Maxtrax mounting on stock 2017 rack?

tls3601

New member
So my sweetheart ponies up big and got me a set of Orange Maxtrax boards! I am looking for a good way to mount them on the stock roof rack of a 2017 SR5. Any input much appreciated and Merry Christmas to everyone out there!
 
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Zip ties and call it a day

Zip ties can work loose. Zip ties can be cut against any rough edge releasing unsecured cargo. Where I live unsecured cargo is a big penalty. My work strictly forbids zip tie for tie downs. Leather straps with metal buckles are ok. We had numerous techs that had zip ties fail. The large , wide buckle zip ties failed. Strong zip ties will stretch too.
 
Zip ties can work loose. Zip ties can be cut against any rough edge releasing unsecured cargo. Where I live unsecured cargo is a big penalty. My work strictly forbids zip tie for tie downs. Leather straps with metal buckles are ok. We had numerous techs that had zip ties fail. The large , wide buckle zip ties failed. Strong zip ties will stretch too.

He was kidding...
 
I just did this a week ago. I kept the crossbars on the truck so I didn't have to deal with keeping them still. Put the Maxtrax up there and mark the hole locations, put a .5" thick piece of wood under the cross bars, and drill through with a 3/8" bit. You will have to watch the angle in which you're drilling since the cross bars are curved, as it may end up being somewhat difficult to place the boards on the pins if they aren't close to parallel.

You will also have to remove the little rubber inserts toward the back ends of the roof rails. They'll just pop out with a screwdriver.
 
I just did this a week ago. I kept the crossbars on the truck so I didn't have to deal with keeping them still. Put the Maxtrax up there and mark the hole locations, put a .5" thick piece of wood under the cross bars, and drill through with a 3/8" bit. You will have to watch the angle in which you're drilling since the cross bars are curved, as it may end up being somewhat difficult to place the boards on the pins if they aren't close to parallel.

You will also have to remove the little rubber inserts toward the back ends of the roof rails. They'll just pop out with a screwdriver.

Can you post up some pics? What rubber tabs are you referring to? I don’t see them on my rails.
 
That looks ghetto as ****, and doesn’t have a locking system like the maxtrax pins.....

Alrighty then... You do you with your whole “drill through the f-ing crossbars” thing. Looks superb, bro. If you need a lock, stick a padlock through the hole in the bolt. I’ve never had a need to lock my boards up because I wheel in the middle of nowhere... but since you’re probably only doing mall crawling I can see why your boards might get stolen.
 
Alrighty then... You do you with your whole “drill through the f-ing crossbars” thing. Looks superb, bro. If you need a lock, stick a padlock through the hole in the bolt. I’ve never had a need to lock my boards up because I wheel in the middle of nowhere... but since you’re probably only doing mall crawling I can see why your boards might get stolen.

Yeah...you’re really shredding up the trails on those c rated 265s and nerf bars brah!

I didn’t know drilling a couple 4mm holes into crossbars that aren’t even visible was such a big concern :wacko:
 
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I’m really confused. I just posted a mounting option and you turned on douchebag mode level 11. I wasn’t aware that attaching some removable Yakima mounts warranted such a rude comment. I didn’t start a war and I have no intention to continue it.

b2b56af965e1f04c6caf76f052b1da23.jpg


Happy holidays!


Yeah...you’re really shredding up the trails on those c rated 265s and nerf bars brah!

I didn’t know drilling a couple 4mm holes into crossbars that aren’t even visible was such a big concern :wacko:






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When's the wedding? You guys are adorable.

What could have been done is a cool build off the one guys suggestion. Like using the non-permanent fixtures he's suggesting as a base. Then taking basic 1 1/2" wide 1/8" flat stock steel or aluminum and bending the ends down to sort of wrap around the boards... Then go to ACE hardware and find some plastic knobs that match the thread pitch and that tightens down the flat stock. Drill holes in the bolts for security, and it's done.

Or here is what I used
541bd18e064d49a7528decfa54926564.jpg

Totally dumb since if you want my board you pull out a dull knife cut the strap and take them. The idea here is to have it LOOK difficult to take. Locks are for honest people and a person who wants what you have bad enough will find a way to take it.

Nylon universal straps: $5
A Tarp Grommet kit: $9
Matching lock set: $12
Strapping some orange plastic boards to your roof in a manor that HAS to look cool while telling another guy he only Mall Crawls based solely on his tire size: priceless (and ironic).

And if you insult my tires in rebuttal I'll keyboard tough guy you so f*cking fast you're head will spin. You'll be up to your eyeballs in memes.
 
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Here's a dark pic of mine. I'll take another in the daylight if I remember.

My stock rails had a rubber insert at the end of them that prevented the rear cross bar from moving back far enough to get the pins to line up with the Maxtrax holes. Maybe some trucks don't have them.

AJRTMGo.jpg
 
I'm using carriage bolts, stainless steel standoffs, and plastic knobs with nut inserts and it doesn't look to janky. If i want to lock it up, i use pistol locks. It works well.

I don't keep boards on roof when it isn't necessary so I didn't want to spend the cash for expensive locks
 

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