Metal clanking sound on start up.

Geez... Stealership just quoted me 570 for a new power steering pump. They didn't mention it was signed by Akio Toyoda but for the price I can only assume it is. Called some local shops and found one for 119 with exchange so if that's what it is then I'll go there, otherwise the rebuild kits are about 20 but haven't found one with the bearings only with seals.

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You americans and your magical shops that have 4Runner parts.........
It's brutal finding junkyards and shops with 4runner parts...
 
Geez... Stealership just quoted me 570 for a new power steering pump. They didn't mention it was signed by Akio Toyoda but for the price I can only assume it is. Called some local shops and found one for 119 with exchange so if that's what it is then I'll go there, otherwise the rebuild kits are about 20 but haven't found one with the bearings only with seals.

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Just do yourself a favor and check that reservoir blockage possibility first because that could mimmic a failing pump and you might end up wasting money on a pump.
 
Just do yourself a favor and check that reservoir blockage possibility first because that could mimmic a failing pump and you might end up wasting money on a pump.
Turns out there was some blockage and also a small leak in the rack. Blockage fixed and topped off fluid. Sounds better but still giving me the power steering whine and fighting me in turns a little. I didn't jack up the front and completely get all the air out so I'm hoping that's what the sound is. I'll do this when I get home and update you guys. Thanks again for your help.

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Turns out there was some blockage and also a small leak in the rack. Blockage fixed and topped off fluid. Sounds better but still giving me the power steering whine and fighting me in turns a little. I didn't jack up the front and completely get all the air out so I'm hoping that's what the sound is. I'll do this when I get home and update you guys. Thanks again for your help.

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Hope that fixed it for you.
 
the pump started whining in my truck. at first, i was going to get a good used one from one of the yards i frequent for $30. i decided to do a flush first, as the fluid was dark. i went that route, although messy. filled with fresh ATF and ran it. it took at least an hour or so of bleeding and driving, but the noise went away. that was a few months ago. going to do another flush and fill soon.
 
the pump started whining in my truck. at first, i was going to get a good used one from one of the yards i frequent for $30. i decided to do a flush first, as the fluid was dark. i went that route, although messy. filled with fresh ATF and ran it. it took at least an hour or so of bleeding and driving, but the noise went away. that was a few months ago. going to do another flush and fill soon.
I think I'll do this today for good measure. I know I have a leak in my rack on both sides, do you think the new atf fluid will accelerate my leak because it's probably a lot thinner then what's been in there?

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I think I'll do this today for good measure. I know I have a leak in my rack on both sides, do you think the new atf fluid will accelerate my leak because it's probably a lot thinner then what's been in there?

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maybe. maybe not. but at this point, you want to rule out the pump isn't bad, so do the flush. it's cheaper than replacing the pump, time and monetarily speaking. the rack is already leaking so you know that.

get a good used pump if you need to. reman stuff is crap.
 
I had the seals go in my ps pump, so I put in one from a 97, ran a vac hose to it and it works fine. I have to rebuild a the pump. Hardest part is removing lines to the rack/box. Hit me up if you need a hand with this.
 
I had the seals go in my ps pump, so I put in one from a 97, ran a vac hose to it and it works fine. I have to rebuild a the pump. Hardest part is removing lines to the rack/box. Hit me up if you need a hand with this.
Sounds good bud I may be hitting you up. I'm going to try the flush hopefully tomorrow and we will go from there. If it's the pump in going to try and find a refurb or a decent rebuild kit. Any suggestions on either option?

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Sounds good bud I may be hitting you up. I'm going to try the flush hopefully tomorrow and we will go from there. If it's the pump in going to try and find a refurb or a decent rebuild kit. Any suggestions on either option?

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Keep us posted. I'd like to hear what the end result fix was.
 
Ok guys. Heres where I am now. Steering rack has severe leak in dust boots. Want to get this replaced as soon as I have the cash. In the mean time I have the metal clanking sound again. It's usually right as the engine turns over then goes away. Yesterday it continued and was making a constant clanking sound while the engine was running. It sounded awful so I turned off the engine and turned it back on and it was gone. Is this still my starter? Any help would be appreciated. I planned on getting a new starter first but if this doesn't sound like that then I'll hold off until I know what's wrong.

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Ok guys. Heres where I am now. Steering rack has severe leak in dust boots. Want to get this replaced as soon as I have the cash. In the mean time I have the metal clanking sound again. It's usually right as the engine turns over then goes away. Yesterday it continued and was making a constant clanking sound while the engine was running. It sounded awful so I turned off the engine and turned it back on and it was gone. Is this still my starter? Any help would be appreciated. I planned on getting a new starter first but if this doesn't sound like that then I'll hold off until I know what's wrong.

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When my starter went bad, it was because the starter would get stuck engaged meaning it was still actuating and contacting the flywheel even though the engine was running. And, when I turned off the engine, it was still trying to turn over the engine with the key off. My theory is since the contacts wear unevenly (the larger of the two contacts in the solenoid wears faster than the smaller one) the plunger can get cocked in the there at a slight angle and get stuck.

It sounds like to me yours is heading the way mine was and in the near future yours might get completely stuck and not disengage. If you still plan on driving it like this, keep a pair of channel locks to twist the negative cable off the battery to stop your starter or carry a small open end wrench to loosen the battery cable clamp so you can remove the cable and cut the power to the starter.

If I were you, I'd just pull the starter and replace the contacts and plunger so you don't end up getting stuck somewhere. Better to do the repair at home instead of the side of the road or avoid having to get it towed. Save yourself some money and keep your OEM starter.
 
I found an oem refurb on Amazon for 190. Would this be worth the money or should I just rebuild mine like you mentioned?

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I found an oem refurb on Amazon for 190. Would this be worth the money or should I just rebuild mine like you mentioned?

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Even paying the cost for the contact kits and plunger from the dealer, I still only cost me around $70 to fix my starter. But, if you're luckier than me, once you pull your starter out and get the part numbers off the side, hopefully you can find a contacts and plunger kit on Amazon or Ebay for much less, like around $15-20.

The hardest part is getting the starter out. Once you got the starter out, replacing the contacts and plunger is cake. Just use the video I made and you should be able to do it no problem.

I'd keep your OEM starter if I were you.
 
Even paying the cost for the contact kits and plunger from the dealer, I still only cost me around $70 to fix my starter. But, if you're luckier than me, once you pull your starter out and get the part numbers off the side, hopefully you can find a contacts and plunger kit on Amazon or Ebay for much less, like around $15-20.

The hardest part is getting the starter out. Once you got the starter out, replacing the contacts and plunger is cake. Just use the video I made and you should be able to do it no problem.

I'd keep your OEM starter if I were you.
So I'll need those numbers off the side to find the correct parts? I honestly just searched using the car parts finder in Amazon but I understand that can't be very accurate.

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So I'll need those numbers off the side to find the correct parts? I honestly just searched using the car parts finder in Amazon but I understand that can't be very accurate.

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Yes, I'd reference the part numbers on the side of your starter to get the right contacts and plunger. There will be a Toyota part number and a Denso part number. I used the Denso part number to search for the parts on-line. When I came up empty, I used the Toyota part number to get the contacts and plunger from the dealer.
 
Yes, I'd reference the part numbers on the side of your starter to get the right contacts and plunger. There will be a Toyota part number and a Denso part number. I used the Denso part number to search for the parts on-line. When I came up empty, I used the Toyota part number to get the contacts and plunger from the dealer.
Sounds good I'll pull it today and get those numbers. Thanks for your help. Hopefully I can get this taken care of soon and all I have to worry about is a new steering rack.

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i had this happen to me not to long ago, the front bearing in the starter exploded! It would work fine but on start up made a really bad noise( not all the time).
 

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