Manual transmission (R150F) input shaft needed...

Hello all
I am planning a 'small' project - converting my gf's 2x4 4Runner to 4x4. It is a 2000 manual 2.7L engine. I have gathered so far the R150F, front and rear diffs (3.9 GR) front steering knuckles and drive axles. The wiring is the easiest part. What I've planned so far is attaching the R150F tranny to the 3RZ using the original 2TR bellhousing(which is basically the Marlin Crawler conversion)

But problem is the R150F that I have here is from the 1KZT engine from a UN 4Runner. It has a different input shaft that is a bit shorter than the one used in the above mentioned conversion. The input shaft that I need is from the R150F when mated with 3.4 5VZ engine on the 4Runner. Other than that, the rest of them are the same.

My final goal is to attach the VF3AM multi-mode transfer case behind the R150F so I can make the 4Runner safer to drive on the road and have the center diff lock option when offroading.

Is there anyone here who happens to have this input shaft from an unused/busted 5VZ R150F (however strange a busted R150 can sound :D :D )?

Part number is 3330135090. Here is a link with the schematic - TOYOTA 4RUNNER VZN185L-GKMGKA, 33311 SHAFT, INPUT

Any ideas/recommendations/suggestions are also welcome

Thanks and I will post a full write-up with pics when the whole thing is finished.
 
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The stock R150F input shaft found in 4Runner models with 5VZ-FE have too long of an input shaft to be used directly with the 3RZ and 2TR bell.


I have an R150F from a 2000 4Runner SR5 installed in my 99 4Runner with 2.7. I am using a 2TR-FE OEM bell housing.


The input shaft needed to be shortened 20mm to work. Perhaps the one you have, being shorter, will be a direct fit.


I am interested in hearing more about this shorter input shaft as you mention. If 20mm shorter than the version that my R150F had, then we may have found a direct replacement option...


Bringing the excess splines down to the same diameter as the pilot bearing's ID.
31860321693_53277dd7aa_b.jpg

32632058206_83df708225_b.jpg

32672542955_972dc20c02_b.jpg


The final cut:
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Done, with throwout, bell housing, and clutch fork installed.
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32672543635_3b5dba5926_b.jpg
 
The center diff lock does nothing for you offroad. It makes the rig AWD. 4-hi & 4-low are better offroad. Get an e-locker for more offroad capability.
 
I am interested in hearing more about this shorter input shaft as you mention. If 20mm shorter than the version that my R150F had, then we may have found a direct replacement option...

Thanks a lot for the insight. Got one question - those 20mm you cut off, are they the exact amount that you calculated with no tolerance to be any shorter, or was that measurement the minimum that needed to be cut, to couple together the transmission and engine?

There was a guy who did a 3RZ to 1KZ conversion 10 years ago. His weblink is not active anymore, but I have the page saved.

He did mentioned that the 5VZ transmission's input shaft is longer with 'about 30mm' than the one used in the 1KZ configuration.

In your picture, the shortened shaft does look similar to what the original shaft looks like on the 1KZ transmission i have here.

Do you remember what is the length of the input shaft after you cut it, and how long the splines are?

Were there any other modifications you did when you installed the transmission to the 3RZ with the 2TR bellh?

Let me know
Thanks.

picture with the tape measure is on the one I have here, the other is of the guy who compares the two shafts during the engine swap.
 

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The center diff lock does nothing for you offroad. It makes the rig AWD. 4-hi & 4-low are better offroad. Get an e-locker for more offroad capability.

Oh I am ahead of the game on my 4R! Got the multi-mode and diff locks... :cool:
 

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BTW - I just read thru your writeup where you realized that the input shaft is 'about 30mm too long'! (Quoting you directly)

The guy who did a swap from gasoline to diesel, said the same exact thing!

I think we just found a direct replacement shaft for the R150F when being mounted to the 3RZ.

The part number is 3330135110 (here is a link to the schematic - TOYOTA 4RUNNER KZN185L-GKMSX, 33311 SHAFT, INPUT, but will keep you guys updated when I reach to the same point.
 

Hello COB
Can you share some opinion on the transmission conversion?
Did you observe any issues, aside from the input shaft being not the right length, while doing this project?

Is there anything specific to watch out for or prepare before starting?

Any advice/recommendations at hand, would be really appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Pavel
 
Hello COB
Can you share some opinion on the transmission conversion?
Did you observe any issues, aside from the input shaft being not the right length, while doing this project?

Is there anything specific to watch out for or prepare before starting?

Any advice/recommendations at hand, would be really appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Pavel


Hi Pavel,



I am not as active in my forumgoing as years past, my apologies.


Everything was very straightforward with the exception of the input shaft. I have used two different 2TR-FE bell housings, one of them was a slight bit different and interfered with the front driveshaft flange. A little trimming of the bell in that area did the trick.


I am strongly considering placing an order for this shaft and replacing it and the transmission bearings. Did you ever venture to do so?
 
Hey again COB
My dad is shipping a crate with some parts for the runners here in Bulgaria withing the next few months. The bell housing, steering knuckles, drive shafts, etc. Parts are all harder to find here than they are in the US.

When you say that you used two different bell housings, were they under 2 different part numbers? Also did one of them not fit at all? Or would they both fit after the trimming you mentioned?

I will let you know how it goes when I start to work on it



Everything was very straightforward with the exception of the input shaft. I have used two different 2TR-FE bell housings, one of them was a slight bit different and interfered with the front driveshaft flange. A little trimming of the bell in that area did the trick.
 
pavelvoivoda,

Did you complete for 3RZ-R150 installation? What input shaft did you use?

I am currently looking at options for installing a 99 R150 trans into my truck with a boosted 3RZ. I am trying to use the late model R150 so it is easier to install R452 overdrive gears.
 
pavelvoivoda,

Did you complete for 3RZ-R150 installation? What input shaft did you use?

I am currently looking at options for installing a 99 R150 trans into my truck with a boosted 3RZ. I am trying to use the late model R150 so it is easier to install R452 overdrive gears.

I am waiting for my dad to send me some parts from the US. It is the clutch bell housing, along with other parts. It is the main part that would allow to assemble the r150 transmission and vf3am transfer case to the 3rz engine.

The input shaft is shorter, as COB mentioned. It is shorter by as much as COB mentioned that he shortened the input shaft on his r150f.

Over here, the 4Runners have r150 attached to the 1kz engine, that already have a shorter input shaft... so I dont have to change it.

There is a picture above in the thread.
I think it may be a near the end of the year when i will start actually working on it. will see...

When you said boosted 3rz, what do you mean?
 
Pavelvoivoda,

I look forward to hearing about your final installation.

I drive a ‘96 2wd Tacoma. I swapped in a 3RZ and bought a turbo kit from KO Racing (this is what I mean by ‘boosted’). I currently do not run it with a lot of boost, but I would like to.

I have the stock W58 trans and a 7.5” third member. I bought a R150 trans from a wreckedp S-Runner and a V6 axle from a friend. I recently acquired an R155 bellhousing and thought I was ready to install everything. Then I realized that my input shaft was too long.

As I see it, the Tacoma era R150 input shafts are loo long and cannot be used ‘as is’. And the pre-Tacoma input shafts are a little short, but can be used with a longer pilot bearing.

My options, I think, are 1) shorten the Tacoma R150 input shaft, 2) run an older Pre-Tacoma input shaft or 3) find an appropriate input shaft from an R155 or ????
 

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