Lower Ball Joint Removal and Installation

[Cjtapp]

what was your ultimate resolution for this issue?

The shop had some sharper reverse drill bits and were able to get it out. They finished the install for me. Prior to the install of my new lower balljoints I had a loud clunking sound coming from the front end. Turns out I only had 3 lower mounting bolts holding my driverside lower balljoint on (there is supposed to be 4)..... :doh:
So im gonna take a wild guess in saying it had probably weakened the mounting bolts all together. Im lucky I didn't have any bigger problems than a head breaking off, when I could have very easily been in a ditch upside down.

 

[hrt4me]

The shop had some sharper reverse drill bits and were able to get it out. They finished the install for me. Prior to the install of my new lower ball joints I had a loud clunking sound coming from the front end. Turns out I only had 3 lower mounting bolts holding my driver side lower ball joint on (there is supposed to be 4)..... :doh:
So I'm gonna take a wild guess in saying it had probably weakened the mounting bolts all together. Im lucky I didn't have any bigger problems than a head breaking off, when I could have very easily been in a ditch upside down.

yes, very fortunate indeed!

 

[BOSSIND]

That looks like the lift time warranty ball joint NAPA sells, I bought their 1 year warranty one and it only last 2 months and was worse than the one I replaced. I upgraded it to the lifetime one, hope it lasts longer and is built better... wonder sometimes if the only difference is the cost and how long they warranty them.

Anyone have any luck with other brands?

 

[Mel0]

Getting ready to switch out my LBJ's and I'm curious too about whether or not I should just spend the extra coin on some Original Toyota parts or go with aftermarket stuff. Also I would like to know what size tie rod end puller you need need to get the job done?

 

[AZMIGHTYMULEYS]

Moog's is a great OEM LBJ brand !! I also bought Moogs adjustable Stabalizer Bar end Links !!

 

[BOSSIND]

Getting ready to switch out my LBJ's and I'm curious too about whether or not I should just spend the extra coin on some Original Toyota parts or go with aftermarket stuff. Also I would like to know what size tie rod end puller you need need to get the job done?

I wouldn't waste my time on a puller for tie rods, little leverage and a shock to the dog ear with a hammer and it'll pop right out.

 

[awthorn]

One word of advice because i just did mine the other week and noticed a loud, harsh popping sound at full wheel lock. Grease the steering stops that are on the LBJs and it will help prevent that from happening or scaring the crap out of you and making you think you did something wrong :yell:.

 

[KidVermicious]

Also I would like to know what size tie rod end puller you need need to get the job done?

My tie rod end puller is exactly the same size as a great big hammer. Unthread the castle nut, flip it over and thread it back on a couple turns, and smack the crap out of it. If you don't care about saving it as a trail spare, you don't have to bother with flipping the castle nut.

If it's stubborn, get the propane torch and heat it until it's smoking, then smack it again.

 

[gmv4k]

OK, I need a little help.

I can't seem to find an easy way to get the OTRE and the ball joint to separate. I've been using a NAPA rented puller and a 5 lb sledge hammer. I use the puller to add some force and then whack at it, I think this time it took 20 blows, it's frustrating. But does anybody have a link or a part number to a puller that will fit our trucks? I now have 2 different pullers but both won't fit and I'm sick of going to NAPA and renting one that doesn't really work.

I've had to take my lbj's apart twice now, since I snapped a head (1 of the 4) and can't get it out. I put everything back together because I ran out of time the last time. I did the same thing today, but I didn't finish because it got too cold. This time I got a map gas torch (ts8000 is pretty sick) but I was too scared to heat it up too much, stuff was starting to burn. I placed some roxul insulation, I had, behind it (but the torch got that stuff to melt). I tried to melt candle wax into it. I kroiled it for days/weeks. No luck. So I put everything back together. I think I'm either going to try to reverse drill it out or take it somewhere. I'm running out of time before it gets really cold.

So anybody know of a puller that'll work? I can tell you that this won't work

OEM 27022 Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller

OEM 27022 Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller - Amazon.com

The inner diameter isn't wide enough. I'd grind it out if I had a way to grind it out.

 

[So Many Roads]

I used the Napa tie rod puller to separate the OTRE from the ball joint without any issues, fit perfectly.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

The Napa Pitman arm puller worked great to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. It is slightly wider than the tie rod puller.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

 

[hrt4me]

I used the Napa tie rod puller to separate the OTRE from the ball joint without any issues, fit perfectly.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

The Napa Pitman arm puller worked great to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. It is slightly wider than the tie rod puller.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

thanks for the recommendations!

 

[deverlow]

OK, I need a little help.

I can't seem to find an easy way to get the OTRE and the ball joint to separate. I've been using a NAPA rented puller and a 5 lb sledge hammer. I use the puller to add some force and then whack at it, I think this time it took 20 blows, it's frustrating. But does anybody have a link or a part number to a puller that will fit our trucks? I now have 2 different pullers but both won't fit and I'm sick of going to NAPA and renting one that doesn't really work.

I've had to take my lbj's apart twice now, since I snapped a head (1 of the 4) and can't get it out. I put everything back together because I ran out of time the last time. I did the same thing today, but I didn't finish because it got too cold. This time I got a map gas torch (ts8000 is pretty sick) but I was too scared to heat it up too much, stuff was starting to burn. I placed some roxul insulation, I had, behind it (but the torch got that stuff to melt). I tried to melt candle wax into it. I kroiled it for days/weeks. No luck. So I put everything back together. I think I'm either going to try to reverse drill it out or take it somewhere. I'm running out of time before it gets really cold.

So anybody know of a puller that'll work? I can tell you that this won't work

OEM 27022 Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller

OEM 27022 Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller - Amazon.com

The inner diameter isn't wide enough. I'd grind it out if I had a way to grind it out.

Did you try just beating on the old ball joint with a metal hammer to try breaking the tie rod loose? Don't hit the tie rod itself, just the part where the tie rod inserts to the ball joint.

 

[gmv4k]

Yeah I used a giant sledge hammer. It took a combo of the slightly skewed puller and the hammer to get my off. I think I'd rather use a correct sized tie rod puller next time.

Speaking of next time.... any body have any suggestions on extracting a rust broken ball joint bolt? It's on of the inner ones where the bolt is exposed. I'm thinking about using reverse bits? Or should I just use a standard bit to drill it out? I've never done this before so any tips would be great.

And thanks for the links to the tie rod pullers.... So Many Roads.

 

[nissanh]

Always avoid 555 suspension parts. These are even worst than moog. LBJ is the most important part in the 3rd gen.So why not get the OEM. If it breaks.... you'll spend $$$ for towing and other repairs and have to buy another set of lower ball joints

I used followings tools from harborfreight to remove lower ball joint and rack ends.
Works great and decent prices!

11-3/4" Ball Joint Separator

3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator

 

[RdRunNNeR]

just got mine done yesterday good write up here

 

[slapdappy]

definitive, i think

persuasive short thread in support of Toyota OEM ball joints:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...tos-poor-quality-design-flaw-my-findings.html

 

[awthorn]

Ahhhh [MENTION=85046]nissanh[/MENTION] , the good ol' pickle fork, every toolbox needs one!

 

[nissanh]

555 Suspension parts

pervasive short thread in support of Toyota OEM ball joints:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...tos-poor-quality-design-flaw-my-findings.html

agree

 

[AndyFromWI]

Just changed out my Lower Ball Joints

Great write-up, it was extremely helpful as a reference when changing mine Lower Ball Joints. I used the Raygestos 505-1299, 505-1299. My only complaint was that they did not have zerk fittings, so I had to go to my local Carquest and pick up two for a whopping $0.50.

I used a Harbor Freight Ball joint tool to remove the tie rod joint, and a OEM 25262 Pitman Arm Puller for the lower ball joint. The Pitman was too big for the tie rod joint.

The whole job for both ball joints took me about 2 hours. I was pretty easy with the right tools.

Thanks again for the great write up.
1997 4Runner Limited
-andy

 

[aeroneer1]

This job was a bit more of a PITA than I expected .. I am still confused how your puller fit nicely between the tie rod end the joint. I had to grind mine down significantly to get it pound in between the arm and joint.

Also be super careful not to even touch the tie rod bolt, beucase it's burred up at all, you can't get the castle nut back on without the tie rod stud spinning. So I had to replace both outer tie rods. The spinning was a sign of excessive wear anyhow.