May 2016 Meet and Run

[Oneluv13T4R]

Is that what that mod does?

That mod keeps water out of your axles and Diff to keep you from ruining your entire rear end.

 

[SoSoRunner]

That mod keeps water out of your axles and Diff to keep you from ruining your entire rear end.

Do you have that mod done? I would like to do that to my front diff, transfer case, and rear diff if possible.

Also I'm pleased to say my 4runner is back to normal. The front axle seals were covered under warranty, when I first got my 4runner I got both front axles replaced at this Toyota shop by my work and they said they should have replaced the seals when they replaced the axles. They never offered or recommended to replace the seals so they are going to eat the labor to put those in.

So recap of deep water crossing carnage...
-idle bearings (started making a whining noise like a supercharger or power steering buzzing, would get louder with more gas) I couldn't pinpoint which idler bearing it was, most likely the lower one. I ended up getting the gates replacement kit with included 2 upper bearings, 1 lower bearing, and 1 tensioner bearing/ bracket, serp belt.

-starter intermittent functions, I ended up replacing the contacts and plunger in the solenoid.

-front axle bearings, covered under warranty the Toyota shop.

It's good to get all these things replaced anyways as my 4runner has 130,xxx miles. Danny said it best, you gotta pay to play. Cya guys on the next run :tea:

 

[Drunner97]

I sort of got off light in comparison. My axle seal was still good so I just cleaned it and put the axle back in. No more leaks. Alternator wasn't bad, Starter wasn't bad, charging system was too slow though.

99% sure I pinpointed my starting issues to dead batteries. With the stock alternator, 4 gauge wiring, and an 80a isolator my alternator wasn't able to keep up with the 80-85 degree heat making my fridge cycle regularly. All of the starting, stopping, and idling over 2 days just wasn't enough to keep both batteries well charged hence becoming an issue after I got home because my short commute (albeit stop and go) just wasn't enough to get both batteries back up to speed.

So I upgraded my electrical to 1/0 gauge along with a 200a isolator and a 240a alternator. Haven't had a single starting issue since. So while I avoided destroying and replacing stock parts, I found a weak link my system and had to redo the entire damned thing. Not only pay to play, but do it right to begin with. This is the second time I've had to redo something because I took the cheaper/easier way.

 

[Oneluv13T4R]

I sort of got off light in comparison. My axle seal was still good so I just cleaned it and put the axle back in. No more leaks. Alternator wasn't bad, Starter wasn't bad, charging system was too slow though.

99% sure I pinpointed my starting issues to dead batteries. With the stock alternator, 4 gauge wiring, and an 80a isolator my alternator wasn't able to keep up with the 80-85 degree heat making my fridge cycle regularly. All of the starting, stopping, and idling over 2 days just wasn't enough to keep both batteries well charged hence becoming an issue after I got home because my short commute (albeit stop and go) just wasn't enough to get both batteries back up to speed.

So I upgraded my electrical to 1/0 gauge along with a 200a isolator and a 240a alternator. Haven't had a single starting issue since. So while I avoided destroying and replacing stock parts, I found a weak link my system and had to redo the entire damned thing. Not only pay to play, but do it right to begin with. This is the second time I've had to redo something because I took the cheaper/easier way.

Brotha I do the same shit and get pissed off when I have to redo it all!!
Just as you all seen me ripping out all my rock lighting from underneath my rig ..hurried and half assed it and that's what I got!!! Do it all again and cost twice as much...