Let's weigh the driveshaft u-joint options

[G_Raw]

Short story: My front u-joint gave out on me...and now im weighing out my options.


Long story: started getting a slight driveline vibration when releasing gas pedal at 60+ mph. This was months ago. This past month a rehearsed to 4.88. Shortly after the slight vibration turned to heavy vibration when driving at 70+. My thoughts were lift changed the angles and what not that the u joints had been sitting for decades. New gears added more stress to joints with the ability to turn wheels with more power. Sure carrier bearings improperly installed crossed my mind but and I was hopefully that the u joints might just need a regressing to relubricate but then I got under the truck and found this...

That's right front u joint seals are toast. I did pack with new grease knowing it would spray more but hopefully slow the progression until you folks chime in on my options as I see them.

Options:

1: replace front u joint only . OEM part cost $100

2: replace front and rear u joints...back one is likely to go out shortly although no play is noted. OEM part x2 cost $200

3: after market driveshaft replacement. Has both front and rear u joints replaced, also takes care of potential 2 piece coupler rubber seal that is also 20+ years old on current shaft. Labor to swap is easier, quality of parts may be unquestionable. Cost $330 - $400.

4: OEM drive shaft replacement. Same reasons as option 3 but takes away questionable parts. Cost $500. ( I know! Knot as pricey as you thought right!? Considering u joints from dealer are $100 each).

Now before you folks tell me $300 on Tom Woods and I'm good to go. His site specifically states he doesn't do 2wd drive shafts, which is what I need. And like an ass hole I still emailed to verify that he won't make it.

4wd conversion is in the works so the driveshaft will be obsolete at some point ( [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] situation haha, he knows what I'm talking about). I just don't have a timeline on when the conversion and part collecting will be complete.


So with that said. If you were in my boat, how would you proceed? No right or wrong answers just want to hear from the community to help weigh the options.

 

[mtbtim]

Are you sure the u-joint grease seals are toast? The splay of grease under the rig is normal to see from greasing the u-joints. The extra grease that squeezes out of the bearing cups gets flung out do to centrifugal force. Does the joint have detectable play?

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I had my local driveline shop replace my front u joint and rebalance for under $180 OTD on my 1996 2WD back in like 2013. I believe he used Spicer. I drove that truck until 2015 when I bought my current 2000 4wd T4R so it lasted me a couple years and was doing great when I sold the vehicle. Not the worst option if you don‘t want to do the work or swap with another used driveshaft that would last an unknown amount of time due to mileage. Lifted angles are not kind to the u joints.

Recently my double cardan on my 2000 4wd was making a ton of noise and vibes and since they’re not rebuildable, I replaced it with a Tom Woods for $500 OTD. If you’re doing a 4wd swap, it’s not the worst option since anything you get used is likely on borrowed time, again, due to the front u joint angle on a lifted rig.

 

[phattyduck]

Tim, OEM 2WD u-joints are sealed and 'maintenance free' - no grease zerks to be found. The shaft is a very different design than the 4WD one (no double cardan, slip yoke into trans, etc.).

If you do know that you are going 4WD in the near future, just get the u-joint replaced. It is maybe 50/50 that this will be good enough for a few years. The vibration you have gotten already may have worn out the rubber...

I ended up getting a whole new shaft (before the 4WD swap was planned) for ~$400 from a local shop (all new), then sold it used maybe 10k miles later for something like $200.

-Charlie

PS. The rear upper arms are different 4WD vs 2WD - if/when you do the swap, swap those arms too.

 

[G_Raw]

Tim, OEM 2WD u-joints are sealed and 'maintenance free' - no grease zerks to be found. The shaft is a very different design than the 4WD one (no double cardan, slip yoke into trans, etc.).

If you do know that you are going 4WD in the near future, just get the u-joint replaced. It is maybe 50/50 that this will be good enough for a few years. The vibration you have gotten already may have worn out the rubber...

I ended up getting a whole new shaft (before the 4WD swap was planned) for ~$400 from a local shop (all new), then sold it used maybe 10k miles later for something like $200.

-Charlie

PS. The rear upper arms are different 4WD vs 2WD - if/when you do the swap, swap those arms too.

False. Both my front and rear have zeros. Which means they've been replaced by previous owner ( my in laws) with after market or OEM do have zerks... either way [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] i do have play from the front but not rear.

 

[phattyduck]

False. Both my front and rear have zeros. Which means they've been replaced by previous owner ( my in laws) with after market or OEM do have zerks... either way [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] i do have play from the front but not rear.

They were replaced then. Much more likely your driveshaft is toast then...

My original shaft had the u-joints replaced twice (when my dad still owned it), then was just relegated to around-town (under 50mph) use until I took ownership because of the vibrations.

-Charlie

 

[G_Raw]

They were replaced then. Much more likely your driveshaft is toast then...

My original shaft had the u-joints replaced twice (when my dad still owned it), then was just relegated to around-town (under 50mph) use until I took ownership because of the vibrations.

-Charlie

I guess now the question is. Since you've gone through this...OEM shaft? Or aftermarket? If so chime in on reputable after market ones to go with.

For those who come across this in the future with regard to Tom Woods drive shafts the deal breaker is if your vehicle uses a slip yoke. They need both sides to use a flange connection ( like 4wd) which is why they generally state they don't make 2wd ones. 2wd commonly use slip yikes at the front end.

 

[Kanoe]

Why not buy a Napa U-Joint and put it in yourself? It's a gamble but not much cash involved. And it is already F-ed. As you say, it is temporary.

 

[mtbtim]

Tim, OEM 2WD u-joints are sealed and 'maintenance free' - no grease zerks to be found. The shaft is a very different design than the 4WD one (no double cardan, slip yoke into trans, etc.).
-Charlie

I did not know this. Interesting choice from Toyota.

OP, if the front u-joint has play, replace the u-joint and carry on. I personally like to go with Toyota OEM u-joints but there are good aftermarket options out there.

This video was done on the rear u-joint for a 4wd model but it will give you an idea of how to replace it yourself if you have the desire, space and tools to do it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6arj3PpT1p4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[HiLife]

Hey G_Raw, that nice Sacramento Toyota yard is a short drive from where you are in Oakland. If can, you should just replace the 2wd shaft with a used unit from there. No must, no fust in R&R'ing a 2wd driveshaft. Go to go for a couple of years.
Or the cheapest option is to r&r the u-joint yourself. Not that bad of a job but, not as easy as just swapping out the shaft.
The best is to go with a rebuilt unit. But is some situations it's cost prohibitive.

 

[phattyduck]

I guess now the question is. Since you've gone through this...OEM shaft? Or aftermarket? If so chime in on reputable after market ones to go with.

That's highly personal, and really depends on how long you are going to be using the shaft.

If you are gambling man, get some NAPA u-joints and put 'em in there. And keep them greased from now on. If you still have vibes, you need a whole new shaft.

I just checked RockAuto - they have complete 2WD shafts available for around $350 shipped, so if you can't find a local shop to do it, they are still easily available.

I don't see a reason to go with an OEM shaft unless you are going to put another 200k miles on it. An aftermarket shaft will be solid and rebuildable.

-Charlie

 

[G_Raw]

That's highly personal, and really depends on how long you are going to be using the shaft.

If you are gambling man, get some NAPA u-joints and put 'em in there. And keep them greased from now on. If you still have vibes, you need a whole new shaft.

I just checked RockAuto - they have complete 2WD shafts available for around $350 shipped, so if you can't find a local shop to do it, they are still easily available.

I don't see a reason to go with an OEM shaft unless you are going to put another 200k miles on it. An aftermarket shaft will be solid and rebuildable.

-Charlie

Locally shops are selling at $430. Honestly anoth $70 won't brake the bank to go OEM. Same for rock auto 350 plus shipping totals $430ish. Same scenario. Thinking I'm going to go Napa feasible for $50ish for both joints. Hope they last till the conversion, if not next decision will depend on how much I have stock piled for the conversion.

 

[4Reak Show]

Locally shops are selling at $430. Honestly anoth $70 won't brake the bank to go OEM. Same for rock auto 350 plus shipping totals $430ish. Same scenario. Thinking I'm going to go Napa feasible for $50ish for both joints. Hope they last till the conversion, if not next decision will depend on how much I have stock piled for the conversion.

I'm pretty sure there's a "heavy duty" napa version. They should be greasable as well which should aide in longevity. I would go that route. Even if it was $100 for the pair you could do the job 5 times before equaling an OEM driveshaft. And if they only last a year per set (which is terrible and unlikely, and they will likely last longer if installed correctly) that buys you at least 5 years before equaling an OEM driveshaft. Is the 4wd swap 5 years away? If so, then any route you take is monetarily similar long term.

 

[alumarine]

I don't know if the part numbers are the same but for my
2000 4WD I used Napa UJ285 ujoints that are made by SKF.
SKF makes a good product and they are $32 ea.
I expect I will never have to replace them.

 

[phattyduck]

And if they only last a year per set (which is terrible and unlikely, and they will likely last longer if installed correctly) that buys you at least 5 years before equaling an OEM driveshaft. Is the 4wd swap 5 years away? If so, then any route you take is monetarily similar long term.

All the 4WD keep forgetting (or never knew) that the SHAFT ITSELF, not just the u-joints on the 2WD can wear out. The center section of the shaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. The rubber wears out at some point and the shaft can no longer be balanced or used. No amount of u-joints can fix it once the rubber wears out.

Aftermarket replacement shafts are solid (no rubber to wear out). OEM would give the best NVH and performance long term. But they are more expensive... so that's a choice you have to make.

-Charlie

 

[nissanh]

The aftermarket U-joints are mostly GMB and.... Just drive your OEM's as those are far superior even worn than a new GMB.

Phattyduck was right about the 2WD drive shafts. Those came without greasable joints and slides into the transmission as most 2WD rear wheel drive vehicles do.

Story about GMB:
I installed a GMB into the pinon end on front drive shaft on a solid axle 1990 hilux LN 106 (part time 4wd). It has may be tops 20 miles of 4WD. After a year that U-joint was almost about to disintegrate.

 

[4Reak Show]

All the 4WD keep forgetting (or never knew) that the SHAFT ITSELF, not just the u-joints on the 2WD can wear out. The center section of the shaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. The rubber wears out at some point and the shaft can no longer be balanced or used. No amount of u-joints can fix it once the rubber wears out.



Aftermarket replacement shafts are solid (no rubber to wear out). OEM would give the best NVH and performance long term. But they are more expensive... so that's a choice you have to make.



-Charlie

This is true. However, he was very clear on the 2wd being temporary. Seems foolish to me to invest in a temporary driveshaft for long term performance. But everyone is different.

The aftermarket U-joints are mostly GMB and.... Just drive your OEM's as those are far superior even worn than a new GMB.

Phattyduck was right about the 2WD drive shafts. Those came without greasable joints and slides into the transmission as most 2WD rear wheel drive vehicles do.

Story about GMB:
I installed a GMB into the pinon end on front drive shaft on a solid axle 1990 hilux LN 106 (part time 4wd). It has may be tops 20 miles of 4WD. After a year that U-joint was almost about to disintegrate.

Napa's website claims GMB is an OEM supplier. No idea if that's true, it's just what they claim. That being said, I've used the "brute force" u joints (napa heavy duty) many many times with great results. I think they are made by spicer which is a very old company that has been reputable for decades.

Again, all this repair is temporary as his 2wd is not long for this world. So again, why invest anything other than day-to-day unless the time frame for its lifespan is significant? I would replace the u joint with decently priced ones, and roll with it. Save the $400 for other 4wd conversion parts.

Edit: looks like "brute force" is a line from SKF which is a company I've had good luck with on other bearing items. But it not connected to spicer as I claimed earlier. Wanted to clarify

 

[G_Raw]

This is true. However, he was very clear on the 2wd being temporary. Seems foolish to me to invest in a temporary driveshaft for long term performance. But everyone is different.




Napa's website claims GMB is an OEM supplier. No idea if that's true, it's just what they claim. That being said, I've used the "brute force" u joints (napa heavy duty) many many times with great results. I think they are made by spicer which is a very old company that has been reputable for decades.

Again, all this repair is temporary as his 2wd is not long for this world. So again, why invest anything other than day-to-day unless the time frame for its lifespan is significant? I would replace the u joint with decently priced ones, and roll with it. Save the $400 for other 4wd conversion parts.

Just read this and agree. Just purchased 2 Spicer joints actually prior to reading it. Not bad price point. Swap the one I know is bad up front, when I pull it if the rear is bad I have one to swap there too...otherwise just keep stocking parts for the 4wd swap. Was going to skip OEM shafts for the conversion and jump to Tom Woods right off the bat for that anyways. I'll report back on the spicers once I do the repair. Hopefully this weekend.

 

[phattyduck]

This is true. However, he was very clear on the 2wd being temporary. Seems foolish to me to invest in a temporary driveshaft for long term performance. But everyone is different.

If the shaft is bad (not just the joints), the only two choices left are new shaft or don't drive...

I agree with putting in cheap (errr... non-OEM) for his purpose, as there is a reasonably high likelyhood of needing to replace the whole driveshaft soon even if he stays 2WD for another couple years.

-Charlie

 

[G_Raw]

I ended up finding a 2wd in junk yard this morning. 60 bucks for the driveshaft, still nice and black unlike mine. It was surface rusted from living near the ocean. U joints are solid on this thing and appear to be OEM. At least non greaseable like OEM u joints. Swapped it in and everything is nice and solid. Returning my 40 bucks a pop spicers. No play what so ever. Hopefully this cheap easy fix will hold out till the conversion...

Still have a slight vibration but. Definately not as violent as it as pre shaft swap. But while I was swapping my driveshaft I noticed a couple adhesive weights appear to be missing from my front drivers wheel. Getting wheels balanced tomorrow and hopefully all vibrations are resolved.