LCA Adjustment Cam Question

[Unner]

Hey all,

I'm planning to replace my lower control arm bushings since mine are cracking and I'm pretty sure they are what is causing my clunk over speed bumps and washboard roads as well as a clunk when turning left.

I know it isn't my sway bar because I pulled both end links and it still did it. Pretty much everything else up front is new as well. LBJ, ITRE, OTRE, Coilovers, brakes, end links, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, everything but the LCA and UCA has been done suspension wise.

My plan is to just buy the entire arm from Toyota for the extra cash and then just be able to swap the arms out for an easier job. I don't think that my adjustment cams will be frozen since my truck is rust free, but I would like to get the parts just in-case so I'm not left stranded. I know they all turn because I am able to get alignments with no problem and have been able to do so since I've had the truck.

My question is what actually freezes in there? Is it the sleeve that goes through the bushing?

I plan to order whatever parts it could be and then if they aren't needed I'll just sell them on the forum for a little less than I paid.

I'm hoping to order parts tonight or tomorrow morning this way I can do it next weekend maybe.

Thanks in advance!

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

The metal tube in the middle of the bush rusts onto the metal cam adjustment tube that stops adjustment.. The bolts themselves usually come out ok.

if you just try and "beast it" it usually finishes off the bush totally and you end up with the bush inner just rotating with the outer.

I had this happen to me and it was a royal pain!

I've been running superflex poly bushes for a few years, but am going to go back to Toyota OEM on a new LCA.

When I got my alignment done the shop didn't retorque the adjustment bolts correctly, (It's high, can't remember what off the top of my head) and that combined with Poly bushes being firmer knocked it out of alignment pretty quickly.

I actually struggle with getting them to the correct torque due to access.. you need a decent "crows foot" adaptor, I can't seem to find any long enough, so it anyone can recommend one, please let us know!

 

[fourfive]

My question is what actually freezes in there? Is it the sleeve that goes through the bushing?

It seems to be the metal sleeves that can be difficult to remove. I didnt have any rust on mine when i replaced my lca bushings but i used an electrical impact that pulled everything apart in seconds. Highly recommend investing one if you do your own work.

I actually struggle with getting them to the correct torque due to access.. you need a decent "crows foot" adaptor, I can't seem to find any long enough, so it anyone can recommend one, please let us know!

I took my skid plates off and was able to access the cam bolts with my torque wrench and crows foot without a problem. I believe the torque specs were 96ft/lbs.

 

[MStudt]

I Was able to remove 2 or the 4 on mine a few weeks ago. The other 2 I had to use a grinder, and a saw to cut through them. Anti-seize should be your best friend when putting in new ones.

 

[JayRolla]

SPC makes a cam bolt kit with plastic sleeves so they will never seize. Very good investment. Also makes removal easier because you can cut the bolt for removal instead of loosening the steering rack.

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

It seems to be the metal sleeves that can be difficult to remove. I didnt have any rust on mine when i replaced my lca bushings but i used an electrical impact that pulled everything apart in seconds. Highly recommend investing one if you do your own work.



I took my skid plates off and was able to access the cam bolts with my torque wrench and crows foot without a problem. I believe the torque specs were 96ft/lbs.

The front ones were easy.. the rears I struggled with.. mainly because the steering rack is in the way... (I won't have thought my being RHD would make much difference)
I couldn't find a crows foot "deep" enough if that makes sense. What Brand do you use?


It's also worth adding that Toyota put parts stickers on replacement ones, on the outside of the tube... as these are paper based they'll hold moisture and not help with the rusting/seizing issue. I made sure to remove mine and all traces, and used anti seize compound as mentioned above.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Hey all,

I'm planning to replace my lower control arm bushings since mine are cracking and I'm pretty sure they are what is causing my clunk over speed bumps and washboard roads as well as a clunk when turning left.

I know it isn't my sway bar because I pulled both end links and it still did it. Pretty much everything else up front is new as well. LBJ, ITRE, OTRE, Coilovers, brakes, end links, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, everything but the LCA and UCA has been done suspension wise.

My plan is to just buy the entire arm from Toyota for the extra cash and then just be able to swap the arms out for an easier job. I don't think that my adjustment cams will be frozen since my truck is rust free, but I would like to get the parts just in-case so I'm not left stranded. I know they all turn because I am able to get alignments with no problem and have been able to do so since I've had the truck.

My question is what actually freezes in there? Is it the sleeve that goes through the bushing?

I plan to order whatever parts it could be and then if they aren't needed I'll just sell them on the forum for a little less than I paid.

I'm hoping to order parts tonight or tomorrow morning this way I can do it next weekend maybe.

Thanks in advance!

I'm glad you brought this up as you know I'll be crossing that bridge pretty soon myself. I ordered the adjusters from Camelback. Here's the part number - Cam Adjuster

I'm just wondering if I should have went with SPC's. [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] you went with the SPC's correct? What do you think over OEM? I'll probably never touch the LCA's again once installed. BTW did you manage to get both done this past weekend?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I've done all the repairs mentioned in this thread.

2 cams frozen. I had to cut the bolt with a SawZall between the suspension mount and the outer part of the bushing because my bolts were seized in the sleeve too. Replaced with OEM when I did the LCA bushings, which I also used OEM. Used anti-seize and SuperLube (love that stuff) slurry so the anti-seize wouldn't wash away too easily, not that I think it will but, but I know the SuperLube wont. Those cams bolts have to be TIGHT. When I first put my LCAs back on, I could hear a small knock noise whenever I turned. I used the torque spec. I had to tighten them more (about a half a turn at least) before the noise went away.

You have to loosen and move the rack back a bit to get the rear cam bolts out. I didn't need any special tools for that.

If your cams are turning, why replace them? Are they rusty at all? You'll know if they're seized because when you turn the adjuster part of the cam (after the bolt is loosened. I've had to tell 3 alignment techs to do this) it "bounces" back to its original position. Just clean the up, lube them up, and you should be fine.

I installed the SPC UCAs and I really like them. Got back all my lost caster and I can run 17"s with no rubbing. Pretty easy to install too once you get the old UBJ out of the spindle. That is somewhat of a pain.

The hardest part of this job is finding a competent alignment tech. Few and far between.

 

[Rock_Rat]

I've done all the repairs mentioned in this thread.

2 cams frozen. I had to cut the bolt with a SawZall between the suspension mount and the outer part of the bushing because my bolts were seized in the sleeve too. Replaced with OEM when I did the LCA bushings, which I also used OEM. Used anti-seize and SuperLube (love that stuff) slurry so the anti-seize wouldn't wash away too easily, not that I think it will but, but I know the SuperLube wont. Those cams bolts have to be TIGHT. When I first put my LCAs back on, I could hear a small knock noise whenever I turned. I used the torque spec. I had to tighten them more (about a half a turn at least) before the noise went away.

You have to loosen and move the rack back a bit to get the rear cam bolts out. I didn't need any special tools for that.

If your cams are turning, why replace them? Are they rusty at all? You'll know if they're seized because when you turn the adjuster part of the cam (after the bolt is loosened. I've had to tell 3 alignment techs to do this) it "bounces" back to its original position. Just clean the up, lube them up, and you should be fine.

I installed the SPC UCAs and I really like them. Got back all my lost caster and I can run 17"s with no rubbing. Pretty easy to install too once you get the old UBJ out of the spindle. That is somewhat of a pain.

The hardest part of this job is finding a competent alignment tech. Few and far between.

This is good info. I have a spare set of LCA's I'm using to remove and replace my existing ones. I'll do a complete bench build-up. I have the SPC uppers. The SPC cam adjusters for the LCA's are here. Lower Control Arm SPC Adjusters.

Here's a link to what they look like on [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] LCA's from the weekend.

I'm just wondering if I should I go with these instead of OEM.

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

the hardest part of this job is finding a competent alignment tech. Few and far between.

This!!!! :tape2:

 

[JayRolla]

I'm glad you brought this up as you know I'll be crossing that bridge pretty soon myself. I ordered the adjusters from Camelback. Here's the part number - Cam Adjuster

I'm just wondering if I should have went with SPC's. [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] you went with the SPC's correct? What do you think over OEM? I'll probably never touch the LCA's again once installed. BTW did you manage to get both done this past weekend?

Even if you dont plan on touching the LCA's again the OEM sleeves can rust again and you wont beable to get a good alignment. But again if you grease the hell out of those OEM sleeves and clean all the rust off you might be good.

I ended up completing one side in two days mainly because I was fighting the cam sleeve in the OEM bushing sleeve that is needed for the new Energy Bushings. If you get whitelines they come with the metal sleeves and a little more press work. With the ES you reused all the OEM metal parts so you just have to remove the rubber from them.

Last night I was able to pretty much complete the other side in about 3 hours since I knew what I was doing. Cutting out the bolts is easier than removing the steering rack also.

 

[Unner]

Thanks for the responses everyone. Last night I ordered new control arms and cam adjusters from Toyota just incase mine are frozen as I need the truck to be up and running the next day after I do this to drive me back home.

It sounds like the consensus is that I won't need new bolts right? Or should I go ahead and order bolts and the nut adjuster part on the back too just incase?

All of mine turned I'm fairly certain of because I was able to get a great alignment after I lifted my truck. Had the camber and toe dead on in factory specs and was even able to get the caster within .1 degrees of factory specs.

 

[JayRolla]

Thanks for the responses everyone. Last night I ordered new control arms and cam adjusters from Toyota just incase mine are frozen as I need the truck to be up and running the next day after I do this to drive me back home.

It sounds like the consensus is that I won't need new bolts right? Or should I go ahead and order bolts and the nut adjuster part on the back too just incase?

All of mine turned I'm fairly certain of because I was able to get a great alignment after I lifted my truck. Had the camber and toe dead on in factory specs and was even able to get the caster within .1 degrees of factory specs.

To remove the rear bolt you must disconnect the steering rack to get enough play. I had new ones so just cut it out per SPC instructions.

My camber bolts all adjusted also. They can move but still be seized. This happens when the bushing is bad and torn. The cam sleeve is seized to the bushing sleeve so when you move the bolt head it just turns the rubber inside allowing alignment but still seized. That might not make sense but in my head it does. LOL

3 alignment shops said I was in spec and my lower control arm bushings where fine. I have found that they where all wrong and its been causing tire wear and major pulling when breaking.

 

[Unner]

To remove the rear bolt you must disconnect the steering rack to get enough play. I had new ones so just cut it out per SPC instructions.

My camber bolts all adjusted also. They can move but still be seized. This happens when the bushing is bad and torn. The cam sleeve is seized to the bushing sleeve so when you move the bolt head it just turns the rubber inside allowing alignment but still seized. That might not make sense but in my head it does. LOL

3 alignment shops said I was in spec and my lower control arm bushings where fine. I have found that they where all wrong and its been causing tire wear and major pulling when breaking.

This makes sense to me. My parts are supposed to ship Tuesday so as long as they are here by Friday I'll do this this weekend. Hopefully this'll make my front end a little tighter and then really the only play I'll have is in the steering coupler joint thing.

I'll start spraying that area with PB blaster this week and schedule an alignment for Saturday evening.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

This makes sense to me. My parts are supposed to ship Tuesday so as long as they are here by Friday I'll do this this weekend. Hopefully this'll make my front end a little tighter and then really the only play I'll have is in the steering coupler joint thing.

I'll start spraying that area with PB blaster this week and schedule an alignment for Saturday evening.

I just did mine with ES bushings. I ordered the cam adjusters and bolts, but ended up not needing them. Dealer told me that unless you live in the salt belt, you most likely won't need them. These parts are a PITA to replace, I wish I would have known about the SPC parts, probably would have put those in. I used Honda High Temp Urea Grease on my adjusters and bolts, which NASA developed for rockets. Mine will never seize now. I use this grease for brake jobs for the sliding pins, and it is still there the next time I replace the pads and rotors.

It's also not hard to undo the steering rack, as I would also replace the rack bushings if you haven't already. The hardest bolt is the center one below the bell housing.

Plan on towing your vehicle on a flatbed trailer because it will be pretty much undriveable after replacing the LCA bushings.

 

[Unner]

I just did mine with ES bushings. I ordered the cam adjusters and bolts, but ended up not needing them. Dealer told me that unless you live in the salt belt, you most likely won't need them. These parts are a PITA to replace, I wish I would have known about the SPC parts, probably would have put those in. I used Honda High Temp Urea Grease on my adjusters and bolts, which NASA developed for rockets. Mine will never seize now. I use this grease for brake jobs for the sliding pins, and it is still there the next time I replace the pads and rotors.

It's also not hard to undo the steering rack, as I would also replace the rack bushings if you haven't already. The hardest bolt is the center one below the bell housing.

Plan on towing your vehicle on a flatbed trailer because it will be pretty much undriveable after replacing the LCA bushings.

That's why I went with all new arms with bushings in them instead of messing with replacing the bushings themselves and having to deal with that extra step.

I've done the steering rack bushings already so no need to do them again.

My plan is to mark the cam plates on the frame so I can get the alignment fairly close and then go straight to Firestone which is like 2 miles away so it shouldn't be too bad.

 

[Scramble]

Hey all,

I'm planning to replace my lower control arm bushings since mine are cracking and I'm pretty sure they are what is causing my clunk over speed bumps and washboard roads as well as a clunk when turning left.

I know it isn't my sway bar because I pulled both end links and it still did it. Pretty much everything else up front is new as well. LBJ, ITRE, OTRE, Coilovers, brakes, end links, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, everything but the LCA and UCA has been done suspension wise.

My plan is to just buy the entire arm from Toyota for the extra cash and then just be able to swap the arms out for an easier job. I don't think that my adjustment cams will be frozen since my truck is rust free, but I would like to get the parts just in-case so I'm not left stranded. I know they all turn because I am able to get alignments with no problem and have been able to do so since I've had the truck.

My question is what actually freezes in there? Is it the sleeve that goes through the bushing?

I plan to order whatever parts it could be and then if they aren't needed I'll just sell them on the forum for a little less than I paid.

I'm hoping to order parts tonight or tomorrow morning this way I can do it next weekend maybe.

Thanks in advance!

That's really interesting. I have a clunk, it's really more of a quick bang. Sounds like metal on metal only for a second when I'm turning right & going up hill. I cant figure what out what it is, I'll have to look at my LCA bushings.
Thanks

 

[JayRolla]

That's really interesting. I have a clunk, it's really more of a quick bang. Sounds like metal on metal only for a second when I'm turning right & going up hill. I cant figure what out what it is, I'll have to look at my LCA bushings.
Thanks

I was getting this metal contact sound also. After my new bushing front is solid now. No sounds and brakes straight. Now I'm fighting alignment shops.

 

[Unner]

Got my new arms in no problems. Cams weren't seized, but I replaced them anyway. I'll probably clean up the old ones and throw them up cheap in the classifieds.


Unfortunately they didn't solve my problem so I still have the problem, but also new control arms!

Now I'm looking at adjusting the steering rack guide again, or possibly a driveshaft binding. Only thing that hasn't been replaced on the front suspension is the UCA and I doubt it is causing this problem.

 

[fast325it]

Cam bolts

How many cam bolts are there for each lower control arm, 2?