Maintenance catch up

[mwrohde]

As I've mentioned, I've purchased a '98 4Runner. 3.4, auto, 2wd. It's got 193k miles. Previous owner says he did timing belt and water pump at 174k, so I should be ok on that.

I'm thinking of flushing the radiator, the transmission, and the differential. I'm also thinking of doing plugs and wires, seafoaming the engine (not in the crank case), and cleaning the MAF.

Does the 3.4 from that year have an IAC? If so, what do I do with that?

I don't think the diff is a limited slip, right?

How is the transmission fluid changed? Is there a drain plug, or is a drop-the-pan type arrangement?

What else?

Thanks

 

[mwrohde]

I'm going to bump this here just once.

 

[jgue467]

Why no seafoam in crankcase? It'll help with any sludge down there too.
Yup on the IAC, clean it along with MAF (using only MAF cleaner of course).
Center diff does slip.
Trans does have a drain bolt, I'd use that. It also has a pan with a 'filter' (more like a window screen). Drain/fill won't get all the fluid but if you search around here you'll find methods to drain all/most of it.

Have you had a chance to look thru this maintenance stuff? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/69744-3rd-gen-faq-tutorials-documentation-reference.html

Luck! :cowboy:

 

[mwrohde]

Why no seafoam in crankcase?

I'm not doing anything there that may loosen anything up and potentially introduce leaks where there aren't any now. I know that this is a controversial topic, but that's my stand on it.

Yup on the IAC, clean it along with MAF (using only MAF cleaner of course).

I'll see if I can find it, then. My truck doesn't have one. I'll dig around and find pictures and descriptions.

Center diff does slip.

Meaning it's a limited slip diff, or that "it slips - it's an open diff"?

Have you had a chance to look thru this maintenance stuff? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/69744-3rd-gen-faq-tutorials-documentation-reference.html

Nope, but I will. Thanks for the link

 

[LeeMajors]

As I've mentioned, I've purchased a '98 4Runner. 3.4, auto, 2wd. It's got 193k miles. Previous owner says he did timing belt and water pump at 174k, so I should be ok on that.

I'm thinking of flushing the radiator, the transmission, and the differential. I'm also thinking of doing plugs and wires, seafoaming the engine (not in the crank case), and cleaning the MAF.

Does the 3.4 from that year have an IAC? If so, what do I do with that?

I don't think the diff is a limited slip, right?

How is the transmission fluid changed? Is there a drain plug, or is a drop-the-pan type arrangement?

What else?

Thanks

I'm somewhat in the same boat, but with slightly lower miles.

My TB/WP has not been done, so I'll be having that done in the next month or two. Will have them flush coolant at the same time.

I did a trans cooler mod, then a passive transmission flush to get all the old nasty fluid out. I had planned on doing drain/fill every oil change for a bit, but the trans pan drain bolt well had been broken at the welds, so it just spun in place. Ugh. Had to replace the entire trans pan and have the flush done.

Did NGK plugs/wires as specified in manual. Previous owner had seemingly recently replaced plugs, but still had original wires. And he used the wrong plugs (same model, single electrode).

I did use Seafoam in the crankcase for the last 100mi or so before I did a fresh oil change/OEM filter. I'll probably do the same thing on the next one but stick with dino oil. I'm more concerned about switching to thinner synthetics than I am using seafoam in the crank.

I've got a rear camshaft plug leak, so I'm going to redo the valve cover gaskets and intake gaskets--probably do MAF and throttle body while it's all pulled apart.

Tons of good threads and advice here. I'm pretty new to this truck (had newer Tacos before) and have learned more in two months by browsing this forum than I ever have before.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I'm not doing anything there that may loosen anything up and potentially introduce leaks where there aren't any now. I know that this is a controversial topic, but that's my stand on it.

I'll see if I can find it, then. My truck doesn't have one. I'll dig around and find pictures and descriptions.

Meaning it's a limited slip diff, or that "it slips - it's an open diff"?


Nope, but I will. Thanks for the link

I can see your point about the Seafoam in the crank.

The rear diff is open.

 

[ajonesnv]

As I've mentioned, I've purchased a '98 4Runner. 3.4, auto, 2wd. It's got 193k miles. Previous owner says he did timing belt and water pump at 174k, so I should be ok on that.

I'm thinking of flushing the radiator, ...

How is the transmission fluid changed? Is there a drain plug, or is a drop-the-pan type arrangement?

What else?

Thanks

If the timing belt has been done, then the coolant has been done too.

Transmission: Drain plug is on then pan. Fill it from the dipstick hole and start with the amount you dropped out, then check it after cycling the gears...remember to check it while it is running.

This doesn't do a full flush because a lot is left in the torque converter, so do the process of over the next couple oil changes till it is a light red and then like every 15-20,000 miles.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Assuming by IAC you mean the Idle Air Controller, it's located on the bottom of the throttle body held on by 4 screws. You can take it off and clean it but more often it seems if it's bad then it need to be replaced and not just cleaned. You'll need to drain some coolant though to get to it.

Might as well clean the throttle body if you plan on cleaning the IAC.

Common leak points for oil are the valve covers on the passenger's side and the rear cam seals, so if you've got an oil leak that's a good place to start looking.

Look into the state of your lower ball joints and inner/outer tie rods. These tend to wear out and the lower ball joints can fail catastrophically. I replaced mine at 192k miles. They were showing signs of wear and the steering was really sloppy.

Also the sway bar end links don't last forever. The front ones tend to have divots where the bar rubs on it to the point that they eventually fail.