Maintenance Advice on a 2008, 107K mile V8 SR5 4Runner

[RPC]

Hey crew.

I bought my 2008 V8 SR5 T4R new off the lot and have loved it since day one.

It has lived in several states since purchase- namely Nevada, California, Minnesota and back to California- and I take it to my favored local SoCal Toyota dealer service where they regularly tell me it’s one of the “cleanest” in SoCal.

Unfortunately, as much as I trust that shop it’s still a Toy dealership out to make a buck and I don’t feel their recommended services after “Multipoint Inspections” with oil changes or other maintenance are totally unbiased.

Who do I go to for an unbiased assessment of what suspension, engine or vehicle system I should invest maintenance $$$ in?

Stuff I’m worried about being at risk:

- The brake rotors have been resurfaced twice + pads replaced but the calipers and rotors are factory (75% of total vehicle miles are highway)

- The power steering system & fluid is all original. The color of PS fluid is now beyond honey-dark but I’m unsure if that’s significant

- The brake system & fluid is all original. I’ve topped this off throughout the years if the level ever dropped below the max threshold but that’s it besides the rotor work/pad replacement.

- I changed fluid in both diff cases + the transfer case last year. Complete success.

- I changed the spark plugs 8-10K miles ago (@ ~100K vehicle miles). Complete success.

- Timing belt + water pump + serpentine belt were changed at ~98K miles by said favored dealer service center, no issues since

- No coolant change or flush has been done beyond the coolant replacement necessary with the water pump replacement

- At maybe 60-70K miles another SoCal dealer I used to take it to recommended a transmission fluid flush and exchange, which I reluctantly agreed to

- Wheel bearings? I’ve had Spidertrax spacers installed since maybe 8-10K original miles (so a while), but regularly jack the front and rear up to wiggle the wheels and don’t feel any wobble/play and there’s no noise coming from any corner of the vehicle while in motion. I also regularly check torque specs on the lug nuts.

- I clean the AFE permanent engine and cabin air filters per recommended intervals

- Suspension components. replaced all four corners recently with Bilstein 5100 shocks and FJ Springs but my last oil change paperwork came back with these recommendations:

Honestly I want this thing to live forever, or at least as long as it’s within my power to keep it healthy and alive.

What system maintenance, minor or major service should I ensure I do to avoid longevity problems?

Thanks in advance.

 

[xtremewlr]

Hey crew.

I bought my 2008 V8 SR5 T4R new off the lot and have loved it since day one.

It has lived in several states since purchase- namely Nevada, California, Minnesota and back to California- and I take it to my favored local SoCal Toyota dealer service where they regularly tell me it’s one of the “cleanest” in SoCal.

Unfortunately, as much as I trust that shop it’s still a Toy dealership out to make a buck and I don’t feel their recommended services after “Multipoint Inspections” with oil changes or other maintenance are totally unbiased.

Who do I go to for an unbiased assessment of what suspension, engine or vehicle system I should invest maintenance $$$ in?

Stuff I’m worried about being at risk:

- The brake rotors have been resurfaced twice + pads replaced but the calipers and rotors are factory (75% of total vehicle miles are highway)

- The power steering system & fluid is all original. The color of PS fluid is now beyond honey-dark but I’m unsure if that’s significant

- The brake system & fluid is all original. I’ve topped this off throughout the years if the level ever dropped below the max threshold but that’s it besides the rotor work/pad replacement.

- I changed fluid in both diff cases + the transfer case last year. Complete success.

- I changed the spark plugs 8-10K miles ago (@ ~100K vehicle miles). Complete success.

- Timing belt + water pump + serpentine belt were changed at ~98K miles by said favored dealer service center, no issues since

- No coolant change or flush has been done beyond the coolant replacement necessary with the water pump replacement

- At maybe 60-70K miles another SoCal dealer I used to take it to recommended a transmission fluid flush and exchange, which I reluctantly agreed to

- Wheel bearings? I’ve had Spidertrax spacers installed since maybe 8-10K original miles (so a while), but regularly jack the front and rear up to wiggle the wheels and don’t feel any wobble/play and there’s no noise coming from any corner of the vehicle while in motion. I also regularly check torque specs on the lug nuts.

- I clean the AFE permanent engine and cabin air filters per recommended intervals

- Suspension components. replaced all four corners recently with Bilstein 5100 shocks and FJ Springs but my last oil change paperwork came back with these recommendations:

Honestly I want this thing to live forever, or at least as long as it’s within my power to keep it healthy and alive.

What system maintenance, minor or major service should I ensure I do to avoid longevity problems?

Thanks in advance.

What part of SoCal? LA, San Diego? If San Diego, I recommend The Truck Shop. They specialize in Toyota, Lexus and Scion and will give you an unbiased assessment.

Next time you do brakes, replace the rotors, don't surface them again. Rotors aren't that expensive.

Flush the power steering and make sure you are using ATF and not power steering fluid. Toyota designed the PS system for ATF. I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in both the PS system and the transmission. Big red bottle.

Change out the brake fluid when you do the brakes next time. There is no flush of the system, just suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, add new fluid and start bleeding the brake system at all corners. Add new fluid whenever it gets to the MIN level and do it until you get fresh fluid out of each caliper. Easy.

Diffs and Tcase fluid should be good for 30k miles before the next change is needed.

Depending on what spark plugs you used, they should be good for at least 50k miles or more.

Cooling system flush wouldn't be a bad idea to keep the radiator free of debris that can build up over time. Also might think about replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses if they are still original. Either reuse the constant tension clamps or get new ones for the hoses, they are better than worm gear clamps.

Upper and lower ball joints would be a good thing to replace if the boots are torn. That would also take care of the cracking bushings since the upper and lower control arms are replaced to do the ball joints. Maybe a good time to replace the upper control arms with SPC or JBA which will give you replaceable ball joints and greaseable control arm bushings. Easier to service and longer lasting that way.

Timing belt and all the related stuff there are done at 90k intervals on the V8 motors. Your good for a while on that.

Looks like you are pretty much covered otherwise. Just stay on top of the maintenance and it'll keep running.

 

[Burt]

I just do routine fluid changes, minus transmission. May get original serp belt and front grille (chrome ripple) replaced this year. One reason I bought this machine was the reputation of reliability.

 

[RPC]

What part of SoCal? LA, San Diego? If San Diego, I recommend The Truck Shop. They specialize in Toyota, Lexus and Scion and will give you an unbiased assessment.

Next time you do brakes, replace the rotors, don't surface them again. Rotors aren't that expensive.

Flush the power steering and make sure you are using ATF and not power steering fluid. Toyota designed the PS system for ATF. I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in both the PS system and the transmission. Big red bottle.

Change out the brake fluid when you do the brakes next time. There is no flush of the system, just suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, add new fluid and start bleeding the brake system at all corners. Add new fluid whenever it gets to the MIN level and do it until you get fresh fluid out of each caliper. Easy.

Diffs and Tcase fluid should be good for 30k miles before the next change is needed.

Depending on what spark plugs you used, they should be good for at least 50k miles or more.

Cooling system flush wouldn't be a bad idea to keep the radiator free of debris that can build up over time. Also might think about replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses if they are still original. Either reuse the constant tension clamps or get new ones for the hoses, they are better than worm gear clamps.

Upper and lower ball joints would be a good thing to replace if the boots are torn. That would also take care of the cracking bushings since the upper and lower control arms are replaced to do the ball joints. Maybe a good time to replace the upper control arms with SPC or JBA which will give you replaceable ball joints and greaseable control arm bushings. Easier to service and longer lasting that way.

Timing belt and all the related stuff there are done at 90k intervals on the V8 motors. Your good for a while on that.

Looks like you are pretty much covered otherwise. Just stay on top of the maintenance and it'll keep running.

Thanks for the insight, going to get started this weekend.

If anyone has part numbers of recommended upper and lower control arms, I’d appreciate it.

 

[Syr4RinNC]

Some pro tips (from some one not in so cal) use your spare tire winch and lubricate it up if you haven’t used that in a while - it can seize or go bad on you

Also pop off the cover of the rear wiper arm and lubricate up that nut

These are minor things but can become a pain in the butt if you need your spare or the winch fails and you can’t store the spare

Also if the rear wiper motor fails or needs repair it’ll be much easier to get to

 

[Captsolo]

Thanks for the insight, going to get started this weekend.

If anyone has part numbers of recommended upper and lower control arms, I’d appreciate it.

Get AM lower control arms (2) (Amazon.com) and you'll save a lot of money. They come with 3 new bushings already installed and are one piece. Probably don't need upper CA.

I'd use a different shop for the front end. Sway bars are like needed too. Probably don't need upper CA. Ask a new alignment shop.
ainkiller:

 

[RPC]

Some pro tips (from some one not in so cal) use your spare tire winch and lubricate it up if you haven’t used that in a while - it can seize or go bad on you

Also pop off the cover of the rear wiper arm and lubricate up that nut

These are minor things but can become a pain in the butt if you need your spare or the winch fails and you can’t store the spare

Also if the rear wiper motor fails or needs repair it’ll be much easier to get to

Not in a million years would I have thought to do either of these things. Appreciate you.

 

[montijo505]

For the lower control arms, you’ll need to buy the Toyota parts, which are expensive ($600-700). That being said, they’ll likely last you another 100K versus a crap aftermarket option. Also they come with lower ball joints and bushings installed already. Easy swap since it’s been a Cali truck depending how much time you spent in Minnesota.

NEW TOYOTA 07-09 FJ Cruiser | 03-09 4Runner GX470 BOTH FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS | eBay

As for the UCA the JBA’s seem to be a good option if you need a mainly OEM replacement and replaceable ball joints.

Stock replacement UCAs

For the fluid flushes, why not? They’re all easy, even the transmission if you do it via the radiator line. The brakes are super easy to bleed on these cars with a friend pumping the brakes. Radiator is easy enough, just a bit time consuming.

Easy Peasy transmission fluid exchange V6

All of this work can be done in your driveway with basic hand tools. Nothing scary or technical. Good luck!


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