as i've said, check the bottom of the radiator. slow leaks of this kind don't get to the ground when parked. it gets splashed when driving. as you drive, the engine heats up and builds pressure which then causes the radiator fluid to come out and fall on the road, not on your driveway.
Losing coolant regularly, but not leaking?
- Thread starter dd-dd
- Start date
Greydog
Member
The radiator usually leaks on the drivers side as mentioned, but you need to remove the plastic clips holding down the cover which is over the radiator and AC condenser, as they are sandwiched together under that cover.
In between the two (radiator vs AC Condenser), you will easily see the pink crust growing if its leaking.
In between the two (radiator vs AC Condenser), you will easily see the pink crust growing if its leaking.
wnelax04sr5
New member
wnelax04sr5
New member
i did it for the cost of the radiator. its super simple, if you can change your oil you can replace your radiator. ill post a full set of directions if you need it, but it really is not hard. you can buy oem for lots of money, or buy aftermarket like i did.
this is the one i used
http://www.amazon.com/TYC-2580-Alum...1-2282-116-1-0&sr=1-3&ymm=2004:toyota:4runner
works beautifully, no real need to buy oem when this is the same exact thing
You might need to remove the fan shroud in order to see the leak. Mine was leaking on both sides at bottom corners... After I replaced the radiator, my cooling issues and fluid disappearance did not happen for a couple of months but It re-appeared and the head gasket was the culprit this time...
In terms of hg replacement cost there are variables pending things like how much machining needed, what needs to be replaced etc... Expect to pay 1500+
Anything less, i would bet the heads are not sent to machine shop and some parts are reused (head bolts?!?)... I believe its rated as a 20hr job! Probably 3K+ at dealer
In terms of hg replacement cost there are variables pending things like how much machining needed, what needs to be replaced etc... Expect to pay 1500+
Anything less, i would bet the heads are not sent to machine shop and some parts are reused (head bolts?!?)... I believe its rated as a 20hr job! Probably 3K+ at dealer
Usually a misfire code will appear. Also when you first start the car it will run rough. Overheating and rad fluid loss are also signs. It appears to be common on the 4lt V6 due to a poor quality hg manufacturer. Typically the misfire happens on cyl #6 and sometimes on #2
forgot to mention rad fluid *loss
forgot to mention rad fluid *loss
Last edited:
wnelax04sr5
New member
so this is basically the short and sweet version
1. drain fluid from the radiator, the drain is underneath on the drivers side
2. in the engine compartment, remove the overflow reservoir, 3 bolt hold it on. be careful as fluid will still be in it.
3. unbolt the shroud from around the radiator, there are 3 bolts on each side.
4. if you have a v6, remove the transmission lines from the drivers side of the radiator. if you keep them straight up and down, you won't have to worry about losing fluid.
5. tranny fluid won't leak from the transmission side if you're careful removing it.
6. remove the hoses attached to the radiator, keep them upright and you won't lose fluid.
7. unbolt the 4 bolts and washers that hold the radiator on, it is much easier to do with two people.
8. lift straight out and drain excess fluid.
9. installation of the new radiator is the reverse process.
10. Refill new radiator with coolant after it is all installed
11. make sure to check tranny fluid level and your coolant level after bringing the vehicle up to temperature.
1. drain fluid from the radiator, the drain is underneath on the drivers side
2. in the engine compartment, remove the overflow reservoir, 3 bolt hold it on. be careful as fluid will still be in it.
3. unbolt the shroud from around the radiator, there are 3 bolts on each side.
4. if you have a v6, remove the transmission lines from the drivers side of the radiator. if you keep them straight up and down, you won't have to worry about losing fluid.
5. tranny fluid won't leak from the transmission side if you're careful removing it.
6. remove the hoses attached to the radiator, keep them upright and you won't lose fluid.
7. unbolt the 4 bolts and washers that hold the radiator on, it is much easier to do with two people.
8. lift straight out and drain excess fluid.
9. installation of the new radiator is the reverse process.
10. Refill new radiator with coolant after it is all installed
11. make sure to check tranny fluid level and your coolant level after bringing the vehicle up to temperature.
Does anyone know if Toyota Corporate will cover the repair cost of the water pump? Since I have been using the Toyota Pink coolant since i bought the truck. I just purchased an OEM water pump and serp belt on ebay and was wondering if Toyota Corporate can reimburse me for the parts.
paraordnance
New member
I'm just throwing in suggestion but could it be water pump seal leaking? I from V8 owners club but I had really similar bizarre experience. Coolant was disappearing but I could not find a leak, anywhere. It was bone dry under truck for months on end. I know V6 doesn't have timing belt but when I did TB service I replaced water pump which had slight gasket leak and coolant was evaporating I guess in a little cavity between water pump and engine block. I replaced water pump and gasket and mysterious leak was gone!
BlackWorksInc
New member
Not sure if its still good after 15 years, but its probably not the correct coolant since we barely introduce SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) aka "Toyota Pink" less than 15 years ago.
SnowyPeaks543
New member
similar issue but I do not think it is the HG
I have a similar issue. Rad overflow tank is constantly empty, no matter what. I have zero indicators of leaking anywhere, skid plate, hoses, etc.
It seems like everyone is quick to jump to head gasket issues, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
04 v6 limited 4x4
I just started towing a 19ft trailer for the first time - so I'd like to upgrade radiator, install trans cooler, and upgrade exhaust.
Cylinder compression test good - all @ roughly 120-125PSI. The lowest is within the acceptable % of the highest cylinder.
I also did compression on my radiator - which after 7 minutes drops from 16 to about 12-13psi. HOWEVER I started the car with the gauge still in place of the cap and the needle was solid - not bouncing at all. Which my neighbor said would indicate HG issues. ( I've seen videos online where the person said you must rev the engine to see any pressure change. I was alone so I could not do this and be looking at the gauge simultaneously - not sure if that was a wasted test. let me know.)
I'm a bit lost. I also tried to use soapy water to see if the rented pressure tester was creating a seal on my rad filler neck - didn't see anything, but I might have to do it again with more water. It was kind of difficult to get the soap upwards into the recessed part of the adapter piece.
Where to go from here?
No weird smells. no smokey exhaust. no white crud on underside of rad cap. or engine oil cap, or any cap for that matter.
I have a similar issue. Rad overflow tank is constantly empty, no matter what. I have zero indicators of leaking anywhere, skid plate, hoses, etc.
It seems like everyone is quick to jump to head gasket issues, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
04 v6 limited 4x4
I just started towing a 19ft trailer for the first time - so I'd like to upgrade radiator, install trans cooler, and upgrade exhaust.
Cylinder compression test good - all @ roughly 120-125PSI. The lowest is within the acceptable % of the highest cylinder.
I also did compression on my radiator - which after 7 minutes drops from 16 to about 12-13psi. HOWEVER I started the car with the gauge still in place of the cap and the needle was solid - not bouncing at all. Which my neighbor said would indicate HG issues. ( I've seen videos online where the person said you must rev the engine to see any pressure change. I was alone so I could not do this and be looking at the gauge simultaneously - not sure if that was a wasted test. let me know.)
I'm a bit lost. I also tried to use soapy water to see if the rented pressure tester was creating a seal on my rad filler neck - didn't see anything, but I might have to do it again with more water. It was kind of difficult to get the soap upwards into the recessed part of the adapter piece.
Where to go from here?
No weird smells. no smokey exhaust. no white crud on underside of rad cap. or engine oil cap, or any cap for that matter.
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