Mass air flow sensor
- Thread starter boltaction_ghillie
- Start date
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Here's the Denso sensor PN# http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-mica-next-adventure-build-2.html#post2190487
Denso is the OEM mfc for the MAF sensor
ZionXIX
New member
Apparently I have the "wind tunnel" style of MAF. The Denso website does not list one for my 96. Also the current MAF looks to be after market as there are no brand markings.
I cleaned it pretty good, just waiting for it to dry.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Attachments
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Oh got it. Sorry.
ZionXIX
New member
That's ok, I appreciate the info anyway. I did find some other aftermarket brands that make the 96 MAF. Cardone, Duralast, Dorman, etc......
Interestingly, after I cleaned the MAF, she started up fine (after realizing it was still unplugged) and I took a test drive. Steep climb did great, O/D is working again. However she did die on me waiting in line at the gas station while hold the brake in drive. I've attempted to replicate it in my driveway but she just won't do it. In drive I'm idling @ 850, in park @ 1200 RPM. Are those good numbers?
I hate using aftermarket parts but funds are kind of low. If I end up replacing the MAF later, what brand is best?
-z
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Justin727
New member
I tried an A1 cardone from Oreilly's on my 2001 and it didn't do well.
I did however order a Denso from Advance and it works fine.
ZionXIX
New member
Unfortunately, the Denso is not an option for me. I might try a Duralast if I have to.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
AntleredRuin
New member
I tried one of these when trying to diagnose an intermittent stalling issue (that I later found was the FPR)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WHKKGY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not OEM, but fit perfectly and there was no change in Power/Economy with it. I actually put the original back in and have this one as a backup.
Reviews are pretty good. Some people state it only lasts around 2 years, but at a 5th of the price of OEM, that's a risk I'm willing to take. Hell, buy 2 (one for backup) and still come out good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WHKKGY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not OEM, but fit perfectly and there was no change in Power/Economy with it. I actually put the original back in and have this one as a backup.
Reviews are pretty good. Some people state it only lasts around 2 years, but at a 5th of the price of OEM, that's a risk I'm willing to take. Hell, buy 2 (one for backup) and still come out good.
Are you certain your MAF is defective? If you are I have a prefectly working one. It is genuine Toyota and I am located in Canada so the shipping would cost a bit more. PM me if you are interested.
Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
ZionXIX
New member
I cleaned it, and that seems to have alleviated most of my idle issues. I'm just trying to plan ahead in case the MAF kicks the bucket. Thanks for the offer.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
I would clean the MAF one more time with MAF cleaner as well at the TB with carb cleaner. Also, unplug the EFI fuse while you do it.
godfearer22005
New member
Low power to wheels at start
I am having trouble starting a new thread but I decided to reply to the most relevant thread.
I have a 1999 4 Runner 5VZ-FE that I bought on craigslist a few weeks ago. Ever since I have owned it I have noticed that I have an engine light (O2 sensor/"too lean"). I also am noticing that for about 5 minutes after I start the vehicle on a cold start, I have greatly decreased power to wheels. It accelerates normal for the first 20% of throttle but thereafter it gets bogged down like a weedwhacker that too rich. This seems to resolve without any problems after a few minutes.
I just took a look at the spark plugs and they actually look good although there is only one ground on them. The air filter is clean. I am getting just over 20mpg as it is now.
I think the power to the wheels, whether in the first 5 minutes or not, isn't quite where it should be. It is shifting down to get up minor inclines at 60-70mph. Any other suggestions?
I am having trouble starting a new thread but I decided to reply to the most relevant thread.
I have a 1999 4 Runner 5VZ-FE that I bought on craigslist a few weeks ago. Ever since I have owned it I have noticed that I have an engine light (O2 sensor/"too lean"). I also am noticing that for about 5 minutes after I start the vehicle on a cold start, I have greatly decreased power to wheels. It accelerates normal for the first 20% of throttle but thereafter it gets bogged down like a weedwhacker that too rich. This seems to resolve without any problems after a few minutes.
I just took a look at the spark plugs and they actually look good although there is only one ground on them. The air filter is clean. I am getting just over 20mpg as it is now.
I think the power to the wheels, whether in the first 5 minutes or not, isn't quite where it should be. It is shifting down to get up minor inclines at 60-70mph. Any other suggestions?
The 3.4 MAF design changed in 99. For those with the earlier wind tunnel version - prepare for the sticker shock for replacement cost (noted earlier... +-$600)!
One less expensive option is to swap to the later 99+ version (about $100). I did it probably 7 years ago, so I know it's possible and it works.
The airbox is different, so you'll need to replace that with the later 3rd Gen (or Tacoma) airbox, and the plug needs a few of the wires re-pinned to different locations - this was the only challenging part of the operation (making it look factory). The later airbox is bolt in - no modifications needed on that.
Info here:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?3888-97-4runner-to-99-4runner-airbox-MAF-conversion
One less expensive option is to swap to the later 99+ version (about $100). I did it probably 7 years ago, so I know it's possible and it works.
The airbox is different, so you'll need to replace that with the later 3rd Gen (or Tacoma) airbox, and the plug needs a few of the wires re-pinned to different locations - this was the only challenging part of the operation (making it look factory). The later airbox is bolt in - no modifications needed on that.
Info here:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?3888-97-4runner-to-99-4runner-airbox-MAF-conversion
Last edited:
I had a MAF sensor related engine code for months before I realized I was spraying cleaner on the wrong part of it. The amber crystal is not what needs spraying, or at least no the only part. There is a wire in the smaller tube beside the large cylinder with the crystal. THAT is what needs sprayed with cleaner. There were videos on youtube that even got this wrong.
