I am wanting to put a 2 inch fron lift/level kit on my 1986 4Runner I bought last weekend! The previous owner put a rear AAL and it sits higher in the rear! I was checking to see what my options are for an affordable but non spacer front lift. I put Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks on y Tundra to level it and was curious if they had them for the first gen 4Runners or if Pro Comp Pro Runner adjustable shocks were made for the first gens? I couldn't find anything in my quick search and was curious of my options.
Level Kit Options for 1986 4Runner?
- Thread starter Ruger2011
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KidVermicious
New member
You have four options. In order of increasing expense, they are to crank the torsion bars, use a ball joint spacer, install a bracket lift, install a long travel front suspension.
The IFS on your '86 is torsion bar based, not a coilover.
The IFS on your '86 is torsion bar based, not a coilover.
Would you recommend replacing the factory torsion bars with the OME ones listed below?
OME-303003 - Front OME Torsion Bars
Can you get 2 inches of front lift with just the torsion bars? I was looking to buy the OME torsion bars and the OME 60072 front shocks. Would you consider this a good set up or do you have any other recommendations.mi am just wanting around 2 inches of front lift for light off-roading. Thank you so much for your help.
OME-303003 - Front OME Torsion Bars
Can you get 2 inches of front lift with just the torsion bars? I was looking to buy the OME torsion bars and the OME 60072 front shocks. Would you consider this a good set up or do you have any other recommendations.mi am just wanting around 2 inches of front lift for light off-roading. Thank you so much for your help.
Would you recommend the Toyec Front Ball Joint Specer lift along with the OME Torsion bars or would just the Front Ball Joint Spacer with the factory torsion bars? Would you recommend new shocks either way for additional travel and if so any recommendations other than OME.
Front Ball Joint Spacer Kit
Front Ball Joint Spacer Kit
They currently have plenty of room to lift the torsion bars. Do you think the 1.5 inch Toytec Front Ball Joint Spacer and raise the factory Torsion Bars would be sufficient for a 2 inch lift or would you recommend anything else? I wasn't wanting to replace the shocks unless it would put stress on other things.
_ExpeditionMan
New member
The OME torision bars are a higher spring rate, which increase the load carrying ability of your 4Runner. Unless you are planning on buying a front bumper you will just make your ride worse (unless your current setup is shot). If all you want to do is increase the ride height of the front of your 4Runner you should just crank the current ones. My point is adding a new set of torsion bars is not going to increase the "range of motion" of your suspension any.
KidVermicious
New member
Like I said in your PM, stronger torsion bars mean more strength, but unless you've got enough weight in front to overload your stock torsion bars, they won't mean more height.
89FourRunner
New member
This has been covered extensively, just recently. A few other members lifted the rear and wanted to match the front.
On a flat level surface measure from the top of your wheel (assuming it is factory 15" diameter) to the fender lip straight above it. With a stock front end you should be in the ballpart of around 13" to 13.5"
The most you can crank is to about 14". It is safe, the ride will feel about the same and you wont hit your droop stops on the upper control arm with daily driving.
If that adjustment does not look high enough then you should consider ball joint spacers with a differential drop kit.
If you go this route, spray the hell out of the torsion bar adjusting bolts with a penetrating oil. You can spray right inside it's frame bracket through a hole and spray the threads good. Give it a while.
With a 1986 you have a lock nut you need to loosen on the bolt (just follow the bolt head up above the frame, look from the inside. Ensure you break that loose before attempting to adjust. If you are new to torsion bar setups, and are concerned with rust and the age of the bolts I urge you to not do it yourself, have a shop adjust them. A good alignment shop can adjust the bars.
Regarding OME torsion bars - they are just stronger bars that you still "Crank". If you are running a stock bumper there is no need to invest in those bars. You can only crank them as much as the factory ones, the bump stops, cv angles and everything are still the limiting factor. Ball joint spacers are a better route.
I would adjust first, and if it suites your taste then you are done, for free. If that is not enough then implement some ball joint spacers.
On a flat level surface measure from the top of your wheel (assuming it is factory 15" diameter) to the fender lip straight above it. With a stock front end you should be in the ballpart of around 13" to 13.5"
The most you can crank is to about 14". It is safe, the ride will feel about the same and you wont hit your droop stops on the upper control arm with daily driving.
If that adjustment does not look high enough then you should consider ball joint spacers with a differential drop kit.
If you go this route, spray the hell out of the torsion bar adjusting bolts with a penetrating oil. You can spray right inside it's frame bracket through a hole and spray the threads good. Give it a while.
With a 1986 you have a lock nut you need to loosen on the bolt (just follow the bolt head up above the frame, look from the inside. Ensure you break that loose before attempting to adjust. If you are new to torsion bar setups, and are concerned with rust and the age of the bolts I urge you to not do it yourself, have a shop adjust them. A good alignment shop can adjust the bars.
Regarding OME torsion bars - they are just stronger bars that you still "Crank". If you are running a stock bumper there is no need to invest in those bars. You can only crank them as much as the factory ones, the bump stops, cv angles and everything are still the limiting factor. Ball joint spacers are a better route.
I would adjust first, and if it suites your taste then you are done, for free. If that is not enough then implement some ball joint spacers.
Last edited:
dsalazar88
New member
cranking the torsion bars
Also get the front axle spacers that drop it down an inch from 4crawler if you're going to do that. Your CV boots will wear out quick otherwise at that angle.
They're 30$ and an easy install.
Also get the front axle spacers that drop it down an inch from 4crawler if you're going to do that. Your CV boots will wear out quick otherwise at that angle.
They're 30$ and an easy install.
