might a stupid question...

girliegirl

New member
I live in a northern Canadian climate...which is super cold this time of year.

All was well with my 04 4Runner until the cord came apart for my block heater. The battere went dead. I had some other minor things going on such as a fuse that was gone and some head lights that weren't fixed when the new bulbs were installed.

We put the battery charger on it over night and still it would not start. The lights on the dash came on but just clicking as I tried to start it.

My boyfriend boosted the 4runner in order to get it into the garage. He installed a new battery and it started but it seems to be in a limp mode or a fail safe mode.

We called the dealership here to see how to reset it..but they seem to think this doesn't exsist! I have done some reading and know that it is common for toyotas to enter this mode. Needless to say i'm not placing a lot of faith in them repairing my rig!

Please help...i'm lost without my car!

Thanks so much!
Girliegirl
 
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All that in 2004 Runner? Was it flood damaged or in major accident before you buy it?
 
girliegirl said:

My boyfriend boosted the 4runner in order to get it into the garage. He installed a new battery and it started but it seems to be in a limp mode or a fail safe mode.

Describe how it's running; what makes you think it's in a "safe" mode...
 
It was in a minor accident in November..just front end bumper and lights work. Ran fine after that.

It will not rev over 2000rpm and the check engine light is on.
 
girliegirl said:
I live in a northern Canadian climate...which is super cold this time of year.

All was well with my 04 4Runner until the cord came apart for my block heater. The battere went dead. I had some other minor things going on such as a fuse that was gone and some head lights that weren't fixed when the new bulbs were installed.

We put the battery charger on it over night and still it would not start. The lights on the dash came on but just clicking as I tried to start it.

My boyfriend boosted the 4runner in order to get it into the garage. He installed a new battery and it started but it seems to be in a limp mode or a fail safe mode.

We called the dealership here to see how to reset it..but they seem to think this doesn't exsist! I have done some reading and know that it is common for toyotas to enter this mode. Needless to say i'm not placing a lot of faith in them repairing my rig!

Please help...i'm lost without my car!

Thanks so much!
Girliegirl
Don't know if you noticed it but there is a gal in Africa with similar problems and another earlier post all seem to be related to dead or low batteries. There is definitely something we don't know but should. I'm going to see what I can find out.
 
girliegirl said:
... and the check engine light is on.

The ECU memory is erased when you disconnect the battery. Disconnect and then reconnect it after 2 or 3 minutes. Then restart the vehicle but don't drive it. The light should go off after the initial test period. See how long it takes while idling for the light to come back on. If it doesn't come back on then you have cleared the code and malfunction.

Would it be possible to borrow a scan tool or take it to a shop (not a stealership) to get them to pull the malfunction code that is causing the light to be on? The only way I know to get the code on the OBDII system is with a scan tool (I don't think you can jumper the pins on the connector like on earlier versions.)
 
girliegirl said:
It was in a minor accident in November..just front end bumper and lights work. Ran fine after that.

It will not rev over 2000rpm and the check engine light is on.

My buddy had a similar problem with his 2000 BMW 528i....Try unhooking the negative terminal on the battery for 8 hours (overnight) then starting it back up. Supposed to reset everything.

It sounds similar because after he installed his alarm it went into safe mode and would only drive in 3rd gear and wouldn't rev too high. Worth a shot.
 
The Auto Zone stores around here will lend out an OBDII scan tool. If you ask them nice, they will even read the codes for you.

Kmvreter said:
The ECU memory is erased when you disconnect the battery. Disconnect and then reconnect it after 2 or 3 minutes. Then restart the vehicle but don't drive it. The light should go off after the initial test period. See how long it takes while idling for the light to come back on. If it doesn't come back on then you have cleared the code and malfunction.

Would it be possible to borrow a scan tool or take it to a shop (not a stealership) to get them to pull the malfunction code that is causing the light to be on? The only way I know to get the code on the OBDII system is with a scan tool (I don't think you can jumper the pins on the connector like on earlier versions.)
 
Looks like it happens again and again with different people.
I see the point is, do not jump start 4Runner. If battery is dead, take it home and charge it. Than place it back and start the rig. This is what I learned from this forum. Never happened to me, but if it would I would do what I learned.
 
Sounds like a faulty ECU like some have noted. I'd suggest, the same as the others, remove the ground lead to the battery, for few minutes. Shouldn't be quite as long as 8 hours for the ECU to reset! If it doesn't help, borrow an OBDII reader or get it read at some shop. If no fault codes, might the ECU be wrecked.
Like some have noted, the newer models of cars don't like to jumpstart. I'm not sure if it's true or not, never in my career I've seen a broken ECU in a toyota from jumpstarting... (I have, on the other hand, had numerous problems with BMWs and Benz, with unexplainable strange electric failure which could have lead from jumpstarting. But in these occasions, some of the CAN BUS units failed, I suppose that the high pulse spike that comes along with 'heavy' starting is somewhat dangerous to these systems)
But technically, it is a minor possibility for this to happen.

On a sidenote: If starting a 3l petrol engine, use something larger or equal in size to start it up. Usually the battery system is somewhat alike and can handle the extra load.
(even tho my 3l TD 'runner has been used on the 7,3l powersmoke and 10,4 Caterpillar TDI, but I don't have an ECU to damage.. lol :D )
 
So it wasent a broken computer...we plugged it into the code reader and it was a failure in the throttle motor.

So now he has to replace or Repair it. See If its a wiring issue and do whatever testing needs to be done to see If its a sensor issue? I'm not sure of what i'm talk about so bare with me! Hehe

If anyone has any diagrams or advice in fixing this issue please help!!

Thanks so much for the info guys I really appreciate it.
 
girliegirl said:
So it wasent a broken computer...we plugged it into the code reader and it was a failure in the throttle motor.

So now he has to replace or Repair it. See If its a wiring issue and do whatever testing needs to be done to see If its a sensor issue? I'm not sure of what i'm talk about so bare with me! Hehe

If anyone has any diagrams or advice in fixing this issue please help!!

Thanks so much for the info guys I really appreciate it.

I'd do a thorough throttle body cleaning and plug & unplug the throttle motor before I spent the money. That's my 2cents...
 

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