Lubrication for underneath

R

r32

New member
Time to lubricate the under area of my 4runner. I need your experience help please. I've not done this before but did some research.

The Repair Manual for 2007 specifies that two lubricants are required for the underbelly (zerk things).

For Spider: Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2

&

for Slide yoke and double-cardan joint: Molybdenum disulphide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2

CLICK HERE for PDF from Manual


So I drove to Walmart. They had some random generic brand, but none that said 'moly' on it. So I went to Autozone. They carried two kinds. Valvoline and Coast Oil (or something like that).

I bought two kinds of grease for lubrication of the chassis area but not sure if these will work.

Can you please tell me if these will work? I'm a bit confused on the 'Moly-Fortified Synthetic Blend Grease'.

Grease Types that I bought:

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Durablend_Grease.pdf


And other Grease that I bought:
Formulated for extreme-pressure, high-temperature protection

* Extreme-pressure, high-temperature protection
* Lubricates at temperatures ranging from -40°F to 400°F
* NLGI #2 Grade GC-LB Lithium Complex EP Grease
* GM 1051344; NLGI GC-LB; Supercedes GM 1051195

lube.jpg


I also picked up two lube guns from WalMart for about $10.50 each. Then I had to pick up two flexible attachments from the AutoZone store.
 
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Many on here (including myself) use Mobil 1 synthetic grease for all 6 zerk fittings with good results.
 
Thanks for the feedback!

Crap. Walmart had one tube of the Mobile 1 Synthetic stuff, but I didn't know I could use that stuff. Hmm...what to do. By using the Mobile 1, does that void my warranty in any way?
 
I use Costal Moly EP or Sta Lub Moly Graphite in both places and have not had a problem in my O6. I didn't want to have to use 2 grease guns and remember which is which. The moly is higher pressure so it should last better. It is also what is required for the mower deck for my Deere lawn tractor.
 
r32 said:
Thanks for the feedback!

Crap. Walmart had one tube of the Mobile 1 Synthetic stuff, but I didn't know I could use that stuff. Hmm...what to do. By using the Mobile 1, does that void my warranty in any way?
Click to expand...

Nah, I doubt they would know. If the driveshaft fails, I think they would look to see that it has grease in the yokes rather than the type. I could be wrong though, but that's my belief. I'll stick with one type, like many here has, when the time comes personally.
 
Thanks guys for all the feedback and help on this.

Ok, I returned the two bottles above, and decided to go with the Mobile 1 Synthetic. Nowhere on the tubing can I find the words "MOLY" so that makes me a bit nervous, but you guys say it's good then I trust you guys. I couldn't find anyone that carry's the stuff J.A. uses.
 
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Ok, 2 more questions on same topic.

1. Is it ok to hand-turn the shaft, in order to get the zerks to be accessible? Or do I need to physically move the vehicle back and forth until the shaft turns?

2. How many pumps should I apply for each zerk? Is this usually like a 1-squeeze type deal on each zerk, or should I do several squeezes?

Thanks.
 
You will need to block the wheels, put the transmission in neutral, and jack up one rear wheel to turn the shaft. I give it one pump of the grease gun but I do this every time I change oil (6 months or 5000 miles). If you put too much in the U-joint it just makes a mess but too much in the slip yoke can cause problems as mentioned above. I think it causes the "clunk" when starting that some experience but I have not had the problem.
 
r32 said:
Ok, 2 more questions on same topic.

1. Is it ok to hand-turn the shaft, in order to get the zerks to be accessible? Or do I need to physically move the vehicle back and forth until the shaft turns?

2. How many pumps should I apply for each zerk? Is this usually like a 1-squeeze type deal on each zerk, or should I do several squeezes?

Thanks.
Click to expand...


1) Yes if you can... You can turn the front shaft, wheels on ground, if it's a V6 parked in 2wd. The rear driveshaft requires you to move the vehicle OR chock the front wheels, park it in N with no p-brake and jack up one rear tire just enough to see light under it. If you do that you can turn the rear shaft.

2) I go 1-1.5 on the u-joints, it depends on how much it needs. You can feel the resistance change and the grease will ooze out. The front drive shaft I give several (4 or so). The rear slipyoke is the one that can be overfilled. If this is the first greasing ever then maybe 5-7, if it gets grease every oil change then 2-3 pumps... As you pump it you'll see the driveshaft get longer (that almost sounds sick:bash: ). The problem is if you overfill it the yoke pushes hard on the back of the t-case when the suspension extends. If you are panicked by this the solution is to fill the driveshaft, unscrew the zerk, jack the vehicle to full axle droop and that'll squeeze out the excess. ***Drop the vehicle*** back down and screw the zerk back-in, add 1-2 shots for good measure and you're done.



***I say drop it because when using a floor jack under the trailer hitch the vehicle isn't safe to get underneath.

:cheers:
 
Block the wheels? Hmm ok, I'll need to make another run and buy a jack with some of those stands then.

This is the first time for my vehicle. It's already at 23k though, so I waited a bit long to do this. However, almost all 23k have been freeway miles. Not sure if that makes a difference on the wear of the lubrication. I'll follow you suggestions for pumping.

Time to go buy some jack stands. Wouldn't want the beast dropping onto my head. Nor do I want to deal with driving it back and forth to access the zerk things.

Thanks again for the feedback. I love this forum.:bravo:
 
I do my 4wd V8 on the ground. Just drive back and forth until the zerks are in an accessible location. (A hose adapter helps)

I pump the U joints until all the old grease is out and the new grease starts to come out. You will hear a crackling noise, that's the grease coming out.

Mobil 1 Grease is good stuff.
 
Ok, damn, this is a bit embarrassing, especially given that I have the Repair Manual in hand.

I went under my vehicle and was confused on which part is considered the propeller shaft. I found two seperate shafts each with zerks on them.
 
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r32 said:
Ok, damn, this is a bit embarrassing, especially given that I have the Repair Manual in hand.

I went under my vehicle and was confused on which part is considered the propeller shaft. I found two seperate shafts each with zerks on them.

Plus, I only found 5 zerks listed on the PDF manual, but G.I.G. mentioned there are 6. Although I could barely find 4 under there.
Click to expand...

These photos didn't help? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=28414 I know where they are and still need a flashlight... They can be hard to see.
 
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^I was looking for that thread and couldn't find again! Thank you. :thumb3:

So can you confirm that indeed there are only FIVE and not the 6 that G.I.G. mentioned? I would hate to miss one.
 
r32 said:
^I was looking for that thread and couldn't find again! Thank you. :thumb3:

So can you confirm that indeed there are only FIVE and not the 6 that G.I.G. mentioned? I would hate to miss one.
Click to expand...
3 on the front shaft and 3 on the rear, 6 total.
 
Thanks again Flyer. I can't wait till tomorrow to take care of this. Appreciate all the fantastic help guidance.
 
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