Lift came in, now to install

[RafiBomb!]

Hey everyone,

I've been a silent observer on this site for a few months now, and after doing plenty of research (this is important later on), I've decided to replace the worn out suspension on my 2000 SR5 with Bilstein 5100s and OME 881/906.

The question I have is this: I'll be following Speedy's install video for instructions, but is there anything different I should look out for since I'm running 881s up front instead of Tundra coils? I bought spring isolators, but it appears as if those are only necessary for the Tundras and not 881s. Is that correct? This is where the part about me doing my research comes into play. If a thread about this exists out there, could someone point me to it? All I've found is threads comparing the Tundras and 881s, even using BrianSD's handy search tool.

Also, this will be the first time I have done this sort of job, so if anyone has any additional tips to what's already out there, that would also be appreciated (I've read a ton of stuff). I'm going to have help from more experienced guys as well.

 

[squabeggz]

Did you buy your 881-5100 set up as a kit or individually piece them out? I pieced mine together and one thing I found out was that you will probably want to order Strut Stem Cushion and Washer kit from Wheelers. I bought new monroe top plates and found out that the nipple on the stem bushings for the 5100s are too big and will not center the stem in the top plate causing it to move around and elongate the hole. These plates also come with a new coil isolator (one that fits the 881s). Wheelers also sells these top plates. I believe you can get them from just about any parts store too for cheaper. I got mine at PepBoys. I figured since I was replacing everything else, why use my old and probably worn out top plate and isolator.

 

[0xfded]

I just did this a few months ago. Two tips that made it easier:

Disconnect the lower control arm by disconnecting the LBJ. It made it a lot easier to force down the LCA to get the shock in--I was able to do it without resorting to the bottle-jack trick that Speedy uses. If you're due, it's also a great time to replace your LBJs.

And on the rears, pull the springs out before you go in after the shocks. Gives you more room to work.

Oh, and just take the front struts to a shop for assembly / disassembly. That rented spring compressor was the worst damn part of the whole experience, and ultimately wasn't able to handle the new springs anyway. YMMV.

 

[UnderFire]

I just did this a few months ago. Two tips that made it easier:

Disconnect the lower control arm by disconnecting the LBJ. It made it a lot easier to force down the LCA to get the shock in--I was able to do it without resorting to the bottle-jack trick that Speedy uses. If you're due, it's also a great time to replace your LBJs.

And on the rears, pull the springs out before you go in after the shocks. Gives you more room to work.

Oh, and just take the front struts to a shop for assembly / disassembly. That rented spring compressor was the worst damn part of the whole experience, and ultimately wasn't able to handle the new springs anyway. YMMV.

Definitely this, I didn't even bother getting out the spring compressors to put the new struts together, 40$ at the shop and I didn't have to worry about it.

 

[AZ4Running]

New strut tops are a good idea but you will want the ones for a 4runner if using OME springs. You only need the Tundra top if using Tundra springs. You can use the Tundra 5100s in the front and they are beefier than the 4runner 1500s and have more adjustment perches.

 

[RafiBomb!]

Thanks for the feedback. I've already decided against fooling with a spring compressor, since I've never done it before. My T4R has 125k mi. on it, and I see where this is a good time to change them, but money is a bit tight right now, so I may hold off. I'm shooting for the weekend of March 21 to install everything. I suppose I'll start a build thread so I can post pics. :thumb3: