Lockers: stock or aftermarket?

shawnstcyr

New member
Hi guys. I am considering which locker to install. This is going in a '99 SR5. Which locker do you guys prefer? Stock or aftermarket? Also, I was curious if the Limiteds with a factory locker had a heavier duty axle. Thanks guys!
 
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Go after market. A factory locker will require a complete new axle housing or major mods to your existing one. Aftermarket will drop straight in.
Go can't go wrong with ARB air lockers.
 
My intent, if I chose stock, was to put the whole assembly from a Limited in there. Preferably with rear disc. In my mind, if the stock axle was stronger, that would be the way to go. I'm not sure on the axles, though. Anyone know?
 
shawnstcyr said:
My intent, if I chose stock, was to put the whole assembly from a Limited in there. Preferably with rear disc. In my mind, if the stock axle was stronger, that would be the way to go. I'm not sure on the axles, though. Anyone know?

My understanding is the factory locker is pretty good except for some weak washers/spacers that can crush, and ultimately cause a failure. If you replace the washers with a heavier solid type washer they are pretty good. I may not have that quite right but the factory locker is used in 4th gen diesels overseas (the Prado 120 w/diesel has had some issues). Toyota has beefed up the washers/spacers to address the failures. If I understand correctly it
 
There is no difference in the axles over any of the 3rd gen model range. If you go for a complete axle housing swap and you buy axles with it then you can keep your original ones as spares. They are all the same. An ARB is definitely a stronger diff than the factory one so if you want strength than thats the way to go.
Also, there are no factory rear disk brakes available either, everything has drums.
 
The axles in the Limited are not any stronger, as Techno said, but they do have 4.30 gears where your 4Runner most likely has 4.10s. If you swap in a whole Limited axle (Not only Limited came with e-locker BTW) then you will have to replace your front diff gears to 4.30s or swap out the rears with your factory gears. I would go ARB as well. I have the factory e-locker and love it, but if I didn't I would go ARB. Probably stronger, easier to install, and easier to get ahold of. Good luck either way.
 
techno said:
There is no difference in the axles over any of the 3rd gen model range. If you go for a complete axle housing swap and you buy axles with it then you can keep your original ones as spares. They are all the same. An ARB is definitely a stronger diff than the factory one so if you want strength than thats the way to go.
Also, there are no factory rear disk brakes available either, everything has drums.

x2.

Just to repeat what techno has said:

1. ALL 3rd gen 4runners (SR5 to Limited) had rear drum brakes...if you want rear disc brakes, then you have to go aftermarket.

2. 3rd gen 4runner axle with AND without locker are of the same strength. But, as trd noted above, the one with the locker came with different axle ratio.

3. IF you keep your 3rd gen 4runner relatively stock, then the OEM (factory) rear locker will do just fine (if you install it). The rear axle failure mentioned above has to do more with the newer platform (current Tacoma and Prado, FJ Cruiesr) that are heavier and has more engine power...thus, apparently overstressing the internals of rear axle with locker. Your 3rd gen 4runner is relatively lighter (in weight) and has less power...so, apparently, this combination of lightness and weak engine power is OK on the rear axle with locker...failure rate has been rare, unless you put on super size Swamper tires and go crazy off-road.

4. Having said that, ARB rear locker is a better option for someone like you whose 4runner did not come with a locker from factory. ARB locker apparently also strengthens the rear axle...so, it is a win-win situation for you.

Hope this helps...and good luck.
 
An ARB does not strengthen the housing. It does not strengthen the axles either. In fact you are now more likely to break axles, not because they are weakened somehow, but because they can be subjected to forces that would normally be dissipated though a spinning wheel.

This is what you get when you buy an air locker. Look! No housings or axles!
airLockerKit.jpg
 
No, they probably haven't lied, I think people get their terminology wrong sometimes and misunderstand things. For example, if you look at just the actual differential like I pictured above, some might call the metal that holds it all together the housing, but the housing is a term more commonly used for the structure that contains the diff, the 3rd member and the axles.
 
techno said:
No, they probably haven't lied, I think people get their terminology wrong sometimes and misunderstand things. For example, if you look at just the actual differential like I pictured above, some might call the metal that holds it all together the housing, but the housing is a term more commonly used for the structure that contains the diff, the 3rd member and the axles.

:iagree: It's terminology. It's the old "hand me a Kleenex" when I really don't care; any facial tissue will do.

Many 'axle failures' or 'blown rear-ends' are really a failure of the differentials' spider gears or mechanism and not the ring & pinion or the axle shafts themselves. The ARB locker replaces the stock differential (and components) with stronger ones. The net result is a stronger 'axle assembly' meaning the whole thing can handle a higher load before something breaks. If you have an ARB your failure will probably be some other component rather than the differential. And, as others have noted, the stress placed on the remaining components when 'locked' can be pretty high so care needs to be taken to avoid breaking stuff.

My most recent experience with all of this was with the modified D44 that's in a Nissan Titan. The diffs were "made out of glass" and easy to break. TruTrac came out with a unit and overall a Titan axle is pretty good with 33's or less and a TruTrac. Considering the weight and torque that's amazing. A D44 is a compact unit.
 
How does an ARB air locker activate ? I would guess you would also need a compressor , lines , drilling involved in the housing , electric switch to activate.

Much more to it than the above picture I would guess.
 
The air locker activates via compressed air from a compressor (usually mounted in the engine bay area) coming in to the diff through the orange line on the left, forcing the red sleeve to lock all the moving parts together. The electrical wiring simply controls the compressor and the compressor valves. Installation requires drilling a small in the 3rd member to allow the air line to go inside the housing.

arb-locker-animation.gif


Installing the compressor is easy. Wiring it is even easier because it comes with a manufactured loom. Drilling and tapping the hole is straight forward. Setting up the diff requires some special tools and the ability to follow detailed and technical instructions.
The air compressors are sold separately since there are many options available.
 
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