Looking for best way to install new outer tie rods

[AnotherCO4Runner]

I installed a new steering rack, with the help of [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s video on the old youtube. My outer tie rods also had to be replaced, so i have no marks for reinstalling to proper length.

I have the rack centered, by counting the number of rotations from all the way left to all the way right and then turning half that amount to the left again. So I feel good about that.

My question is, how to install the tie rods in best way possible to have the system as centered as possible when I take it in for alignment?

And BTW I made the mistake of ordering some Moog tie rods, then immediately upon inspection called over to Toyota and ordered OEM. I can't return the Moogs, but I would rather not install them and take the loss.

 

[octanejunkie]

Not sure if Tim and Sean have videoed it yet, but I've watched this video before, it addresses both ITRE and OTRE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVQHgcXEhpE

 

[AnotherCO4Runner]

Wrong Link?

Not sure if Tim and Sean have videoed it yet, but I've watched this video before, it addresses both ITRE and OTRE
http://a.co/cQnfYZv

That link took me to amazon page for firefly antenna.

I used Tim and Sean's video, but the old tie rods had to be cut off and I did not make note of where the bolts were, so I am working from a blank slate.

 

[octanejunkie]

That link took me to amazon page for firefly antenna.

I used Tim and Sean's video, but the old tie rods had to be cut off and I did not make note of where the bolts were, so I am working from a blank slate.

Sorry for bad link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVQHgcXEhpE

 

[AnotherCO4Runner]

Watched That One Today

Sorry for bad link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVQHgcXEhpE

In that video he recommends I use my old tie rod and make a mental note of where the jam nut is on the old ones, but I neglected to do that when I tossed the old ones. I also did not count turns.

 

[octanejunkie]

In that video he recommends I use my old tie rod and make a mental note of where the jam nut is on the old ones, but I neglected to do that when I tossed the old ones. I also did not count turns.

Here is what I would do in that case

1. Lock steering with wheel centered and straight
2. jack up truck just enough so you can rotate wheels by hand
3. Point each wheel straight ahead as best as possible and use measurements to get within 1/8" of straight
4. install tie rods, and hand tight
5. Jack up truck just enough to turn steering wheel and test steering lock to lock
6. Lower truck, tighten everything up and go get an alignment

 

[mtbtim]

In that video he recommends I use my old tie rod and make a mental note of where the jam nut is on the old ones, but I neglected to do that when I tossed the old ones. I also did not count turns.

I was going to mention exactly this that you missed your opportunity to use the old tie rods as a reference.

So, here's what you do. Get the tie rods on and the castle nuts torqued to spec with new cotter pins. The tie rods take care of adjusting the toe. Have the front end off the ground and start making adjustments with the tie rods to have the front wheels tracking straight ahead. Ideally, you want an equal amount of threads showing on both sides so you'll be giving the alignment shop a sufficient amount of adjustment to work with to dial in the toe. You don't want one side maxed out with the other side with a ton of adjustment. This is how we found Dave's truck when we were swapping this steering rack. When the wheels start to look really straight, get a tape measure, and measure the distance between the tires on the front side and then take a measurement on the backside of the tire. When the distance between the front side are backside are equal, your wheels should be tracking straight ahead and you'll be ready for a drive to the alignment shop to have them dial it in better for you.

Edit: Looks like Mike beat me to it. I forgot to mention the centering of the steering wheel. Locking the steering wheel like Mike said is a good call but the steering wheel never seems to lock perfectly straight ahead. If you have a helper, have them hold the steering wheel perfectly centered while you're under the rig making the adjustments to the tie rods. You ideally want a rig that's tracking straight down the road with a straight steering wheel. Hope this helps.

 

[rkymtnman]

I did the same as the OP...no marks but I was swapping the complete rack and ended up needing both inner and outers. I took (2) 4' levels and used some big sliding wood clamps and clamped them to the outside of each front tire - roughly horizontal with the ground. then measured the distance between the front of each level (near the bumper) and the back of each level (under the truck) and adjusted until I got the distance as close as possible...then I hopped in it and took it for a proper alignment.

Worked good enough to get me to Toytec so they could align it correctly.

 

[cccolin]

I installed a new steering rack, with the help of [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s video on the old youtube. My outer tie rods also had to be replaced, so i have no marks for reinstalling to proper length.

I have the rack centered, by counting the number of rotations from all the way left to all the way right and then turning half that amount to the left again. So I feel good about that.

My question is, how to install the tie rods in best way possible to have the system as centered as possible when I take it in for alignment?

And BTW I made the mistake of ordering some Moog tie rods, then immediately upon inspection called over to Toyota and ordered OEM. I can't return the Moogs, but I would rather not install them and take the loss.

what's wrong with the moogs?

 

[AnotherCO4Runner]

what's wrong with the moogs?

They feel really cheap, the jam nuts on each were different widths, the castle nuts looked like aluminum foil, the lengths of each were slightly different and I received one with a zerk fitting, one without. All in all they did not inspire confidence.

 

[octanejunkie]

They feel really cheap, the jam nuts on each were different widths, the castle nuts looked like aluminum foil, the lengths of each were slightly different and I received one with a zerk fitting, one without. All in all they did not inspire confidence.

There's a parts place near my office that touts Moog as the top-of-the-line brand, better than Factory
Needless to say, I don't shop there

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[tarsun]

tie rods are for toe.

take a tape measure and measure the front center of one tire to the same spot on the other. take note of the length.

now do the same thing on the back center of the tire.

if the length is the same, the tires are parallel

you can dial the toes in slightly just to get you to an alignment shop.

down and dirty method and not perfect but close.

this will not help with the direction though. they can be parallel but pointing at a 45 deg angle...

but atleast you can eye it up.



or you can do the same thing from a center point under the truck...

 

[Scramble]

That link took me to amazon page for firefly antenna.

I used Tim and Sean's video, but the old tie rods had to be cut off and I did not make note of where the bolts were, so I am working from a blank slate.

bWAA! :clap2: Forgive him, he likes to inhale exhaust fumes. :biggrin2:

 

[Scramble]

what's wrong with the moogs?

They are cheap junk as the op said & will rust in 3 months.

There's a parts place near my office that touts Moog as the top-of-the-line brand, better than Factory
Needless to say, I don't shop there

Well if we were driving a Chrysler product that would be true. LOL