LED light bar switches

[csireeves]

I just purchased a 40" LED light bar from GG Lighting and the Southern Style hybrid front bumper with 25" LED light bar and will be needing some interior switches for these. I'd like to run the 40" and 25" off of the same switch using a relay and, eventually, add some rear lights to run off a different switch. I would also like to find switches that fit in the stock switch location left of the steering wheel (I have 2 unused spots).

What switches/relays is everyone using?

 

[Kslab]

http://www.aironboard.com/online/toyota-replacement.html.

Check out this website. I see a lot of guys using these.

 

[Mistaken]

I used the red button style switches that came with my lights and they fit right on the blank spots. I'm sure Rigid sells them separately.

 

[live_discover]

Aironboard is what i will be using

 

[csireeves]

The Aironboard switches work well even though it seems they are only rated at 3amps?

 

[Miguelon]

Arboreal Systems

 

[bloodninja]

http://www.4x4spod.com

 

[coversion]

The Aironboard switches work well even though it seems they are only rated at 3amps?

If your lights draw more than 3A, you will want a relay that can handle the load of the lights.

 

[rigtec]

I just purchased a 40" LED light bar from GG Lighting and the Southern Style hybrid front bumper with 25" LED light bar and will be needing some interior switches for these...

Hi csireeves,

I've used 'A.O.B.' and the 'slee-off road' in-dash switches which both work equally as well! "Here's a couple of pics of my dash using the aob switches":





You can see by the last photo that I've repositioned the switches a bit in the dash trying to figure out which arrangement looks the best and most 'factory like'! Each photo shows the switch in a different mode. The first is just to show the switch itself. The second one shows the dash with everything OFF! The third shows the switches with only the head/parking lights on, and the switch's 'etched' back-light w/courtesy circuit lighting glowing. And the forth, both leds and headlights are on as noted by the etched back-glow and ON/OFF indicator!

"...I'd like to run the 40" and 25" off of the same switch using a relay..."

Doing this is very easy. It can be done using one relay or two; depending on the size of the load. If the intended load (LED lights) is small, you can just run one relay and feed both LEDs. But if you know that the load of two LEDs will exceed the max capacity of the relay, wiring and fuse, then a second relay and harness is added and wired so that the first relay is 'triggered' by the dash switch, but the second relay is triggered by the load circuit of the first relay.

Please be sure to keep us posted as to how you're making out on this project; there are plenty of others here who would love to see your LED bar in full operation!

BEST!

 

[rigtec]

The Aironboard switches work well even though it seems they are only rated at 3amps?

As [MENTION=85819]coversion[/MENTION] has acknowledged, these dash switches are to be used for 'PILOT DUTY ONLY (i.e. triggering)'; and not for large 'load baring' purposes!

 

[csireeves]

Thanks for the info. I know the 40" light bar draws 20 amps at 12 volts (at least according to the GG Lighting website). I'm not sure how many amps the 25" draws, but no matter how many amps, I will need at least one relay. I figured I would use one AOB switch for the 40" and 25" together since they both are in the front and, eventually, a second switch for any rear floods I add in the future. I appears the GG Lighting light bar comes with the entire wiring harness including relay (although I don't know the amp rating of the relay) and all I would need to do is change out the stock switch for the AOB switch (the stock switch is just a small round rocker switch). I don't know what wiring comes with the 25" light bar just yet (I tried calling Southern Style, but only got voicemail).

I'm sure I will have more questions once all of the parts come in and I am ready for the install. Even though the install is still several weeks away, could someone give me an idea how wiring the two led bars to activate off of one switch would work? Assuming both led bars have complete wiring harnesses, each with a separate relay, one could just connect the switch ends of both harnesses to a single switch and both would.

 

[rigtec]

"I know the 40" light bar draws 20 amps at 12 volts... ...I figured I would use one AOB switch for the 40" and 25" together since they both are in the front..."

Hi csireeves,

Most conventional LED lightbars and foglight kits come with relay/harness assemblies capable of carrying a 30A load. Some R/harnesses will handle 50 amps or more like the ones I use:

To determine what the led bar's R/harness is capable of, see what size inline fuse the kit comes with. If the fuse is rated for 30A you wouldn't want to load it with both leds unless your sure that their 'combined power consumption' does not exceed 27A; leaving a '10% current in-rush (surge) margin' to prevent false 'MUST TRIP' breaker/fuse parameters. If the supplied wiring harness is at least '8ga' then it will safely handle up to 60A for relatively short distances i.e. 15 ft! Then the relay (and fuse) could be substituted with a 50 amp relay like the one pictured above; I paid $12 bucks for a pkg of four with 'socket connector/wiring pigtail' on ebay: 4 Pair 50 Amp 12V Bosch Style Relay Harness SPDT 100 Copper Wires | eBay

could someone give me an idea how wiring the two led bars to activate off of one switch would work?..."

That'll be very easy for you! Just cut the (Round) switches off of the supplied harnesses. Instead of adding a 'STAKE-ON' CRIMP CONNECTOR to just one harness switch lead, join both switch leads together e.g., green with green wire, blue with blue wire...etc and then tie-in your new A.O.B. switch; allowing it to control not one, but 'BOTH' harnesses; "see below":



Double check your new switch wiring color code with the manufacturer's instructions to be sure it matches the one above. Make a copy of this wiring scheme for yourself to glance at while you're waiting for your parts to arrive, it'll help you form a mental picture of how the plot works!

Best to you!

 

[Spenny]

Check out the Switch Pro that GG-Lighting sells too, just got one myself, similar to the SPod too.

 

[jmweilacher]

An sPOD can be ordered with just the pigtail harness and then wired to the AOB switches, pretty easy and gives capacity to add more stuff later

 

[acolle]

<strike>Possibly the Toyota OEM parts...

PT297-35070-AS
AUXILLARY SWITCH FJ

PT297-35070-SH
SWITCH WIRE HARNESS</strike>

Nope. Does not fit. Thank you [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] for calling that out!

<strike></strike>

 

[barryhiram]

Possibly the Toyota OEM parts...

PT297-35070-AS
AUXILLARY SWITCH FJ

PT297-35070-SH
SWITCH WIRE HARNESS

View attachment 192357

That switch is for FJ's, doesn't fit 4Runner knockout without modifying/cutting dash.

Best bet would be AOB or Slee switches as they are a direct fit.

Toyota or FJ switch = face surface size of 1.54" x 0.83" (39 mm x 21 mm)
AOB or Slee switch = face surface size of 1.28" x 0.87" (32.5 mm x 22 mm)

 

[newb1e]

That switch is for FJ's, doesn't fit 4Runner knockout without modifying/cutting dash.

Best bet would be AOB or Slee switches as they are a direct fit.

Toyota or FJ switch = face surface size of 1.54" x 0.83" (39 mm x 21 mm)
AOB or Slee switch = face surface size of 1.28" x 0.87" (32.5 mm x 22 mm)

what does your 4R look with the bars?

 

[barryhiram]

what does your 4R look with the bars?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...bar-upper-grille-%9212-sr5-%96-installed.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out-5.html

 

[csireeves]

Hi csireeves,

Most conventional LED lightbars and foglight kits come with relay/harness assemblies capable of carrying a 30A load. Some R/harnesses will handle 50 amps or more like the ones I use:

To determine what the led bar's R/harness is capable of, see what size inline fuse the kit comes with. If the fuse is rated for 30A you wouldn't want to load it with both leds unless your sure that their 'combined power consumption' does not exceed 27A; leaving a '10% current in-rush (surge) margin' to prevent false 'MUST TRIP' breaker/fuse parameters. If the supplied wiring harness is at least '8ga' then it will safely handle up to 60A for relatively short distances i.e. 15 ft! Then the relay (and fuse) could be substituted with a 50 amp relay like the one pictured above; I paid $12 bucks for a pkg of four with 'socket connector/wiring pigtail' on ebay: 4 Pair 50 Amp 12V Bosch Style Relay Harness SPDT 100 Copper Wires | eBay



That'll be very easy for you! Just cut the (Round) switches off of the supplied harnesses. Instead of adding a 'STAKE-ON' CRIMP CONNECTOR to just one harness switch lead, join both switch leads together e.g., green with green wire, blue with blue wire...etc and then tie-in your new A.O.B. switch; allowing it to control not one, but 'BOTH' harnesses; "see below":



Double check your new switch wiring color code with the manufacturer's instructions to be sure it matches the one above. Make a copy of this wiring scheme for yourself to glance at while you're waiting for your parts to arrive, it'll help you form a mental picture of how the plot works!

Best to you!

Thanks for the info and the diagram. It will be very helpful when it comes time for the install.

 

[rigtec]

Thanks for the info and the diagram. It will be very helpful when it comes time for the install.

I've got a good feeling about you 'rolling your sleeves up' and diving into this project! ...and if by chance you run into troubled waters there will be plenty of guys & gals here who are 'more than capable' of guiding you safely back to shore! :surfer:

lol 'Best to you'!