Long Travel set up

HiluxSurfGuy

New member
Well I'm beginning to plan my LT set up for my 3rd gen surf.

Here's the list. Let me know what you guys think. For sure stopping short of trailing arms right now but the list is only in its beginning stages of planning. Would love your opinions and experiences.

Front:

https://www.srqfabrications.com/product-page/3-5-long-travel-and-fenders-kit
- reman tundra extended cvs
- 4" Fiberglass flares
- extended tie rod ends
- limiting straps
- upper and lower arms
- extended break lines
- ads or foa coilovers
- new bearings
- new steering rack install

- need to tub firewall more


Rear:
- califab adjustable upper and lower links with Jonny and heim joints
- metal tech fj cruiser coils https://www.metaltech4x4.com/03-09-...-4runner-rear-long-travel-suspension-stage-2/
- Kings
- out board shock tower
- air bumps
- longer extended brake line
- possibly longer panhard bar
- frame plating

Tires:
- 37s to 40s
 
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IMO

get the 02 tundra CV's you can cut the cup and get more travel out of them.

DONT GET FOAS, i had a shitty experience.

whats the real benefit of outboard shocks... i mean i was considering it myself but i didnt want to go through it right now.
 
whats the real benefit of outboard shocks... i mean i was considering it myself but i didnt want to go through it right now.



The biggest benefit to outboard shocks is for longer and usually better shocks. Another benefit that I consider to be pretty big is having your shock dampening more linear which makes your suspension cycle a little more predictable throughout the full cycle. When your shock is more linear (meaning your shock travel is equal to wheel travel) you have to run a longer shock though. Say you want 12" wheel travel, with a linear design you will need a 12" shock. While if you got say a 10" shock but angled at 30° you can get 12" of travel but the dampening is less effective at higher angles. Where I'm getting with this is at 12" of wheel travel, the 12" shock will stay cool longer and be more predictable throughout its cycle.
 
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The biggest benefit to outboard shocks is for longer and usually better shocks. Another benefit that I consider to be pretty big is having your shock dampening more linear which makes your suspension cycle a little more predictable throughout the full cycle. When your shock is more linear (meaning your shock travel is equal to wheel travel) you have to run a longer shock though. Say you want 12" wheel travel, with a linear design you will need a 12" shock. While if you got say a 10" shock but angled at 30° you can get 12" of travel but the dampening is less effective at higher angles. Where I'm getting with this is at 12" of wheel travel, the 12" shock will stay cool longer and be more predictable throughout its cycle.

Pretty much couldn't have said it better haha. Thanks for answering that one for me AssBurns! Haha
 
For the front:
I hope you have gusseted spindles, If not pick up the Total Chaos weld on gussets. You may even want their lower control arm cam tab gussets.
Id also install new lower ball joints while everything is apart.
Do you plan on running bump stops up front? Youll want to limit the up travel to avoid damage to the shock.
Id spend a little more and go with either Fox or King shocks for the front. Avoid Icon (not so much support when it comes to customer service).
And youll have to cut a lot from the fiberglass to clear 37's up front. That will also be a lot of strain on the power steering.

For the rear:
I have not heard too many good things about califab
Are those springs going to fit? because the link is for 4th gen 4runners and from my experience the 3rd gen/4th gen springs are different diameters
Youll have to cut a lot to clear 37's in the rear.


This is based off my experience. I have a camburg 3.5 kit up front with icons bumped/strapped at 12". I thought I could install everything in the front in one weekend, I was wrong lol it took a few weekends. In the rear i have 2.5 icons with fox air bumps. The rear absolutely cannot keep up with the front. Im a couple years out from actually doing something about it though. It will involve cutting through the bed for a bed cage or a cantilever. There are a couple kits out there for the rear.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask or message me.
 
For the front:
I hope you have gusseted spindles, If not pick up the Total Chaos weld on gussets. You may even want their lower control arm cam tab gussets.
Id also install new lower ball joints while everything is apart.
Do you plan on running bump stops up front? Youll want to limit the up travel to avoid damage to the shock.
Id spend a little more and go with either Fox or King shocks for the front. Avoid Icon (not so much support when it comes to customer service).
And youll have to cut a lot from the fiberglass to clear 37's up front. That will also be a lot of strain on the power steering.

For the rear:
I have not heard too many good things about califab
Are those springs going to fit? because the link is for 4th gen 4runners and from my experience the 3rd gen/4th gen springs are different diameters
Youll have to cut a lot to clear 37's in the rear.


This is based off my experience. I have a camburg 3.5 kit up front with icons bumped/strapped at 12". I thought I could install everything in the front in one weekend, I was wrong lol it took a few weekends. In the rear i have 2.5 icons with fox air bumps. The rear absolutely cannot keep up with the front. Im a couple years out from actually doing something about it though. It will involve cutting through the bed for a bed cage or a cantilever. There are a couple kits out there for the rear.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask or message me.

Gussets and bumps are for sure a good thing to add for the front. I'm
Tempted to run the shocks listed up front for now, but kings aren't out of the question but curious about trying the kit for now.

I'm not too worried about cutting. My favourite part haha.

What have you heard about califab? As far as I'm concerned their links looks quite solid.

Planning on picking up a daily so time is no issue.
 
Oh also, regarding the rear coils. I've been chatting with several people, the 4th gen/cruiser coils will fit alright apparently. I might have to make a new coil base on the axle side but we will see.
 
I agree w/@Meekie4, worried that 37s won't fit without a lot of cutting on the glass. Considering the cutting you have to do to fit 35s at full bump/lock with a long travel kit, get ready to remove a lot of sheet metal all around.

Are you eventually going to run dual shocks up front or stick to coils/bump? Not sure that mixing/matching isn't a problem, but something worth thinking about. Also, what secondary shock hoop works w/that kit?

On the rear, my only concern would be that you're spending some decent coin on a setup that still won't keep up with the front. I think some folks have outboarded the shocks and want to say they're pulling 12" in the rear.

Right now I'm leaning towards a wider rear axle (3-4" per side), Deaver leaf springs (F67) spring under, shackles on top of frame, and outboarding 2.5x16 triple bypasses. It's not as elegant as a 4-link or trailing arms, but it's also a lot cheaper, and I think I can keep most of the trunk/interior space. Plus no relocating the gas tank. Of course, I'm not married to that yet, it's not perfect, and a new axle is going to sting, sting, sting.

Point being, I think I'd build up the front and take your time on the rear.
 
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Gussets and bumps are for sure a good thing to add for the front. I'm
Tempted to run the shocks listed up front for now, but kings aren't out of the question but curious about trying the kit for now.

I'm not too worried about cutting. My favourite part haha.

What have you heard about califab? As far as I'm concerned their links looks quite solid.

Planning on picking up a daily so time is no issue.

I guess just on their larger projects, they seemed to rush through the welds. Hope they dont do that with their link kits.

Sounds like you know what youre getting into :rockon:
 
I agree w/@Meekie4, worried that 37s won't fit without a lot of cutting on the glass. Considering the cutting you have to do to fit 35s at full bump/lock with a long travel kit, get ready to remove a lot of sheet metal all around.

Are you eventually going to run dual shocks up front or stick to coils/bump? Not sure that mixing/matching isn't a problem, but something worth thinking about. Also, what secondary shock hoop works w/that kit?

On the rear, my only concern would be that you're spending some decent coin on a setup that still won't keep up with the front. I think some folks have outboarded the shocks and want to say they're pulling 12" in the rear.

Right now I'm leaning towards a wider rear axle (3-4" per side), Deaver leaf springs (F67) spring under, shackles on top of frame, and outboarding 2.5x16 triple bypasses. It's not as elegant as a 4-link or trailing arms, but it's also a lot cheaper, and I think I can keep most of the trunk/interior space. Plus no relocating the gas tank. Of course, I'm not married to that yet, it's not perfect, and a new axle is going to sting, sting, sting.

Point being, I think I'd build up the front and take your time on the rear.

Absolutely agree with your last point. But I want to stay away from leafs
 
I agree w/@Meekie4, worried that 37s won't fit without a lot of cutting on the glass. Considering the cutting you have to do to fit 35s at full bump/lock with a long travel kit, get ready to remove a lot of sheet metal all around.

Are you eventually going to run dual shocks up front or stick to coils/bump? Not sure that mixing/matching isn't a problem, but something worth thinking about. Also, what secondary shock hoop works w/that kit?

On the rear, my only concern would be that you're spending some decent coin on a setup that still won't keep up with the front. I think some folks have outboarded the shocks and want to say they're pulling 12" in the rear.

Right now I'm leaning towards a wider rear axle (3-4" per side), Deaver leaf springs (F67) spring under, shackles on top of frame, and outboarding 2.5x16 triple bypasses. It's not as elegant as a 4-link or trailing arms, but it's also a lot cheaper, and I think I can keep most of the trunk/interior space. Plus no relocating the gas tank. Of course, I'm not married to that yet, it's not perfect, and a new axle is going to sting, sting, sting.

Point being, I think I'd build up the front and take your time on the rear.

If doing that just use a sequoia axle out back they are plus 7" I believe and are set up for discs from the factory.

My buddy used on on his and has leafs out back with 16" triples in a bed cage tied to the roll cage.
 
If doing that just use a sequoia axle out back they are plus 7" I believe and are set up for discs from the factory.

My buddy used on on his and has leafs out back with 16" triples in a bed cage tied to the roll cage.

Interesting thought. I'm still not sold on leafs though. I really think it's a step back. Though I know it won't keep up.

SAS down the road isn't out of the question though so I'd liked to be linked front and rear for that. So instead of coils to leafs to back to coils. I'd like to stick with the coils.
 
Either way your gonna have to cut everything off once you link it. Might as well throw some leafs under there and get 16" of usable travel rather than waste time with stock links and only 12" of travel. If I ever go LT I'd for sure ditch my current outboard setup and go with leafs and 16" shocks. 12" rear travel ain't shit when you have 13-14" of front travel. Leafs will cost you only a little more than upgrading your current links and you'll actually have real long travel in the rear.
 
Either way your gonna have to cut everything off once you link it. Might as well throw some leafs under there and get 16" of usable travel rather than waste time with stock links and only 12" of travel. If I ever go LT I'd for sure ditch my current outboard setup and go with leafs and 16" shocks. 12" rear travel ain't shit when you have 13-14" of front travel. Leafs will cost you only a little more than upgrading your current links and you'll actually have real long travel in the rear.

I would absolutely be getting some adjustable links so I would not be limited there.
 

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