Looking to buy 3rd gen - low miles

I'm from S.C. and looked for about 2 months before finding my recent purchase.

99 Limited 4WD w/ 179,000 miles, virtually rust free. Paid $4,600. They were asking $5,500.



Needed a flexplate (did not know when I bought it) which cost $800 installed with OEM parts. Also needs a front end tune with new rubbers.

Basically for $7,000 I'll have peace of mind, new tires, and a 2" lift with all new suspension parts.

Be prepared to spend $1,000-$2,000 after the purchase. People usually don't sell a perfectly running car...

Also look for signs the odometer has been rolled back/ if they have swapped the gauge cluster from a different car..
 
Never thought I'd buy a used car/truck with 190k miles on it, but I did, and happily - a 3rd gen 4Runner. What denotes "low mileage" is important. Unless you plan to DD it, the odometer maybe should not top the list.

As an example, mine goes to Tahoe each winter, two to four camping trips or off-road ventures in the summer months and various short trips, like to The Home Depot, etc. About 3-4K miles a year tops...

Have cash ready, in-hand. Set-up alerts, like CL. Be ready to travel, hours if need be. Inquire about rust, first and foremost, IMO. Have them send a photo/s of the underside.

Good luck.
 


Here is another example..

Someone I know bought this 99 limited 4WD for $2,300 cash when they were asking $3,000. Has 211,000 miles, and it needed about $2,000 worth of work.
Again very little rust on the under carriage.

For a total under $5,000, he was able to get a reliable daily driver that will slowly be brought back to life.

Cash is key to getting a good deal.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. Can this forum notify you by email if your thread is replied to? I didn't even know all these posts had been added.

As a few of you said, to me it was not worth doing business with someone who was 'keeping' their word for 6500 and 'breaking' their word for 7000. Doesn't add up.

I will keep searching and def post if I find one. I need another 4 door vehicle for a baby coming soon, so that's a factor to considering a 3rd gen. The plan is My wife would drive until years later we buy a van :/ or something with 3 rows. Then I can inherit the 4runner :) but not sure. It would need to be pretty nice inside.
 
Just for kicks...I have attached a picture of my 85 that Im selling which is part of downsizing the fleet for becoming parents.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20180825_180535872_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20180825_180535872_HDR.jpg
    145.8 KB · Views: 289
Scramble said:
(my 2009 Accord EX-L Coupe) shhhh! :peace:
Click to expand...

Touche. :Cry: Was waiting for it. :peace:
Said what I did because not everyone is capable of or have place to rebuild like most of us on here can do. OP didn't mention wrenching skills or his used car buying experience, easy to get burnt the higher the milage. A Rnr under 100K is a good bet,
I looked for 16 months for the right Rnr under $5k.
From SE, SW, def not from snow belt.
Found one met my criteria: 01 Ltd 198K mi decent maint records.
Maint issues that come with normal 200k mi.
$3450 asking $3800 flashed 34 Benjamin's and a fiddy. Feb 17
I did a compression test in Memphis Intl Airport parking lot, PO was going "what". Have around $10-11K in it today.
I've treated as a Resto, 5 door seals $6oo window outer sills couple hundred.
I'm 2/3-3/4 finished.
 
Last edited:
Are there any things to consider if looking at the earlier years....like 96 and 97? Besides mileage...are there any mechanical failures etc that were more common in the first few years of this gen?

Also, do all years have the OBD2 port? I think I read in one of the links that they do, but can anyone verify.


Thanks,
 
toyotarunner1 said:
Are there any things to consider if looking at the earlier years....like 96 and 97? Besides mileage...are there any mechanical failures etc that were more common in the first few years of this gen?

Also, do all years have the OBD2 port? I think I read in one of the links that they do, but can anyone verify.


Thanks,
Click to expand...

Congrats on being interested in a 3rd gen! They are good for 300-400k miles easily and are solid trucks.

In short, 96/97 had some head gasket issues, corrected in 98, then 99/00 is considered best by many, due to small features like manual transmission or trim or lack of extra electronics, and then 01/02 have significantly more electronics (like traction control, stability control, etc.). 98 is the last dash analog year, but very solid. Personally, I'd drive anything from 98-02, but preference for most "analog"/simple is 98-00. However, that being said, the electronics on the 01/02 are very reliable, so it's not a big concern if I did end up with one.

This thread is extremely useful: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html

And yes, at the top header bar of the thread, there's a few options that say 'Thread Tools', 'Search This Thread', etc. (right below page numbers). Click Thread Tools and 'Subscribe to This thread' - gives you options for various email notifications.

Enjoy and post up pics when you get it! Welcome to T4R.org! And congrats on parenthood! :)
 
Last edited:
toyotarunner1 said:
Are there any things to consider if looking at the earlier years....like 96 and 97? Besides mileage...are there any mechanical failures etc that were more common in the first few years of this gen?
Also, do all years have the OBD2 port? I think I read in one of the links that they do, but can anyone verify...
Click to expand...

Yes, all have OBDII.
Bought my 96 in 2000 74k mi Totaled 2-18 370k mi. My understanding on head gasket issue is that it would happen sooner rather than later.

The 96-2k's are well designed.
Things you can run across are the Locker and or ADD will not engage properly, 8 out of 10 times this comes from owner not using them. Cycling these systems usually gets them working correctly. All 4x4 3rd gens.


This is based on my research cause I started looking late 2015.
01-02's have two design flaws on them as I see it that can cost you.
TRAC System, ABS System.
Trac Sys: The control module can fail. For now they are available in yards/ebay
$300+- neighborhood. I purchased 01 2-17 with a bad module picked up one on ebay $275 no problems to date.
ABS Sys: Can be a issue dependant on PO maint history,,did they change fluid at service interval as recommended, most don't. Go by color of brake fluid if maint records are vague my 01's were, looked as fluid had been changed during the 198k mi on it.
If you get serious about a 01 02 plan on doing this which I have and do.
The ABS/Master combo is $2k new, used is a crap shoot.
Flush the brake system ASAP, run it say 500 mi flush again another 500 mi again. Then make it function lock dem brakes up on wet streets or dry.
I do the lock up often just like functioning the ADD & Center diff.
This ABS/Master combo has Spools and O-rings in it that get stuck together from lack of use, then when used damage occurs.
So far no problems.
 
Last edited:
96RedRunner said:
Yes, all have OBDII.
Bought my 96 in 2000 74k mi, head gasket replacement was still active had it done no further problems. Totaled 2-18 370k mi. My understanding on head gasket issue is that it would happen sooner rather than later.

The 96-2k's are well designed.
Things you can run across are the Locker and or ADD will not engage properly, 8 out of 10 times this comes from owner not using them. Cycling these systems usually gets them working correctly. All 4x4 3rd gens.


This is based on my research cause I started looking late 2015.
01-02's have two design flaws on them as I see it that can cost you.
TRAC System, ABS System.
Trac Sys: The control module can fail. For now they are available in yards/ebay
$300+- neighborhood. I purchased 01 2-17 with a bad module picked up one on ebay $275 no problems to date.
ABS Sys: Can be a issue dependant on PO maint history,,did they change fluid at service interval as recommended, most don't. Go by color of brake fluid if maint records are vague my 01's were, looked as fluid had been changed during the 198k mi on it.
If you get serious about a 01 02 plan on doing this which I have and do.
The ABS/Master combo is $2k new, used is a crap shoot.
Flush the brake system ASAP, run it say 500 mi flush again another 500 mi again. Then make it function lock dem brakes up on wet streets or dry.
I do the lock up often just like functioning the ADD & Center diff.
This ABS/Master combo has Spools and O-rings in it that get stuck together from lack of use, then when used damage occurs.
So far no problems.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this call out. I just acquired a uber low mileage 02 runner fluid is real clean and only records are carfax which shows 2 flushes in 16 years. Drove it 1500 miles home nothing evident, what would have been apparent if there was an issue?
 
97Cruiser40th said:
Drove it 1500 miles home nothing evident, what would have been apparent if there was an issue?
Click to expand...

Check brake light on Cluster codes will tell you more.
This is how mine works Toyota says it's how it should work.
Turn key to on position, during pre-check you will hear a whirring sound which is the ABS motor building pressure in the ABS accumalator till pressure switch senses correct PSI usually takes 10-15 sec or so if driven daily.
When mine has sat for week or more it has done the 10-15 sec run, shut off and cycled again then shutoff. If correct pressure is not sensed in certain time during second run cycle fault code is set. which hasn't happened yet for me.
You can't hear this happen if you just start n go you just see lights doing their precheck thing.
 
toyotarunner1 said:
Yea...thats what im seeing in price too. Thanks for the feedback.

I missed a 96 with 120K this wknd. This guy told me someone was bringing him money in three days but wouldn't sell it to me for the same price so I walked.
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, what price was that?
 
Last edited:
Just joined this forum and can't post a thread yet. I found an '02 SR5, 4WD w/ 130k listed for $9500 on facebook. It looks like it's in good condition. Is this a fair deal? It seems like it is par for the course based on what I've read on this forum.
 
Last edited:
96RedRunner said:
Check brake light on Cluster codes will tell you more.
This is how mine works Toyota says it's how it should work.
Turn key to on position, during pre-check you will hear a whirring sound which is the ABS motor building pressure in the ABS accumalator till pressure switch senses correct PSI usually takes 10-15 sec or so if driven daily.
When mine has sat for week or more it has done the 10-15 sec run, shut off and cycled again then shutoff. If correct pressure is not sensed in certain time during second run cycle fault code is set. which hasn't happened yet for me.
You can't hear this happen if you just start n go you just see lights doing their precheck thing.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Ran this yesterday and did not see any lights and no fault codes popped but not sure my reader would detect it as its a simple big box one store one.

OP - sorry for threadjack with redrunner. On to your thread topic. Its crazy out there, prices are all over the map. Looking for over a year, the last few months seriously. The only pricing craziness to compare is the frenzy for the 80series Cruiser/LX. I was being very specific and finding in every instance the truck was no where near the description and I wasnt willing to compromise or it was sold before I saw the ad. I have noticed the frenzy has only gotten worse but only for the right truck. There is a shop in my home state VA that is now restoring runners and yes there is a market they pre-sell within hours there too. So what Im trying to say is its not only are we competing with private parties to pick these things up its also folks flipping and customizing it too. Im glad everything finally aligned for me and I got 99% of what I wanted as the color is in the top 3 of what I wanted its not the #1. I have a couple things to work on for it and baseline it but now I can sit back on the sidelines finally.

Good luck in your search!
 
Last edited:
Don't discount a 3G that has "high" miles on it. I did and ended up coming back to it. Best decision I ever made was to just go and look at it. Needless to say, I drove away with it. A '01 SR5 with ZERO rust :wow:, impeccable maintenance, new Michelins, and super clean throughout. With ~220k. All for $4k. Haven't been able to do any updates yet as life has been busy (Running from hurricanes and all:wow:)

The more I've been reading here about prices and rust...dayum, I feel good! :humble: hehe.

-mp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 469 (members: 3, guests: 466)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top