LED Bulbs, Resistor Fast Blink, Issues ABS Light Lit!

rollingthunder

rollingthunder

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Front turn signal
7440 Super Amber Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Rear turn signal
7440 Super Red Refractor Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Tail light/Stop light
7443 Super Red Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Back up light
7440 Super White Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Front Sidemarker
194 White 6LED (2 Bulbs)

I have them installed they shine great, I have put the LED Resistors(6 Ohm/50 Watt) on each turn signal bulb in but my ABS light stays lit on my dash...this is an ongoing problem and I still have the fast blink, fellas let's come together and help me remedy this, it gets on my nerves, anything I can do?:bash: :confused:
 
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Did you connect the Resistors in Series or Parallel? Some instructions when adding resistors in car LED lightings suggest to be connected in parallel..But eversince I have to connect the resistors in series with a LED allowing just the right current through it.
I think 50 watts is a big value. How about doing trial and error.. I will put back on all the Original Bulbs... Before that, I will measure the resistance of the bulb, and the only resistance from the switching ckt is the resistance of the filament( assumed to be 5-6ohms). Now for the power rating of the resistor, I need the voltage and the current that actually passes through each bulb. So, I will let someone step on the brakes while I will measure the actual current with a multimeter connected in series with the bulb. Having the actual current that passes there and the voltage(given @12V), then I can compute the right wattage of the load resistor. I will do the same in other bulbs.:) :)
Also, those LED assembly uses the same wirewound resistors sold at Radioshack for $2...IMO no need to buy those expensive ones online..:)
 
if they are 12v led's they have their own current limiting resistor inside (otherwise they burn out instantly)

the additional resistor (6 ohm) must be in parallel (across the power wires) with the led. you want to increase power draw to make the rest of the 4runner think you have normal bulbs.

wattage rating - the 6 ohm across 14 volt burns over 30 watts, 50watt rating is a good idea for bulbs on continuously

put them where they won't melt anything
 
Assuming connecting the Resistor in Parallel(following the instructions).
Now there are two resistance in that circuit, one is the resistance of the LED which is near zero(hence the computer and blinker did not detect that a bulb is there) and the other is the suppose to be Load Resistor. For example, if the car computer needs 6 ohms to function properly,and thats why you will add a resistor, all I know is the "Total resistance of a Parallel circuit is SMALLER than any of the individual resistance" and that includes the LED which is way too low. So why would the current pass in a 6ohm resistor??and tell the computer that its 6 ohms there.And If I'm correct, you can't read 6 ohms in that circuit now, you will read a very low value even lower than the resistance of the LED. Its like holding an insulator in the left hand and a conductor in the right hand and plug both in an AC outlet, we still get electrocuted..means, no matter how many ohms is one of the resistor if you connect it in parralel with a zero you will read zero...same original problem.. Why not try series connection...(but I don't guaranty it will work, just a suggestion)..

If you measure the resistance across that resistor paralleled with LED .., then the resistance would be lesser than the resistance of the LED:) Correct me if I'm wrong..
 
led is a diode junction

it has around 1 volt of drop across it when current flows through it (in the forward biased direction - that's the direction of current flow that makes it light up)

reverse the polarity of the led and it will not pass current and will not light up (it looks like a very high resistance)
- take the voltage up high enough and the led will breakdown and burnout

without series resistance, when hooked up to the car battery voltage source, a very high current will flow through the led for about a microsecond and it blows out - all led's for car use have either an internal resistor or require one in series

the led when working properly uses only a watt, maybe three - not enough to make the 4Runner think there is a bulb there. a parallel resistor across the power leads to the led lets you waste enough power to fool the ABS / blinker

as to the original problem, I'm betting the 6 ohm ( in parallel !) resistor is not making good connections with the led supply lines

you do not need the led even hooked up to test the blink rate (with and without the 6 ohm resistor) the led draws too little current to matter at all
 
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I started w/the 10/ohm 10 watt resistors on the bulbs cause at 1st when I put the bulbs in w/out a resistor I would get the blink out alarm buzz on the dash, the bulb would not blink at all, just freeze up so I got the 6ohm/50watt resistors and they are wired in series just like the directions say from + to - and I still get the fast blink and the ABS light and I have trial and errored it by wiring the resistor parallel also:bash:
 
its this simple
1
 
are you saying you have a load resistor on each bulb ? like one for the front and one for the rear on both sides ? i think that might be to much
 
Elton H said:
are you saying you have a load resistor on each bulb ? like one for the front and one for the rear on both sides ? i think that might be to much
Click to expand...

yes I do have a load resistor on each bulb, when I 1st did all the bulbs I put some radio shack 10watt/10 ohm resistors in on the rear bulbs only(this is the only way I could clear the alarm buzz where the blinkers would lock up), then I removed the 10ohm/10 watt and bought the(6 Ohm/50 Watt) , and nothing changed at all, them I bought another set of the (6 Ohm/50 Watt) , now I have 4 of them one on each bulb and still no change at all....
 
You have the resistors wired in parallel to the led's. That is good and correct.

They should heat up some if the connections are good.

Measuring the bulb resistance (cold bulb) is difficult since it goes up a lot and quick once the filament gets hot.
 
rollingthunder said:
yes I do have a load resistor on each bulb, when I 1st did all the bulbs I put some radio shack 10watt/10 ohm resistors in on the rear bulbs only(this is the only way I could clear the alarm buzz where the blinkers would lock up), then I removed the 10ohm/10 watt and bought the(6 Ohm/50 Watt) , and nothing changed at all, them I bought another set of the (6 Ohm/50 Watt) , now I have 4 of them one on each bulb and still no change at all....
Click to expand...
Don't have much knowledge about car electricals, and don't know if the your 4Runner has a mechanical, thermal flasher or an electronic flasher. But, have you think of the TOYOTA ELECTRONIC 4 LED FLASHER BLINKER TURN SIGNAL FIX?. http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4481146/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481 and if that one can be use in the your 4runner?? It says that it can fix LED related turn signal problems.
By going the resistor route, we will need 4 and will cost more than replacing/installing a LED compatible flasher. Also illiminating those messy resistor connections..
Lots of forums dicussing that problem..same resistor thing recommendation..but nobody really confirmed the right connections, and values of that resistor( If a non member is reading this thread pls register and post..LOL!)..
Until I read in one forum suggesting to check the "Blinker Fluid":lmao:
..your truck will really look cool with LEDs..:)
 
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More Specifcs Please!!!

Atlanta_man said:
You have the resistors wired in parallel to the led's. That is good and correct.

They should heat up some if the connections are good.

Measuring the bulb resistance (cold bulb) is difficult since it goes up a lot and quick once the filament gets hot.
Click to expand...

You seem to know what you are talking about (I have no idea). Can you describe where I should be splicing in the resistor to fix the hyperflash? I have a 2004 T4R Sport. Any help would be great!!! Thanks in advance!
Joe
 
6ohm 50watt resistor is most likely way too small. Do the math and you'll see you probably need a 390ohm for just one 2v led.
 
The Abs Light turns on with passenger side Brake light because it has a burnt out bulb warning built into the passenger side of the brake light harness the 6ohm 50w resistors should be installed on the Driver and Passenger side Brake light and running light hot and ground wires in parallel... To fix your hyper flash problem buy the LED Flasher relay From Any autopart store and install it under the dash in the back of the interior fuse pannel were the Flasher relay is and that should fix the hyper flashing for the blinkers hope that helps....


rollingthunder said:
Front turn signal
7440 Super Amber Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Rear turn signal
7440 Super Red Refractor Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Tail light/Stop light
7443 Super Red Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Back up light
7440 Super White Flux 18 LED (2 Bulbs)

Front Sidemarker
194 White 6LED (2 Bulbs)

I have them installed they shine great, I have put the LED Resistors(6 Ohm/50 Watt) on each turn signal bulb in but my ABS light stays lit on my dash...this is an ongoing problem and I still have the fast blink, fellas let's come together and help me remedy this, it gets on my nerves, anything I can do?:bash: :confused:
Click to expand...
 
AntonioCm1983 said:
The Abs Light turns on with passenger side Brake light because it has a burnt out bulb warning built into the passenger side of the brake light harness the 6ohm 50w resistors should be installed on the Driver and Passenger side Brake light and running light hot and ground wires in parallel... To fix your hyper flash problem buy the LED Flasher relay From Any autopart store and install it under the dash in the back of the interior fuse pannel were the Flasher relay is and that should fix the hyper flashing for the blinkers hope that helps....
Click to expand...
2008... The post you are responding to is from 2008... Even if you are responding to the post above yours, then that is from 2015. Not any better really.
 
Hey fellas,

Im new here and I recently installed led taillights to the truck and immediately the ABS light came on. I saw that adding a resistor would solve this issue but not to knowledgeable on this and would like to know what size resistors to install and where. If anyone has a link to where to purchase I would highly appreciate it.
 
crobles91 said:
Hey fellas,

Im new here and I recently installed led taillights to the truck and immediately the ABS light came on. I saw that adding a resistor would solve this issue but not to knowledgeable on this and would like to know what size resistors to install and where. If anyone has a link to where to purchase I would highly appreciate it.
Click to expand...
A "canbus" resistor that you can splice in anywhere should be enough. You could also parallel up a small (194/168) bulb and hide it in the quarter panel. Or change the center bulb back to incandescent. Make sure its on the brake light wire, not parking lights.

-Charlie
 
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