Part 1
Disclaimer: These are not official instructions, rather just how I went about completing the job. I reference and used some pictures from BigFishAllDay's write-up mentioned above. (
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-case-output-shaft-oil-seals-how-diyers.html)
1. Apply PB blaster to the driveshaft nuts, driveshaft grease zerk, and the transfer case skid plate bolts the day before. Also, sometime before you disconnect the driveshaft, you should noticeably paint the connection between the driveshaft and companion flange so you can align it the way it was (for balancing purposes). You will need new gear oil because you should drain your fluid before you take the flange off, unless you like oily surprises (both 24mm, always undo the fill before the drain plug. Torque them to 27 ft lbs).
2. Take off the four skid plate bolts (12 mm).
/*I do not have a transmission skid plate, so I don’t know if that will be in the way or not.*/
3. Next are the drive shaft nuts. They are on tight and there is no room for an impact. If all four tires are off the ground the driveshaft will spin (V8. That will only happen when the front wheels are up for the V6). Therefore you must have a way of stopping the rotation. If your car is on the ground, that will work, however I prefer the driveshaft to be able to spin so I could easily access each nut. BigFish shoved an extension through the u-joint. I used a wrench on the hex head of the bolt (17 mm) and another on the nut (14 mm). There is one washer with each nut. If the nut is really stuck on, don’t be afraid to apply some heat.
4. If you maintain your vehicle well, the slip yoke should be filled with grease and will be hard to compress in order to separate the flange from the driveshaft. Therefore, you must remove the zerk fitting. (Not the one in the u-joint!) It is 7mm and should be super easy.
Photo Courtesy of BigFishAllDay
5. Collapse the driveshaft any way you like. I pried in-between the shaft and companion flange and forced it in. Just remember that all of the grease will ooze out. You may set the driveshaft aside on the crossmember.
Photo Courtesy of BigFishAllDay
6. Next you have to unstake the nut. The output shaft has a notch cut into the threads and part of the nut is pushed into the notch. The purpose of this is to keep the nut from spinning, and Toyota did a very good job at it. What you must do is un-dent the nut from the shaft.
This is the hardest part, but it is not impossible. First you will need something flat and pointy, like a screwdriver. How you want to do it is up to you. I recommend turning the flange so that the staked part is facing up toward the cabin floor. Then take a hammer and your chosen pointy tool and chisel it away. That's what worked for me.
/*One thing to take note of is the transmission crossmember is in different places for the V8 and V6. It was really in the way of my hammer swinging, so how long your pointy tool is will also be a factor.*/
Photo Courtesy of BigFishAllDay
Here is the tool that worked best for me.
I am sure some will greatly appreciate it. Me too, but i don't need to do it.
