Marlin and Inchworm Transfer Case Help

Northeast_T4R

Northeast_T4R

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Has anybody every swapped out there stock transfer case with an inchworm/marlin lefty transfer case? I am seriously considering this mod as i was just told my tcase actuator motor/switch is bad and the dealer wants $2100 buck to replace it. I can buy a left for $2400 and have already have a friend of mine who's very wrench savvy willing to help me install it. I'm looking for any feedback, advise, etc.
 
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i've got one installed in my 07 tacoma.. what kind of questions do you have? might be able to answer some of them.
 
I'm am curious how the new lefty will affect my A-Trac, VSC and DownHill assist. I know I will no longer have a center locking diff, but I hoping that button that was used for this will still disengage the ATRAC and VSC when pushed. Do I need to do a speedo rewiring, etc.
 
depends on how the speedo reads on the runners. my truck was a manual transmission and read the speed from a sensor in the back of the transfercase so i did have to extend the wiring for it to reach the new case since i did a crawler as well. i know the automatic tacomas read the speed from each of the 4 wheel sensors so it is not affected. might look and see if you have a sensor at the back of the transfer case but i'm gonna guess yours reads from the wheel sensors so it shouldn't be affected.
 
one thing you do have to fool with is the wiring from the original 4wd switch. you still have to use the stock switch to engage the front ADD so you have to fool it into thinking that the transfer case has engaged. either that your you can completely bypass the system and put in your own switch like i did, now i just have a rocker that locks and unlocks the front ADD system.
 
I'm pretty sure the speedo reads from the wheel sensors. I will probably remove my old 4wd knob and locate the ADD switch there. The one thing that may be a little tricky is the LS center locking diff in the tcase. That will go away with the Lefty. Should be an interesting venture.
 
Northeast_T4R said:
I'm pretty sure the speedo reads from the wheel sensors. I will probably remove my old 4wd knob and locate the ADD switch there. The one thing that may be a little tricky is the LS center locking diff in the tcase. That will go away with the Lefty. Should be an interesting venture.
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I dunno but I would suspect the electronics may be tricky. Getting the dash lights to annunciate properly is one thing. Another issue may be the VSC. The VSC 'looks' to see if the center-diff is locked or unlocked. Perhaps the stock 4wd switch should run a dummy load to fool the system.
 
CJ3Flyr said:
I dunno but I would suspect the electronics may be tricky. Getting the dash lights to annunciate properly is one thing. Another issue may be the VSC. The VSC 'looks' to see if the center-diff is locked or unlocked. Perhaps the stock 4wd switch should run a dummy load to fool the system.
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i'm sure that can be done.. would need a copy of the wiring diagram though to figure it all out. it took me several hours of staring at the diagram on mine to finally figure out how to bypass everything. it no longer uses the stock 4wd computer at all.
 
CJ3Flyr said:
I dunno but I would suspect the electronics may be tricky. Getting the dash lights to annunciate properly is one thing. Another issue may be the VSC. The VSC 'looks' to see if the center-diff is locked or unlocked. Perhaps the stock 4wd switch should run a dummy load to fool the system.
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Yeah, this is the one piece that is bothering me a little. I know when I push the center diff button, it deactivates the ATRAV and VSC system. If I can fool the system, I'm hoping maybe that button will now just turn the ATRAC and VSC system on and off.
 
Northeast_T4R said:
Yeah, this is the one piece that is bothering me a little. I know when I push the center diff button, it deactivates the ATRAV and VSC system. If I can fool the system, I'm hoping maybe that button will now just turn the ATRAC and VSC system on and off.
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should be able to do just that. typically on the toyota systems it sends the command to the actuators, then a sensor on the system will send a signal back saying that it did in fact engage, so its just a matter of getting it to send that signal back saying its engaged and the rest (atrac, vsc) would operate as normal.
 
fire931 said:
should be able to do just that. typically on the toyota systems it sends the command to the actuators, then a sensor on the system will send a signal back saying that it did in fact engage, so its just a matter of getting it to send that signal back saying its engaged and the rest (atrac, vsc) would operate as normal.
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I think I'm going to buy the electrical manual for the 4runner so I can figure out the wiring and come up with a game plan. If I can get it all worked out before Lefty shows up, the install will hopefully go much quicker.
 
did you order the lefty directly from inchworm? if so give Jim a call, he is super helpful. he actually helped me work out the wiring diagram for the tacoma to make everything work properly, is possibly he has already figured it out.
 
I actually talked to both Marlin and Inchworm. They were both very helpful. I ordered from Marlin.

I also spent about 5-hours today playing around with the tcase actuator/motor. I took off the cover and dissassembled the guts. Cleaned it out, etc. I then removed both the center diff and HI-LO motor and put a 9V battery across them. They both worked. As far as everything, it's just switches. I'm starting to think it may not be the actuator..... Now I'm realy confused.

I hate this computerized crap!!! I also cannot believe Toyota charges $1000 for a part that has no more than $100 worth of tiny parts in it. What a joke.

After I put everything back together, still no luck..
 
gotcha. the way i ended up wiring my front ADD it completly bypasses all the stock computers, the only part of the system that is used is the ADD acutator and the light on the dash to confirm engagement.
 
fire931 said:
gotcha. the way i ended up wiring my front ADD it completly bypasses all the stock computers, the only part of the system that is used is the ADD acutator and the light on the dash to confirm engagement.
Click to expand...

Yup. After yesterday. I'm going the same route. Install a simple switch to engage the hubs and get that lefty installed. At this point, I could care less if the ATRAC and VSC work. I've got lockers up front and in back.

I am becoming good friends with the FSM and will wrench on my own truck. The dealer's mechanic couldn't even put the skids on without stripping some of the bolts, losing bolts and then cross-threading some bolts. It took me almost two hours to get the damn things off.. What a hack. LOL
 
if you want i can email you the wiring diagram that jim and i came up with. not exactly sure if they run the same system or not since you have all that extra stuff that my truck didnt but may be worth a try for ya....

the trick to wiring in a switch for the ADD is that the motor only needs a signal, not constant power. thus you have to use a momentary switch to activate and disengage.... i chose a carling 3way momentary switch and its been working really good.
 
fire931 said:
if you want i can email you the wiring diagram that jim and i came up with. not exactly sure if they run the same system or not since you have all that extra stuff that my truck didnt but may be worth a try for ya....

the trick to wiring in a switch for the ADD is that the motor only needs a signal, not constant power. thus you have to use a momentary switch to activate and disengage.... i chose a carling 3way momentary switch and its been working really good.
Click to expand...

Yes... Please send me what you have. Everything is similar except for my locking center diff. I'm sure it will be very helpful.

Thanks
 
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