Lift finally installed...
- Thread starter sonerick
- Start date
Casper421
New member
A 3" is the perfect lift for a 4runner and most people on this site. Aren't you selling your rig? Such a big investment only to sell it a couple months after 35's. :nono:
alex56
New member
Hahaha No, im not being a **** ! looks almost exact to when i had my first 2.5" spacer lift on there wish i had some pictures i could upload of it( might have some in my album) that was a baby lift to me now since i have over 6"! didnt mean to insult you if i did lol Brings back memories on the way she used to look!
Casper: Yes, if everything with money plans out, should be gone by the summer already have a buyer interested... I sold my 33's for 800 bucks so only lost 700 with the 35's and when i see something i want i gotta have it! :bash:
P.S I'm only a **** to people to criticize my rig or think they know it all about 4runners when they dont have the stuff that entitles what their giving an opinion. (some guy tried to tell me my opinion about gas milage with 35's was wrong, when he doesnt have 35's! hees on a stock runner LOL... smh at those types of people! so for future refrence and to keep the peace :cheers::hatsoff:
Last edited:
martini
New member
sonerick, what made you go with 885 instead of 884 since you have a V6? I've been doing tons of treading (thanks ARK) and the spring rates are the same between those two springs just the length is different (885 taller). My only fear with 885's with a stock weight V6 is that it will be lifted too high and the CVs will leak as I see yours did. Could you post pictures of your CV angles if you have time please?
Last edited:
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
It's very common for the CVs to leak on the 4th green after a lift of any size. This isn't a sign of a problem, just a fault in the stock clamps. I replaced my clamps with hose clamps, no leaks since and CVs are fine. 884s with a to plate spacer should have about the same lift as 885s, but should have a slightly better ride. I've heard that 885s on a v6 are a little stiff, maybe sonerick can give his impressions to confirm.
sonerick
New member
I went with the 885s over the 884s because I have plans for a front bumper/winch at some point and don't want to swap out springs when I add one. I was also nervous that the rear would be lifted too high, so I wanted the extra length provided by the 885s to give a nice stance with a slight rake. Personally, I prefer a stiffer ride too. Although on pavement the 885s are a little rough, it's really nice and planted when I'm bombing down a washed out fire road at 40+ mph.
If you're worried about the stiff ride and don't plan on a front bumper, I think ARK_SWAMP_RIDER nailed it. Go with the 884's and the top plate spacer. The spacer will add the extra 10 mm needed for a good stance and will take away a little bit of the stiffness.
deedst4r said:
I think ARK_SWAMP_RIDER is also correct with regards to the CV angles. They are going to change if you lift it, and the 10mm difference between the 884s and 885s is negligible. With any amount of lift, chances are that the crappy stock clamps on the inner boot will shift and begin to leak. I also replaced my leaky clamp with a marine-style hose clamp, and so far so good. I will post a pic of my CV angles when I get a chance.
Deeds, I would plan on re-clamping if you are going to lift it, that way you won't have any surprises when it's all said and done. There's a thread or two on here and toyota 120 that cover the various clamping options you have (stock-style clamps, hose clamps, etc.). Definitely make sure you have a couple of clamps on hand in case the boots start spewing grease.
sonerick
New member
I haven't noticed any. The additional mass is so small and so close to the axis of rotation that any effect is negligible (doesn't really change the center of mass). It's tough to find hose clamps of the appropriate dimensions and with rounded edges that don't cut into the rubber boot though.
I also found some CV boot clamps that you crimp on with a pair of end-nip pliers. I went with the hose clamps cuz they're easy though.
I also found some CV boot clamps that you crimp on with a pair of end-nip pliers. I went with the hose clamps cuz they're easy though.
Last edited:
sonerick
New member
Finally got around to taking a photo of my CV angles. It's really the same angle as stock, just tilted downwards rather than upwards, if that makes any sense (sorry for the road salt lol):
And here is the marine grade hose-style clamp I used on the small end of the inner boot:
Since re-clamping with the hose clamps, I haven't had a single problem. I'd recommend this as a semi-permanent solution to a leaky clamp. I don't plan on swapping the hose clamps out unless the boots themselves tear.
And here is the marine grade hose-style clamp I used on the small end of the inner boot:
Since re-clamping with the hose clamps, I haven't had a single problem. I'd recommend this as a semi-permanent solution to a leaky clamp. I don't plan on swapping the hose clamps out unless the boots themselves tear.
Last edited:
sonerick
New member
I also finally got around to taking some measurements. It's been nearly two months since the install so there's been plenty of time to settle.
Measurements were taken in my driveway with a tape measure from fender to the ground through the center of the hub and under the following conditions:
Here are the numbers:
FL: 38.1875" FR: 38.3125"
RL: 38.7500" RR: 38.8125"
This shows that the rear is approximately 0.5625" higher than the front on the left (driver's) side and 0.5" higher than the front on the right (passenger) side. Personally, I'd like about an inch of rake, so I am considering adding a 1/2-inch spacer in the rear until I can save up for a front bumper, which will bring the front down a bit.
Measurements also indicate that the right (passenger) side is approximately 0.125" higher than the left (driver's) side in the front, and 0.0625" higher than the left side in the rear. I'm assuming a full tank of gas, a loaded cargo box, and the weight of the driver would further exacerbate the lean. I might try to correct this when and if I install the rear spacers, but I'm not sure how I feel about using spacers of different thicknesses.
Measurements were taken in my driveway with a tape measure from fender to the ground through the center of the hub and under the following conditions:
- 40 PSI in the tires (LT255/75/17)
- Spare mounted underneath
- Quarter tank of gas
- Utility box in the rear on the passenger side with approx. 65 lbs. of tools and recovery gear
- Yakima SkyBox 16 cargo box on the roof, mounted on the drivers side (about 50 lbs. empty)
Here are the numbers:
FL: 38.1875" FR: 38.3125"
RL: 38.7500" RR: 38.8125"
This shows that the rear is approximately 0.5625" higher than the front on the left (driver's) side and 0.5" higher than the front on the right (passenger) side. Personally, I'd like about an inch of rake, so I am considering adding a 1/2-inch spacer in the rear until I can save up for a front bumper, which will bring the front down a bit.
Measurements also indicate that the right (passenger) side is approximately 0.125" higher than the left (driver's) side in the front, and 0.0625" higher than the left side in the rear. I'm assuming a full tank of gas, a loaded cargo box, and the weight of the driver would further exacerbate the lean. I might try to correct this when and if I install the rear spacers, but I'm not sure how I feel about using spacers of different thicknesses.
Last edited:
sonerick
New member
Lookin good man! How big is the body lift? Did you use a kit or fabricate your own?
zstampe
New member
I went with the one inch toytec one. Pretty easy to install too.
sonerick
New member
Good point. Bilstein recommends leaving the 5100s on the lowest (stock height) setting when using them in combination with lift springs, so that's what I did. I'm not aware of anyone running the 884's with the 5100s up a notch for extra lift, but I'd be interested to know if anyone has had success doing this though.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
No, he's using the top plate spacer.
The idea would work, but I recommend using the top plate spacer. When you preload the coil, the ride will become stiffer. Using the leveling feature on the 5100s preloads the coil. Using the top plate spacer does not and should result in better ride quality. The ome coils are stiff enough as is, definely don't want to make it any worse.
sonerick
New member
Ahh that's why. I didn't even think of preload. Good call.
