Drivetrain clunk saga: Grease, new shaft, empty transfer case. Still there...

I have a question related to the TC. Since it works in 2H there must be a pass thru shaft design inside that does not use the gears /chain to change output ratio. As long as this shaft has lube at its bearings the drive train will function in direct pass thru.
Anybody have hands on with a TC and can verify how power goes thru the TC from input to output.
Not sure I am very clear with above. But maybe you get the thought?
Thanks
 
I have a question related to the TC. Since it works in 2H there must be a pass thru shaft design inside that does not use the gears /chain to change output ratio. As long as this shaft has lube at its bearings the drive train will function in direct pass thru.
Anybody have hands on with a TC and can verify how power goes thru the TC from input to output.
Not sure I am very clear with above. But maybe you get the thought?
Thanks

Yes, a straight through shaft. I don't have the link anymore, but google 'Weber Automotive" youtube videos and you should be able to find an in depth discussion and visual presentation on the 4Runner transfer case. This fellow is a professor at Weber State University and their automotive technology program, it is excellent.
 
Yes, a straight through shaft. I don't have the link anymore, but google 'Weber Automotive" youtube videos and you should be able to find an in depth discussion and visual presentation on the 4Runner transfer case. This fellow is a professor at Weber State University and their automotive technology program, it is excellent.

I looked up the video: "Center Differential Transfer Cases"
 
Update.. 4Lo working

I'm both lucky and an idiot...read below.

The codes, C1234 (I think) Open Center Diff and the Zero Point caused the motor to shut off after starting.
I needed to get back to just the clunk so-

Attempted to run the Zero Point calibration. Would not stick.
Unplugged the actuator, turned the truck on, then off. (remember I think I caused this odd combination of codes when I unplugged the actuator WHILE the truck was running)
Plugged the actuator back in.
TRuck on, code for Open Center Diff gone. Now only Zero point remained.
Ran the calibration, code gone!

Truck runs and drives, Center Diff engages and disengages properly.

Loosened the bolts holding the actuator to allow for maybe a millimeter of separation from the housing and the TC.
Rattled it a bit by hand.
Started truck, put it in Neutral. Attempted to engage 4Lo. No love.
Decided to check the switch.
Pulled the center dash section off so I can get to the plug.
Jumpered the plug from the back, 4Lo ENGAGED!
Jumpered it back to 4Lo off.

Decided to pull the switch. As I was trying to get it out, realized the plastic knob had a crack in the mated part so it would no properly turn the switch.
That was it.

4Lo works great.

I plan on boroscoping via the fill hole this week.
I'll report back.
Yes, I know I'm going to end up buying a TC but it's good to know the actuator works.
 

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