Local Shop Ruined My LCA Pockets??

[4runherpow]

I understand you aren't happy with the initial work performed by the shop. however as a shop owner, shit happens sometimes, but I would always want the first shot at fixing the problem. it would be 100% free warranty work of course...

I dont really see too much that is concerning. the lower arms can be a real mother to get out once the bolt seizes to the sleeve. some marks and scarring is to be expected. they should have cleaned it up a bit. Im guessing the tech was pretty tired/frustrated after fighting to get them apart.

my suggestion is let the shop take a look, and see what they say, then go from there.

I will have to respectfully disagree with you for three reasons:
1. The shop did not call or notify me to let me know the arms would need to be taken out by an alternative method (i.e. sawzall) and this would then imply risk to damaging surfaces
2. They returned the vehicle to me and don’t even mention the tech needed to get them out in that manner and this left marks and gashes in the frame
3. The freakin guy didn’t even clean up AT ALL after his mess, which is what really pisses me off. At least apply some rustolem or something to the exposed metal YOU CUT, otherwise, whomever says it’s not a big deal is 100% incorrect. Living In the northeast those gashes will rust badly with zero protection and could cause a REAL problem in 3-5 years.

Lastly, I will not have them fix (which is wishful thinking) any work on her based of the completely apathetic approach they took in the first place and their lack of communication.

 

[4runherpow]

Having cut out the cams and replaced the LCA's myself, there really is no excuse for those marks. It's easy as heck to the bolts without messing up the mounts that bad. Sawzall and a decent blade it takes very little time and is a straight cut. Once you realize the bolts are frozen (a minute or 2) you pull out the saw and have at it. Shop would obviously give the customer a call at this point, but it seems they were already replacing the LCA's and hardware, so not sure that would even be necessary here...

That said, I agree that you should take it back to the shop and give them the chance to make it right.

I agree with all of this. And I will give them a chance to explain themselves but if welding is involved then no shot I let them touch my truck again.

Really the photos don't look too bad. I twisted those tabs a bit on mine getting mine out and hammered them back into place for the new install. Plenty of metal there to hold everything in place.

You’re probably right with their strength but I’m not cool with shops cutting into your frame, and one of the cuts is half a quarter size deep. That’s like 5mm deep. That’s not surface

 

[4runherpow]

Just a tip, when you're quoting people you need to make sure their username is included, all of your quotes are not showing who they are from thus, the person isn't getting any notification of your response. Just click the quote button and then type your message under their quote

I figured it out. Thanks man

 

[radlynx]

It does not seem like the structure is compromised. Fixing the broken tab will require replacing that part and welding it.

Just take it back to the repair shop and be civil about it. You will make it worse if you sue them. Lost time and money for you and for them. Relax and let them handle the problem. Good luck!

 

[L8Shift]

any recommendations in the DC/NOVA area for a really good, no bs fab/4x4 shop?

Thanks again for all of the help. Greatly appreciated

ChaosOffroad.com (Winchester, Va) the owner runs a Tacoma, the shop focuses on Heeps, etc.

BTW- they have a welding class this month, might want to look into that.

I am out of Fairfax, where in NoVa are you?

 

[4runherpow]

ChaosOffroad.com (Winchester, Va) the owner runs a Tacoma, the shop focuses on Heeps, etc.

BTW- they have a welding class this month, might want to look into that.

I am out of Fairfax, where in NoVa are you?

Awesome. Thank you!

I’m in Arlington. I wish I checked back in sooner unfortunately I missed that class.

Update:

At some point I’ll take her to see what another shop/welder thinks. The local shop that did the shotty work is not at the top of my list anymore as I have other items to work on and real work to do lol.

So I threw some rustolem on the exposed metal and called it a day. I’ll probably regret not proactively doing all the work now but it’s a pain and not sure I have time. On another note, she’s looking great and I’ve done a ton of service. Love being back in the 4th gens. Those v8s are amazing.

Off topic. Plus one vote for doing the trans fluid exchange using the cars pump method. Swapped out 16qts, cleaned the pan, and new filter. Shifts are superrrrr smooth now. Little tricky to get the right fluid level. I used the “warm hand” technique. When the trans pan was warm to the touch (not so hot as I couldn’t keep it on there but definitely very warm) that’s when I pulled the over flow plug. I had to fill a few times with .5 each time to get it right but I think it’s right now. Slow trickle out of overflow plug when pan is warm, right?

Thanks y’all.