Major problem installing Daystar spacer lift

[ZandT4R]

So everything was going great until reassembly. I found out that the ball joint puller actually crushed the end of the rod going to the ball joint (all the same piece?). Where the holes are cut for the cotter pin is an extremely weak point and the puller crushed the end of the ball joint at that weak point. There is probably about 10-12 threads there and the bottom 4 are toast. Luckily the top 6-8 are still ok and they do all the work so now I am in the process of grinding off the crushed part so I can get the nut past the bad threads and to the good threads. Also the cotter pin will still be usable so I think everything will be good. I was scared at first because apparently you cant purchase just a new ball joint you have to get the whole upper control arm. At the price of the control arm I am better off just upgrading control arms to something like the camburg or the total chaos.

This really sucks though as I have only worked on the driver side so far and am afraid the passenger side will do the same thing.

Anyone have any advice? Or possibly a ball joint they can send me?:bash:

 

[Falls]

Which DS kit were you installing ?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

On the next one tighten the puller pretty tight but not thread crushing tight. Take a mini-sledge hammer and whack it. It'll pop and the threads will be fine.
:cheers:

 

[ZandT4R]

We are installing the 3/2 lift, but I dont think the install is any different for the leveling kit.

Thanks for the advice on the sledge hammer. It says right in the instructions provided by Daystar not to even use the puller but we beat it every wich way with a hammer and it was not coming apart. I guess after that we used too much force.

Do you think it will be safe once we grind off the bad threads? Looking at how we are working on it I am fairly confident it will be fine. There are plents of good threads for the nut to grab and the cotter pin will still be usable....

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Don't sue me if there's an issue but I'd do exactly what you're doing.:bash: While grinding I'd take cooling breaks and dip it in water to prevent transmitting lots of heat into the balljoint (and b-joint grease). It sounds like you'll be fine, you have good thread and a good cotter pin. That's my 2cents

 

[ZandT4R]

I wont sue, I appreciate the reassurance that I am doing the best thing. :cheers: I had my finger on the bolt while grinding it to steady the dremel and it never got hot at all so I dont think heat transfer is going to be an issue. I am at the point now where I am going to get a hand file and finish the rest of the grinding with that.....almost there.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I wont sue, I appreciate the reassurance that I am doing the best thing. :cheers: I had my finger on the bolt while grinding it to steady the dremel and it never got hot at all so I dont think heat transfer is going to be an issue. I am at the point now where I am going to get a hand file and finish the rest of the grinding with that.....almost there.

:dancin:Excellent! Post some pics when you're done Here too... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=51742

 

[rook]

I think using a thread cutting die would have been a better option.

 

[Falls]

We are installing the 3/2 lift, but I dont think the install is any different for the leveling kit.

They don't make a 3/2 kit .

Is it the 2.5/1.5 ??

 

[ZandT4R]

yeah sorry 2.5/1.5.

First off I did try to find a die to rethread it, but there was no way the die would have gotten on without grinding, it was pushed out that much! We ground the first 4 threads off with the Dremel with with a hand file we cleaned up the rest of the threads, after a lot of careful filing we were able to get the nut back on. Everything finally went back togeather and the castle nut is still able to use the cotter pin and there are plenty of good threads. I feel good about the fix. I will post pictures when it is all done.

This turned out to be one hell of a project so far and I still have the rear and pass front side to do.....:violin:

 

[ZandT4R]

Well the rear is done. That was easy! I wish the front was so easy. The rear took me about 1.5 hrs working alone. My buddy will be back tomorrow to help me with pass front. I am praying the ball joint doesn't give me the same issue the driver side did. Wish me luck!

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Well the rear is done. That was easy! I wish the front was so easy. The rear took me about 1.5 hrs working alone. My buddy will be back tomorrow to help me with pass front. I am praying the ball joint doesn't give me the same issue the driver side did. Wish me luck!

Good luck and may the Force be you....:dancin:

 

[ZandT4R]

Thanks buddy!

 

[Trdsupranick]

little sledge worked for me too!

 

[ZandT4R]

What part did you hit with the sledge? The side of the spindle?

 

[ZandT4R]

Also would it hurt/help/do anything at all to spray it with WD-40 or some kind of lube first? I REALLy dont want to damage this other ball joint...

 

[Trdsupranick]

What part did you hit with the sledge? The side of the spindle?

yep the thick metal part of the spindle on the side, squirt of wd-40 and a few good knocks and it falls right out...

 

[Trdsupranick]

when you hit it.....its like takin a woman on....lol

tap tap knock....tap tap knock...tap tap knock and it comes out...

hehe.

 

[ZandT4R]

OK thats exactly what I'll. I sure hope this works better this time. I appriciate the advice. I will post my results this evening.

Thanks!!!!

 

[ZandT4R]

Well I just wanted to report that using the wd-40/hammer trick the ball joint came apart with amazing ease! I sprayed it liberally, let it set for about 5 mins, put on the puller and just lightly snugged it and 3 or 4 hits on the spindle with the hammer and POP! It came right apart. I seriously wish I knew about that trick when I did the other side, it would have saved me hours and A LOT of grief! Oh well, lesson learned. I hope my ordeal will help some else in the future not make the mistake I did. I will have pics this evening, or maybe tomorrow if it is not to dark.

Thanks guys!