), "felt" fine with the FSM test... boots looked fine when installed.... both were torn and holding water once removed with a lot of rust and movement evident. 200k miles is the outside limit for a Street-only, non-lifted truck (or rather, 200k miles/20 years... if you do 200k miles in 10 years, you might be fine).

At this point, any original-installed ball joints should be replaced simply due to AGE. Past that, it's a study in use-case. I'll probably stick to 15 years/150k miles myself for a 99% street/non-lifted use (and since I've only put ~5k miles on it in the past year, that'll be a time-related replacement).
 

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