Literally Stranded in Mexico... electrical problemo

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toronto

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Update:
Well, the repairs seems to have worked. New battery terminal, and lots and lots of cleaning and re-attaching. I've become fastidious as far as electrical corrosion goes as that seems to be the issue down here- plus it's an older lady you know ;)
Now I have a suspension problem. Blowout actually. I've posted a request for help elsewhere on this forum in case anyone wants to weigh in.

Hello internet 4runner people,

Help. No really, help.

I've never asked for anything. Now i need help. I've listed a bunch of stuff that may or may not be relevant. This is an electrical issue, and I need my hand held a bit.

Truck was running fine. Now it won't start. If I try several (i.e. 50) times, she roars to life, and once going, stays going.

Now it doesn't start and here's what I can tell you:

a)Battery' fine. I'll be replacing it tomorrow because I don't know what else to do and I want a bigger one anyway.

a-1)Alternator new last year (rebuild).

b)When I turn the ignition, the dash lights dim and nothing happens. No starter clicking, no nothing. Sometimes the lights in the dash go out, sometimes they just dim further.

c)I've noticed the emergency flashers buzz down behind the interior fuse panel, instead of flashing as usual- weird.

d)If I turn the ignition a zillion times, the dash comes to life, and it may or may not start.

e)I have a simple code reader- no codes. When I turn the ignition on, the code ready flashes like crazy, in time with the dome lights, them come on reading things in a mirror image. I'll file this under 'wtf'

It's very inconsistent, and now I'm marooned near some pyramids in the middle of nowhere. I'm in a hotel until I can sort myself out. Please give me some ideas...

Ps- What am I doing? Oh, just driving around the world. 86 countries and counting. Would love someone who know a thing or two to give me a virtual hand. No, not applause, a 'hand' as in help.

Pps- The truck. 1997 4runner Limited. I have a small lift, air bags in rear, trailer hitch, 2 roof tents, a proper 12v fridge, pretty decent tools, ARB bull bars, blah, balh, blah- all this to say that I'm not down here with a bathing suit and a toothbrush wondering what the f$#k happened, so don't weigh-in if you're going to be an a-h%$e like some are on forums. Cheers.
 
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toronto said:
Hello internet 4runner people,

Help. No really, help.

I've never asked for anything. Now i need help. I've listed a bunch of stuff that may or may not be relevant. This is an electrical issue, and I need my hand held a bit.

Truck was running fine. Now it won't start. If I try several (i.e. 50) times, she roars to life, and once going, stays going.

Now it doesn't start and here's what I can tell you:

a)Battery' fine. I'll be replacing it tomorrow because I don't know what else to do and I want a bigger one anyway.

a-1)Alternator new last year (rebuild).

b)When I turn the ignition, the dash lights dim and nothing happens. No starter clicking, no nothing. Sometimes the lights in the dash go out, sometimes they just dim further.

c)I've noticed the emergency flashers buzz down behind the interior fuse panel, instead of flashing as usual- weird.

d)If I turn the ignition a zillion times, the dash comes to life, and it may or may not start.

e)I have a simple code reader- no codes. When I turn the ignition on, the code ready flashes like crazy, in time with the dome lights, them come on reading things in a mirror image. I'll file this under 'wtf'

It's very inconsistent, and now I'm marooned near some pyramids in the middle of nowhere. I'm in a hotel until I can sort myself out. Please give me some ideas...

Ps- What am I doing? Oh, just driving around the world. 86 countries and counting. Would love someone who know a thing or two to give me a virtual hand. No, not applause, a 'hand' as in help.

Pps- The truck. 1997 4runner Limited. I have a small lift, air bags in rear, trailer hitch, 2 roof tents, a proper 12v fridge, pretty decent tools, ARB bull bars, blah, balh, blah- all this to say that I'm not down here with a bathing suit and a toothbrush wondering what the f$#k happened, so don't weigh-in if you're going to be an a-h%$e like some are on forums. Cheers.
Click to expand...

OK, so do you have a voltmeter? We got this man, I'll help, and so will [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] because he's a real cool guy and we will live vicariously through your travels. By the way, We need pictures, of your rig and ALL your travels!

To me it seems you are dropping voltage, like a bad cable or wire or connections. Let's start at the battery, read voltage, then at the Main Engine room Relay block, check voltage at the input terminal. Let's do it!

:popcorn:
 
IBallEngineer said:
OK, so do you have a voltmeter? We got this man, I'll help, and so will [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] because he's a real cool guy and we will live vicariously through your travels. By the way, We need pictures, of your rig and ALL your travels!

To me it seems you are dropping voltage, like a bad cable or wire or connections. Let's start at the battery, read voltage, then at the Main Engine room Relay block, check voltage at the input terminal. Let's do it!

:popcorn:
Click to expand...

Need some hand-holding... please tell me where to look.
 
What you're describing sounds like bad battery terminals, or dirty connections. Pull the terminals off and clean them with a wire brush. Get someone to give you a jump, as that will probably work either way. Even new batteries go bad sometimes, so don't rule that out completely. I replaced the battery on mine and the negative terminal was shot. I went a few days before I could replace it and the symptoms are exactly the same as what you have. It's also possible the alternator has stopped working, or has a bad connection causing it to not charge the battery, but if that were the case the truck wouldn't continue to run long after it was started with the battery already that low.

Try taking a sharp object like a knife or screw driver and jam it between the battery post and the terminal. Sometimes that will make the connection.
 
toronto said:
Got it. It's under the plastic cover with the fuses. Same reading 12.74
Click to expand...

Perfect, now in that same relay block, look for the starter relay. In my 2000 it is upper right as you look from the fender side. There should be a diagram on the cover to help you. Check terminal 2, which should be the left most as you look at it, front most on the vehicle.

What do you have?
 
IBallEngineer said:
Immediately behind the battery, take the cover off and there is a stud where the power comes in from the battery. Take a measurement there.
Click to expand...

Forgive the message delay- internet is as spotty as my vehicle right now!

Ok- voltage is the same at the main + terminal in the fuse box. I'll wait for your next 'to-do' :hungry:
 
jeremyc74 said:
What you're describing sounds like bad battery terminals, or dirty connections. Pull the terminals off and clean them with a wire brush. Get someone to give you a jump, as that will probably work either way. Even new batteries go bad sometimes, so don't rule that out completely. I replaced the battery on mine and the negative terminal was shot. I went a few days before I could replace it and the symptoms are exactly the same as what you have. It's also possible the alternator has stopped working, or has a bad connection causing it to not charge the battery, but if that were the case the truck wouldn't continue to run long after it was started with the battery already that low.

Try taking a sharp object like a knife or screw driver and jam it between the battery post and the terminal. Sometimes that will make the connection.
Click to expand...

I did that a while back (today) very fastidiously. Wire brush, cloth, proper electrical conduction jelly, careful reattachment...
 
Sorry, not terminal 2, it's terminal 5, the top as you look at it, closest to the engine. Doesn't really matter, its the only hot one with the key off.
 
IBallEngineer said:
Sorry, not terminal 2, it's terminal 5, the top as you look at it, closest to the engine. Doesn't really matter, its the only hot one with the key off.
Click to expand...

Ok, popped out the relay and measure the terminal closest to the firewall, and it reads the same voltage. Now 12.73
 
toronto said:
Ok, popped out the relay and measure the terminal closest to the firewall, and it reads the same voltage. Now 12.73
Click to expand...

OK, now we want to trigger the starter. Can you jump to the terminal opposite the "hot" terminal. It would be 3 on mine, closest to the fender. Your mileage may vary. If it cranks, don't worry, leave the key off for now.
 
Of the four terminals to the starter relay, one is hot all the time, one goes to the starter, one is ground, and the other is signal from the PCM to crank. If it cranks, we'll start checking some other things, if it doesn't we need to look at the starter and connections.

:shrug:
 
IBallEngineer said:
OK, now we want to trigger the starter. Can you jump to the terminal opposite the "hot" terminal. It would be 3 on mine, closest to the fender. Your mileage may vary. If it cranks, don't worry, leave the key off for now.
Click to expand...

So run a wire from the one that's always hot to which terminal? The opposite one?
 
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