Lower Ball Joint Replacement

[Clarkson!]

If you just want to replace the LBJs its really not too bad. I did it on my old FJC ‘07 and again last week on my 07 T4R. Leave the LCA on the truck so you can apply max torque on the C-clamp tool (get the big kit, not the small kit. It can be rented from AutoZone, advance auto parts, etc)

1) lift front end so both wheels are off ground and remove wheels
1a) remove CV from knuckle (either have assistant press brakes, or use impact
2) leave caliper and rotor on the knuckle
3) disconnect the sway bar link from knuckle
4) remove 2 bolts from LBJ to knuckle
5) swing the knuckle forward and secure out of the way, careful not to stretch brake hose and ABS cord
6) remove LBJ stud nut, pickle fork the stud out of mount
7) the knuckle is still held on by tie rod and UBJ. Remove LBJ C-clip and spray with penetrating oil. The LBJ will not want to budge.
8) setup C-clamp press with screw pointing upward.
8a) using. 1/2” breaker bar and pipe at least 2’ long, start compressing the LBJ out. You will get to a point where it wont move and you cant tighten any more. Perfect!
8b) with a BFH 3-5# hammer, hit the head of the screw towards LBJ. The shock will break the LBJ FREE. Tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer, tighten hammer, repeat until it moves without the hammer.
9) clean up the LBJ hole and press in the new LBJ “straight.” If you have a zirk, point it towards the transmission (45* inward). I needed a 45* zirk) Grease joint until you see rubber boot start to change shape. Dont over fill.
10) start the LBJ stud on the LBJ mount with nut, dont torque yet.
11) Reinstall the CV axle back in the knuckle and spin on the 32mm nut tight, but Torque later
12) bolt the 2 LBJ mount bolts onto knuckle, torque to spec. Use red loctite
13) lift the LCA so you can Install the sway bar link into knuckle and torque to spec
14) torque the LBJ stud nut to spec
15) have assistant hold brakes tight and toque axle nut to spec 175# IIRC)

Double check your work and button it up.

I found USA made Pro forge LBJs on rockauto for $25 each. Million mile warranty. Both case and stud are forged high strength and high quality.

Start to finish 90 minutes per side and you wont have to rebuild the LCA unless you want to.

How I replaced lower ball joints on FJ | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

How long have you been running those ball joints? I opted for Senkei three 5, but these look promising.

 

[montijo505]

Nice! My wife's look was priceless when I told her I needed to put some car parts in the freezer [emoji28][emoji28][emoji28]

You know, I froze mine and sanded off the crud in the LCA opening and had to press them in the whole way, could barely get them started by hand, like barely.

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[Clarkson!]

You know, I froze mine and sanded off the crud in the LCA opening and had to press them in the whole way, could barely get them started by hand, like barely.

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By
Guess I just got lucky... Think I was due though considering the fight all the old hardware put up!

 

[Drcoffee]

How long have you been running those ball joints? I opted for Senkei three 5, but these look promising.

2 weeks on the 4runner, but 2 years on the FJC before I sold it. I tried a lesser brand and it went in cockeyed and deformed. I have used pro forged tie rods on my lexus is300. Solid built parts. I dont think you can find any negative comments on the internet. I couldnt before buying them.

 

[BackOff]

2 weeks on the 4runner, but 2 years on the FJC before I sold it. I tried a lesser brand and it went in cockeyed and deformed. I have used pro forged tie rods on my lexus is300. Solid built parts. I dont think you can find any negative comments on the internet. I couldnt before buying them.

Just an observation.
Out of 6 BallJoints i have, 2 oem t4r, 2 of the three555 and 2 budget randos that i dont know the brands. Only 1 of the randos has that gap between the C-clip and UCA. Like your picture. Maybe its fine, it is pressed in there real good.

 

[Brentcollins]

I rebuilt my lower control arms about 1 month ago at 189K on 06 4runner. 3 out of 4 cam bolts were seized in the bushing requiring a sawzall to cut them out. We tried using heat, pb blaster and a c clamp to get the bushings out of the control arm but it wouldn’t work. The only things that worked was using a hammer and a chisel and just hammering the bushings out. The ball joint press rent a tool from oreilly with a cheater bar and heat got the ball joints out. This took about 16 hours to complete. I went with the moog problem solver ball joints off of rock auto and the pro forged ball joints. No problems so far but it’s only been about 2000 miles.

 

[chompster4runner]

Tackling the ball joint right now. Got everything off except the ball joint. Waiting on a friend to drop off his ball joint kit. So I got time to post this. LoL

Update. Mission accomplished including new end links. For folks that want to attempt this, have a spare breaker bar. Although I didn’t need it but my bar is stretched. I’m in Cali so rust is not too bad. Major hung ups are tie rod end and steering stop. One side is easy with the separator but the other was a pain but eventually it gave up. Also one steering stop was giving me a hard time too. I didn’t remove the lca so that helped a lot. You’ll need to muscle that C clamp and it will pop very loudly so take care not to slip and whack your fender. Good luck!

 

[Clarkson!]

Tackling the ball joint right now. Got everything off except the ball joint. Waiting on a friend to drop off his ball joint kit. So I got time to post this. LoL

Good deal! An impact wrench and press kit and you should be home free. Good luck

 

[ktom3001]

I don't know, why not just go this route and get a better ball joint, new cams, better bushings. Plus way less labor.

SUPER PRO LOWER CONTROL ARM PAIR | 2010+ TOYOTA FJ / 4RUNNER – NON KDSS | Apache Offroad

 

[Kymudder]

Any heads up if the MOOG LCA are still made in Japan since this post originated 5 years ago?